Carburetor Leak - Other issues

JLN5thAve

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Ok, as most who have seen my Gas Tank thread know, I’m working through problems to get my 88 Fifth running again.

After cleaning the tank out - replacing filters etc, the engine now runs worse, still stalls, and now has fuel coming from the carburetor..

It was not leaking prior to fixing the gas tank issue, and I am confused..

Thoughts?
D5ADADDD-A8DC-4D86-A96E-C962F2D6A9DA.jpeg
 

4speedjim

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Pressure regulator not shutting pump off? Return line routed correct? Isnt 88 tbi?
 

JLN5thAve

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I will check on the regulator and the return line - I am also looking into vacuum/emissions issues.

TBI wasn't a thing fully until the K-line cars - Imperial and such that hit the market at the end of the M-Body of 1989-1990. I have people suggesting I dump the carb and go to EFI - but that costs more than just replacing the entire carb with a reman.
 

4speedjim

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Agreed. Well if carb'ed from factory you wont have a high 32 psi? pressure elec fuel pump in the tank. I thought possibly you did, causing too much fuel pressure and pushing gas out of the carb and fittings. I wouldn't convert to efi personally. The trucks went to tbi in 88. I couldn't remember if the Ms changed at that time. That's what made me wonder.
 

JLN5thAve

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I see what you mean - no it is carb'd from the factory, with the mechanical fuel pump on the block. I do know that the Electronic Fuel Control system on these can be wacky - and am worried about it as well. The car has no more emissions components, smog pump, cat's, all gone - so that could also contribute.

Removed the smog pump when it started burning out belts, and the cats came off when the exhaust fell off in 2008 - couldnt afford to replace with factory style 3 cat exhaust, and went with straight exhaust with bends enough for back pressure.
 

rcmaniac791

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Can you pinpoint exactly where the leak is coming from on the carb? I'm wondering if because of the improved flow to the carb that maybe the float sunk, or may have a pinhole in it. Did the car sit at all before you started working on it? Today's crappy gas can reek havoc on carburetors and cause all kinds of issues. You can also remove the top half of the carb without removing the whole thing from the car to inspect the float level with fuel still in the bowl. Be aware that you'll probably tear the gasket doing this. Oh, that may also be the issue is the gasket.
 

JLN5thAve

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Can you pinpoint exactly where the leak is coming from on the carb? I'm wondering if because of the improved flow to the carb that maybe the float sunk, or may have a pinhole in it. Did the car sit at all before you started working on it? Today's crappy gas can reek havoc on carburetors and cause all kinds of issues. You can also remove the top half of the carb without removing the whole thing from the car to inspect the float level with fuel still in the bowl. Be aware that you'll probably tear the gasket doing this. Oh, that may also be the issue is the gasket.

Haven’t been able to pinpoint it yet - however I will.. the car sat for ten years - hence having to flush the tank and get deeper into it.

Sounds like either way I’ll need a carb rebuild kit - been reading up about floats, and I’ll have to look at it on mine. It comes out right around the throttle assembly above those wires on the right side in the pic on the original post. So it may be the float - perhaps stuck from the crud that WAS in the system.

And yes the M body was carbureted till it was discontinued in 89
 
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BudW

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As far as I know, no one makes a bolt-on 2-bbl Fuel Injection system, yet (or I would purchase a pair, very quickly).

I doubt too much fuel pressure is an issue, especially if you have the 3-way fuel filter installed on car (which looks like this, and is located under the alternator).
pg3499.jpg

The hoses are 5/16” with a 1/4” vapor return hose – which helps a lot with vapor-lock problems.

Your carburetor is a Holley 6280 (computer controlled) model number R40276 (based off of factory part number sticker of 4324647, as shown).
C962F2D6A9DA.jpg


I suspect your plastic float has “sunk” or has absorbed fuel (can no longer stay above the fuel) or you have some trash holding the needle & seat open.

What I would do first, is get a pair of line wrenches (ONLY) and remove the fuel line (yellow arrow) from the brass seat (white arrow) until disengaged. Line wrenches look like this:
Line_wrenches.jpg

If you use open end wrenches on the fuel lines, you will bugger up the fittings (that is not an "if" but a "will").
Note: you will have fuel run out of carburetor seat as well as out of fuel line. There is nothing you can do about either. The fuel will evaporate away – so no smoking or creating sparks, etc., for a while.

Next, remove the seat (should be brass, but might be steel) - the white arrow. Now you can use an end wrench, if wanted. Unscrew the seat all of the way and remove from car. The needle should be built into a cage so it can’t escape. You can use a few different mediums to clean the needle & seat (carburetor cleaner, gasoline, water, etc.). I do advise against using other chemical cleaners though.

With needle/seat inverted so the line fitting is downwards, you should be able to pour a bit of water onto the needle and it should not leak out through the line fitting. If it does, keep cleaning. If it fails again, get a carburetor kit.

If it does hold water, then dry it the best you can, reinstall it with its gasket (tightening the line last), and try to get engine to run again.
If you still see fuel leaking – then you got a bad float (aka: time for an overhaul).

Note: this has nothing to do with your fuel leak, but might with drivability concern. I made a circle (rose color) of either a broken vacuum line or a broken vacuum cap - that needs to be fixed.
BudW
 

JLN5thAve

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That is a fantastic post BudW and I am thinking along those lines as well.. I will go through those steps - and see what I can accomplish.

I have found a way to check the tow on the floats, but that requires removing the carb - so won’t till I have a kit. Holly has a lot of videos regarding their carbs and adjustments - however not one for the 6280 floats.. I have found tear downs of the 2280 on YouTube and it’s the same - just not a feedback carb like this.

I will work through this and get back with results..

As for the vacuum cap or line missing - that has me puzzled as well.. I’ve looked through the routing diagram in my Hayes manual and i think I’m missing an entire line.. will hunt it down and see what it is.
 

JLN5thAve

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I've seen that a dual plane would work but I am not too familiar with that - however just converting straight over is not really that great anyway.. With the rest of the EFCS being set up for an 'emissions friendly' 2bbl feedback carb, I dont really think it would be cheaper.. I hadnt thought about all of the extra garbage on the car..

Much different than the '73 Regal I played with 12-13 years ago... That thing didnt have digital or electronic much of anything.. Bolt and fly - not on the Fifth though.. lol
 

4speedjim

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EFI Okaaay, TBI doesn't play well with carb type dual planes that Ive seen. I don't know what you find in a TBI manifold, but I suspect its open. MPFI and variable runners like the '09+ Hemi manage quite nicely. But with the power of a calculator, TBI doesn't. I thought it might be cam overlap feeding back into the intake. It's not. It has to do with the physical dual plane. Maybe it affects flow, signal or area under the bottom of TB? I imagine things. Under low rpm they might not have the volume of air flow TB's needs? IDK. To make a long story short.
Most times a single plane is installed on poor performing TBI swaps after hours or days of hair pulling and that's the magic bullet.
 

JLN5thAve

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Additional work - still haven’t found the carb leak yet - hoping to get it apart Saturday-

New concern however is -
E4A22EBF-B2B2-4379-B095-FE7A16A1D3F2.jpeg
 
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