I can understand why drag racers using an electric pump (which is not that great for street usage).
Just spending $200 (or so) more for a water pump – that I don’t see any advantage over stock design.
Alot of cars that are street strip run the higher end ele pumps that are $325 give or take are flawless under any condition and are consistent in cooling. One added plus is unlike when shutting down a oem setup that then lets the motor build heat/boil fuel ect, if you sit there no more then three minutes with the ele fans and pump on (engine off) your down to 120 degrees which is hardly rapid cooling. Done right you can put the proper sensors in and it will do it all for you like a modern car that the fan runs when shut down. It is also quicker to build heat in a motor when needed since many run a modified T state (the three little bypass holes) that a manual pump would still flow some on a cold start.
I stopped using cheap parts store china units years ago because I dont like changing a pump one time let alone 2-3 times and scuffing parts along the way.
I use several of the older B cool pumps, alot like the flow cooler units but both now use a billet impeller vs a modified oem unit like in the pick below.
The edelbrock and the PRW are the same pump and from as much as I could tell the same guts, I have both, the edelbrock didnt last long the prw is going on three years of use and is a great option if you dont run a heater so you dont have the jacked up looking looped hose.
There are now several knockoff ele pumps for approx 150$ if you goggle the ford pn or chevy it seems many have had no issues with the lower cost ele pumps that you can day in day out.
I used to have one of the belt drive units on my bracket car, as posted track only, 80-s tech but there purpose was to run the pump with the motor off as well while in between runs.