De-lean burning

Monkeyed

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
701
Reaction score
76
Location
West MI
Before. Basic lean burn, nothing fancy.


IMAG0172.jpg

First most obvious step, removed the air cleaner and computer, along with a bunch of vacuum lines.
IMAG0177.jpg

Carb off, holes stuffed with a rag to keep varmints and wayward nuts and bolts out. Also got rid of the old air pump hoses.
IMAG0180.jpg

This is the intended donor intake.
IMAG0182.jpg


Again, not getting fancy, my understanding is I can run a Pertronix Ignitor with a vacuum advanced distributor and a stock coil?
 

SirRalliart

Active Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2012
Messages
39
Reaction score
13
Location
Richmond, TX
I'm doing the exact same thing this week. It's taking longer as I'm painting parts as they come off.

I went with: Weiand Action+ Intake, Street Demon 625cfm Carb, Rev-n-nator ECU, Firecore Billet distributor, matched coil and NGK spark plugs.

Now, if I can just get that old intake manifold off! Any ideas how to break that 38-year-old adhesive?
 

Monkeyed

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
701
Reaction score
76
Location
West MI
What alternator are u Running?
Right now, the stock one, I'm not in the least opposed to upgrading though.

I'm doing the exact same thing this week. It's taking longer as I'm painting parts as they come off.

I went with: Weiand Action+ Intake, Street Demon 625cfm Carb, Rev-n-nator ECU, Firecore Billet distributor, matched coil and NGK spark plugs.

Now, if I can just get that old intake manifold off! Any ideas how to break that 38-year-old adhesive?
I was looking at the Street Demon as well. I'm not as concerned about mismatching parts as I am simplicity and price.

As for breaking the old one loose, maybe a pry-bar and a 2x4?
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
A big hammer tap the edges. Its real heavy you may need a second set of hands to lift it up.
I second that motion.

Generally the "light tapping with a heavy hammer" is all it takes.
Do not pry on it, or YOU WILL BREAK THINGS!

You might need to remove a valve cover for it to come all of the way off. The Right side is much easier to do, because of the hidden bolt under the brake booster.

Use a good gasket set, the two end rail gaskets have a tendency to come loose and leak oil at either end, of not installed correctly.
Might not even be a bad idea to have a second pair of hands when installing it (without anything attached to intake, that is).
 

SirRalliart

Active Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2012
Messages
39
Reaction score
13
Location
Richmond, TX
Well, it helps if I take ALL the damn bolts out! That's what I get for spreading the job out over a few days. I must have had ADD that day since I left 2 bolts in.

Still painting parts. Still trying to figure out the best place to put the ECU.
 

Jack Meoff

Mopar Maniac
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
10,747
Reaction score
1,200
Location
Hogtown, Ontario
Well, it helps if I take ALL the damn bolts out! That's what I get for spreading the job out over a few days. I must have had ADD that day since I left 2 bolts in.

Still painting parts. Still trying to figure out the best place to put the ECU.

When I finally do mine I'm leaving the computer box on the air cleaner and putting my ECU in it. That should get some head scratching going on. :D
 

Monkeyed

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
701
Reaction score
76
Location
West MI
Do not pry on it, or YOU WILL BREAK THINGS!

Well yeah, if there are still 2 bolts attached. Don't FORCE it if it isn't budging, I usually just get the end of the bar wedged under it and twist. Never broken anything yet. If it's stubborn I find a tab and GENTLY pry on it, once it gives it's easy to pull off by hand.
 

Monkeyed

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
701
Reaction score
76
Location
West MI
Cleared away more of the wires and lines

IMAG0184.jpg

Not too bad once the clutter is gone
IMAG0185.jpg

The biggest pain will be the A/C compressor, but even that isn't a big deal.
IMAG0186.jpg

Wife's at work and the rest of my family's at my parent's lake house (cottage) this weekend, have to watch my boys so if I get 5 uninterrupted minutes over the next 3 days I'll consider myself lucky.
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
When I finally do mine I'm leaving the computer box on the air cleaner and putting my ECU in it. That should get some head scratching going on. :D
On my 5th Ave big block change over, I have very specific goals for the car. One of which is to leave the lean burn computer on the air cleaner, but it will be an almost empty shell, with an orange ICU (Ignition Control Unit) (One need to make sure it is grounded!) inside with plug-in coming up from bottom.

