Dipstick showing water in oil 225

SixBanger

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Since short time, the dipstick and shows water in oil. So I have refreshed oil last week. Hoped it goes away. Oil was 10k+ old (mineral).
Headgasket replaced last Juni. (9k km ago)
No extensive oil consumption for this old fashion 225 slant hulk torque machine. Or and very slight coolant drop.

Re-tighten only head bolts?

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SixBanger

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Re torqued the head bolts. All bolts doesn't need retorque. So maybe a leak path from coolant channel to pushrod galley, so head gasket gone? Gasket from Felpro.
Most drives are work-home 12 miles. But this weather could give more condense when cooling down.
 

Aspen500

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It looks like condensation to me in the photo from what I can see. Going too long on oil changes, short trips of less than 10 miles, and cold weather make the condensation worse. Coolant in the oil is more yellowish looking where condensation is basically white. We see that at work all the time this time of year (October through April).
 

AJ/FormS

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I agree with Aspen, the engine is not getting up to temp, or not at full temp long enough, and or the crankcase ventilation system may not be up to the task, or too much pollution equipment has been removed or is no longer working.
But mostly the engine just needs heat.

I live in Canada, and my slanty has a hard time getting up to temp as well. I install a 195stat, and in the coldest months I block the rad with cardboard, sometimes partway, sometimes all the way. I run that 195 4-seasons.
Additionally I preheat the intake air, by removing the fresh-air hose.
Additionally, I plug it in every night.
The PCV and heat-riser systems needs to be working.
And, very important, the choke system must come all the way off.
Some winters, I have even taken the mechanical fan off.
Whatever it takes.
 

Aspen500

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Many moons ago, I had a '76 Dodge Colt (don't ask.......) and we had an unusually cold winter. That little 1.6L 3 speed auto couldn't make any heat. I had the entire front of the car blocked off to keep cold air from blowing through and even made a shroud to go under the car all the way to the back of the engine compartment, took the fan blade off and still,,,,,,temp gauge would barely get above the "C". I could drive down the freeway for 10 miles, and that car ran 4,000 rpm at 55 mph (the speed limit at the time), still just above "C". Thermostat never even opened. As for the occupants, a '71 Super Beetle made more heat inside. Needless to say, that was the first AND LAST winter I owned that car.:eek:
 

AJ/FormS

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Sounds like my 85 Hyundai-Pony. Without the fan in there, I had the entire engine blanketed. And got just enough heat to defrost the windows at up to 50/55. I had to wear a full snomobile suit in there. I was so poor, I had no other choice. 30 minutes to work, and 30 minutes home.
 

Oldiron440

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I had a 68 bug that I did the baja bug thing to and drove it year round. As if it wasn't cold enough driving it the only way it would run on the hyway was to put one heater hose on the air cleaner. It was the only car I've ever kept sleeping bags in. :)
 

BudW

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The engine oil will need to be changed a lot more often – at least until signs of condensation goes away.

When you drain the oil, try to drain it into a clear container. If you are getting coolant into the engine oil. There will be a puddle of it on bottom of container with the engine oil on top.
Also, when you drain the oil, you will see the water/coolant drain out first, then the engine oil.

A working PCV valve, crankcase vent, working heat riser, a not-too-cold thermostat as well as longer trips can help a lot. If you are driving 12 miles on at least one leg of your trip to/from work, then that shouldn’t be the problem. I recommend people to at least drive 8 miles (13km) on at least one leg of their daily drive – but if thermostat is too cold, that won’t work.

I know very little about mineral oil so that might be a possible issue (not sure, me shrugs).
The main reason to use petroleum-based oil is it and gasoline comes from same source (crude oil). I know those who race with methanol for fuel, use castor oil for engine oil (not Castrol oil company, but oil from the castor bean) – because the oil and fuel will mix if two come together and not create sludge or a mess.
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Head gaskets can blow and leak coolant into the cylinders, leak coolant into oil or leak compression into other cylinders. Head bolts do not normally loosen up on Chrysler engines made in that time – so re-tightening them generally won’t help.

Also, smell the cap and see if it has a “coolant” smell to it. Has coolant level been dropping in radiator?

If coolant loss hasn’t been noticed, then I doubt it is coolant.
If coolant is getting into oil, then a leaking gasket, cracked block (or head) or porous block casting (or head casting) could be at fault.
BudW
 
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