Diving in.

Knothead

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando
Hey everybody,
So I bought this 1985 5th Ave. the other day. It seems to be in decent shape overall, with a few exceptions. I finally got the time to give it a once-over and I'm seeing some issues. There seems to be a few aftermarket parts along with some shady wrenching. Would any of you more knowledgeable people mind taking a look at some photos and let me know what I need to do to make this car better?

Things I've found so far:

The source of my massive oil leak is the Passenger side valve cover gasket. Picked up a set from the parts store, will install on Monday.

There are aftermarket heads, intake manifold, and carbuerator. All Edelbrock. Cannot vouch for the workmanship of the installer or much else really. Are these helping me, or hurting me. Probably hurting. But so shiny!!

The transmission shifts smoothly, but gets in third gear as fast as it can and stays there. I noticed the kickdown linkage is not connected and I'm pretty sure that has to to with the aftermarket parts. Oh boy.

The a/c doesn't work. The heater equally doesn't work. The heater hoses have been removed. Not a huge deal to me at this time. Until it is.

Looks like I'm missing a belt??

No sign of a PCV system, but maybe I'm missing something.

There is a lot more, but I will go ahead and post the pics up and let you guys tell me what you see. Thanks in advance.
 

Knothead

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando
0429171926.jpg
0429171925.jpg
0429171924.jpg
0429171926.jpg
0429171925.jpg
0429171924.jpg
0429171923a.jpg
0429171923.jpg
0426171956a.jpg
0426171956.jpg
0426171955.jpg
 

Knothead

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando
If I'm missing anything, or you guys need to see things from a different angle, let me know and I'll try to get a better shot. Thanks.
 

Joe12459

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
961
Reaction score
175
Location
Catskill Mountains, NY
Sweet ride! The Edelbrock parts are probably not hurting, as long as the cam, intake and torque converter are at least somewhat matched, and as long as your state emissions inspection doesn't have an issue with that type of equipment, or more particularly the missing emissions stuff. The TV linkage absolutely has to be connected, or you'll destroy your tranny very quickly. Edelbrock makes the right throttle lever adapters for the linkage. I'm sure somebody on here will provide some pics of an all factory car, for reference. The truth is, if you're not concerned with being all factory correct, and it runs well, I would just fix the obvious issues and enjoy the ride.
 

Knothead

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando
Sweet ride! The Edelbrock parts are probably not hurting, as long as the cam, intake and torque converter are at least somewhat matched, and as long as your state emissions inspection doesn't have an issue with that type of equipment, or more particularly the missing emissions stuff. The TV linkage absolutely has to be connected, or you'll destroy your tranny very quickly. Edelbrock makes the right throttle lever adapters for the linkage. I'm sure somebody on here will provide some pics of an all factory car, for reference. The truth is, if you're not concerned with being all factory correct, and it runs well, I would just fix the obvious issues and enjoy the ride.
Thanks for the reply. I'm not concerned about having the car factory correct, but would like to have a nice, reliable daily driver.
 

slant6billy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2011
Messages
2,971
Reaction score
694
Second to Joe's comment. You need to inspect the trans pressure rod assembly. You are missing the top rod, but the pivot is there from what I see. There is a down rod to the lower pivot and then the third link to the transmission. Your Edelbrock carb has the mopar adapter. So what you want to do is get a proper throttle cable clevis pin. It should have the throttle cable on one side and a bigger game piece nub for the trans kick rod I'll take some pics and show you what I mean. The thing is the throttle cable will bind if the trans rod is connected incorrectly. I'll show you what I mean as I fire up the phone. What carb is that - 1406? 600 cfm that is? My 750 edlebrock has all the added pieces like electric choke and mopare add ons, but is too big for the average 318
 

Knothead

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando
Second to Joe's comment. You need to inspect the trans pressure rod assembly. You are missing the top rod, but the pivot is there from what I see. There is a down rod to the lower pivot and then the third link to the transmission. Your Edelbrock carb has the mopar adapter. So what you want to do is get a proper throttle cable clevis pin. It should have the throttle cable on one side and a bigger game piece nub for the trans kick rod I'll take some pics and show you what I mean. The thing is the throttle cable will bind if the trans rod is connected incorrectly. I'll show you what I mean as I fire up the phone. What carb is that - 1406? 600 cfm that is? My 750 edlebrock has all the added pieces like electric choke and mopare add ons, but is too big for the average 318
Thanks for the heads up. Any pics you could give me would really help me understand how this thing is supposed to go together. I really have no clue which carb it is, but if you know of a way for me to find out, I'll go take a look.
 

slant6billy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2011
Messages
2,971
Reaction score
694
Ok phone almost died, but here ya go.....
IMG_0516.JPG

The back of the top pressure trans arm. some use that hole for a spring/ tension spring mount point.
IMG_0515.JPG
There is the game piece adapter - although I just alled it that so don't go using it as the official term. Note the added stop screw I added ( Redneck firm shift fix).
IMG_0514.JPG