That way the orange ICU won’t be visible, the wiring harness will be visible and has outward appearance of being a 318 with Lean Burn (at first and possibly second glance).

If I can afford a 4 bbl fuel injection setup, I will still leave an empty shell on air cleaner, unless that location needs used for something else.

BudW
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
Monkeyed,
I would recommend changing your heater hoses while you are at it.
To me, they look like a leak just waiting for you to drive more than 5 miles from home and/or a parts store, to burst.

This might be a great time to use some engine degreaser then power wash the engine – maybe (just keep from spraying water down intake holes).

Now I have a question for you:
How would you rate the cars cold drivability (on scale of 1-10)?

BuidW
 

Jack Meoff

Mopar Maniac
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
10,747
Reaction score
1,200
Location
Hogtown, Ontario
I thought about that, but I really want to go as simplistic as possible.

I'd do the same myself.
But we have random checks up here.
It doesn't have to do emissions tests but I've heard of them pulling old cars over to make sure that all the original stuff is there so that would make for a good disguise.
 

Justwondering

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
3,602
Reaction score
1,003
Location
North Texas
and yet they want you driving new cars cause they are 'better' for the environment all the while whining about gas guzzling old cars.
No consideration to the fact that these 'better' new cars use more plastic (petroleum), just as much tires (petroleum), and gas consumption is reduced only about 30% on average.
They aren't better ... just hid the petroleum usage better.
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
The above reasons are all valid and worth making, but I want to make another point (more valid to me).
Today’s cars (and trucks) cost as much as my house does. All of the vehicles in my fleet are paid for and plans are to keep driving them until the wheels fall off. If anyone wants me driving a new car, then I’d gladly drive it after they pay for it - for I will not take out a second mortgage to get one.

Another thing is Safety. My ‘70's and ‘80's cars might not have air bags or other safety related components - but both cars have 30 MPH bumper shocks on them (wife’s ‘02 Town and Country Minivan only has thin flimsy plastic (7½ MPH) bumpers on it).
The rear bumper (behind the plastic cover) on her van weights about 4 or 5 pounds (less than a 6-pack).
 

Jack Meoff

Mopar Maniac
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
10,747
Reaction score
1,200
Location
Hogtown, Ontario
The above reasons are all valid and worth making, but I want to make another point (more valid to me).
Today’s cars (and trucks) cost as much as my house does. All of the vehicles in my fleet are paid for and plans are to keep driving them until the wheels fall off. If anyone wants me driving a new car, then I’d gladly drive it after they pay for it - for I will not take out a second mortgage to get one.

Another thing is Safety. My ‘70's and ‘80's cars might not have air bags or other safety related components - but both cars have 30 MPH bumper shocks on them (wife’s ‘02 Town and Country Minivan only has thin flimsy plastic (7½ MPH) bumpers on it).
The rear bumper (behind the plastic cover) on her van weights about 4 or 5 pounds (less than a 6-pack).

Absolutely.
New cars are made to be generally safe but also made to be pretty much written off if you take a good hit.

Whereas our cars are actually fixable without costing insane amounts of money to do it. A guy who works next door to me just had to replace his side view mirror. Without labor the cost of the mirror alone was $2500!!!
 

Justwondering

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
3,602
Reaction score
1,003
Location
North Texas
when I was at picknpull last year, looking for a front header panel, left qtr panal, and left headlight assembly.. I got the entire thing (including both light assemblies and grill AND a passenger front seat) for $260
That was their full price, no coupon weekday rate.
Granted it was used, but as Capn said .. parts were available.
I don't know for how much longer, but I'll take that over the $600 a month car payment and the $300 month insurance payment anyday.
 
Back
Top