I'm pointing to the throttle cable clevis point. So the cable and trans rod are on the same pivot point, just on opposite sides of the throttle arm . you may need to bend the arm (zigzag), since it has moved the point further outward towards the drivers side fender
IMG_0513.JPG
IMG_0512.JPG

That is the stamping for the carb size- mine is a 750 "1407" and the e choke kit to the left- makes it more driveable
IMG_0510.JPG
IMG_0511.JPG
 

Knothead

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando
Ok phone almost died, but here ya go.....
View attachment 19878
The back of the top pressure trans arm. some use that hole for a spring/ tension spring mount point.
View attachment 19879 There is the game piece adapter - although I just alled it that so don't go using it as the official term. Note the added stop screw I added ( Redneck firm shift fix).
View attachment 19880
I'm pointing to the throttle cable clevis point. So the cable and trans rod are on the same pivot point, just on opposite sides of the throttle arm . you may need to bend the arm (zigzag), since it has moved the point further outward towards the drivers side fender
View attachment 19881 View attachment 19882
That is the stamping for the carb size- mine is a 750 "1407" and the e choke kit to the left- makes it more driveable
View attachment 19883 View attachment 19884
Thanks for taking the time to put this together for me and for the good info. I have to go in to work, but will report back on which carb I have when I get back home.
 

slant6billy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2011
Messages
2,971
Reaction score
694
Thanks for taking the time to put this together for me and for the good info. I have to go in to work, but will report back on which carb I have when I get back home.
No problem Glad to help. FYI - if you can score an aftermarket trans pressure cable from Mancini, I have heard it is one and done w/o any issues afterwards. They ain't too cheap.
But they take guess work out.
 

Aspen500

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
7,066
Reaction score
2,792
Location
Rib Mountain, WI
I second the throttle valve (aka "kick down") cable deal. Either from Mancini or Bouchillon. Solves MANY problems of finding the right parts and getting them to work, especially with a modified car. Like Slant 6 said, they aren't cheap but are worth it.
This is it. Bouchillon or Mancini, same kit, same price.
BPE TorqueFlite Kickdown Cable Kit - Bouchillon Performance Engineering

You have no PCV system, just a pair of breather caps. There should be a port on the carb for the PCV hose. You'll need to get a PCV valve grommet for the valve cover also. If those are twist in caps, you can also use a Ford style cap that takes a grommet and valve, that twists in the same spot.

Like this: Crankcase Breather Cap
 
Last edited:

Knothead

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando

jasperjacko

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2011
Messages
1,671
Reaction score
251
For what it's worth, That looks like an air gap knock off intake, heads might be pro comps ? Someone had more money than skills for sure, but you have some good stuff to work with and once sorted out should be a good setup. Wish you were nearby, i'd help you with some tuning. Looks like the hose on the front of the carb should be for pvc. Water neck on manifold is backwards for some reason.
 

Knothead

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando
For what it's worth, That looks like an air gap knock off intake, heads might be pro comps ? Someone had more money than skills for sure, but you have some good stuff to work with and once sorted out should be a good setup. Wish you were nearby, i'd help you with some tuning. Looks like the hose on the front of the carb should be for pvc. Water neck on manifold is backwards for some reason.
I was told by the previous owner that the carb, intake, and heads were all Edelbrock. The heads say Performer RPM, I haven't looked for any markings on the intake. I plan to go over it more thoroughly tomorrow when I do the valve cover gaskets. Thanks for your input, and I too wish I was closer so you could put eyes on this thing.
 

Knothead

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando
0501171430.jpg
Well, I found my oil leak.
0501171517.jpg
Then while doing the driver side, I found this pushrod shoved through the rocker arm. I ordered a new rocker arm and a new pushrod. Any ideas what would cause this to happen? Should I be concerned about anything else?
 

slant6billy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2011
Messages
2,971
Reaction score
694
600 cfm. Now you got some homework to do. What ignition is it running? Mopar 4/5 wire box? I don't see the vacuum advance port being used. It is the port by that 1406 stamp. Is you distributor a vacuum advance? Push rod through the rocker? I'm worried about No3 intake cam lobe. And this runs / idles ok? You should have a noticeable miss at No3 Hydr lifter for No3 is suspect.
 

Knothead

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando
600 cfm. Now you got some homework to do. What ignition is it running? Mopar 4/5 wire box? I don't see the vacuum advance port being used. It is the port by that 1406 stamp. Is you distributor a vacuum advance? Push rod through the rocker? I'm worried about No3 intake cam lobe. And this runs / idles ok? You should have a noticeable miss at No3 Hydr lifter for No3 is suspect.
The distributor does not have a vacuum advance. I don't know what a mopar 4/5 wire box is, but I don't think I have one. It seems to be a straight forward ignition system, coil, solid state distributor, wires, etc. It does not idle very smoothly, and now I know why. Do you think the lifter on that cylinder has malfunctioned and caused this damage? It is my belief that the pushrod got stuck in the rocker arm when it penetrated and hasn't touched the lifter in quite a while. I could not get the pushrod to move at all in either direction. It seems lodged in the rocker.
 
Back
Top