Electric Fuel Pump Mounting

[Bruceynz]

Hi Guys,

I have to install an electric fuel pump to run the magnum, I have a Red holley sitting in my parts bin I am going to use, where have you guys mounted then in the past? The instructions say it should be mounted below the lowest point in the tank. Anyone have any photos of their installs?

PUMP MOUNTING AND INSTALLATION: The best location for mounting any electric fuel pump is the rear of the vehicle. The inlet and outlet of the pump must be mounted below the lowest point of the tank. This is necessary to allow for an adequate fuel supply. The pump is designed to push fuel and not designed to suck fuel out of the tank. It needs to be gravity-fed or if it’s pulling from the top of the tank, it needs to develop a siphon feed to the pump. The pump should be mounted on the chassis, in a vertical position with the pump motor on top. Avoid exposure of the pump and fuel lines to moving parts and to any hot areas, such as the exhaust manifold. The pump should not be mounted in a closed area, such as the vehicle’s trunk. Follow the steps below for mounting the pump. WARNING! THE PUMP MUST BE LOCATED SO THAT INTERFERENCE BETWEEN THE VEHICLE’S BODY AND ITS CHASSIS MOVEMENT IS AVOIDED. THE PUMP AND ITS CONNECTING HOSES MUST NOT BE SUBJECTED TO LOW GROUND CLEARANCE, WHERE ANY FLYING ROCKS OR ROAD DEBRIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE. FAILURE TO AVOID THESE HAZARDS WILL LEAD TO PUMP DAMAGE, WHICH COULD RESULT IN FIRE, PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS INJURY, AND/OR DEATH.

 

[Aspen500]

Just as it says. As close as you can get to being below the lowest point of the tank and as close to the tank as physically possible. A good idea to use rubber isolation mounts so the pump noise isn't transmitted right into the car body. To draw fuel from the stock pickup, you need more or less a siphon effect to feed the pump. Ideally the fuel would come from a sump on the bottom of the tank but that's a whole other project. In a perfect world, you would mount the pump inside the tank and solve both the feed and noise problems.

 

[Bruceynz]

As you can see its pretty busy under my J,

 

[BudW]

That is one nice looking setup!


I don’t have a god answer for frame mounted fuel pump location – for the muffler/exhaust is right in the way.

I’m really thinking about going with a 4-bbl appearing fuel injection setup, myself.
If I do bite that bullet and go with that method, I do have plans on installing a new fuel tank and get the new tank modified to use with an in-tank pump.

Most likely I will be using this setup (if converting to F.I., that is) Aeromotive Phantom 340 Stealth EFI Pump in '64 B-body tank? | Moparts Question and Answer | Moparts Forums
Using a phantom pump system (or equivalent).

This person notched the tank out so pump will not stick above the tank. It will take a bit of welding and metal working – but I think would be best for my situation.

If you are planning on keeping the 4-bbl - a frame mounted pump might be easiest.
Just where – though.
BudW

Edit: added picture.

 

[kkritsilas]

I have been looking at aftermarket fuel injection systems for a while (started looking at them when we put an EZ-EFI on a small block Chevy in a '51 Mercury sedan). It went OK, but not the cleanest installation, with a lot of fiddling around with the electric fuel pump and the return line. His previously carb'd set up didn't have a provision for a fuel return line).

I have been looking long and hard at the FiTech systems, and their add-on Fuel Commander setup. It all fits under the hood, not near the tank. It basically takes the output of the mechanical fuel pump, puts it into a little sump, and then uses an electrical booster pump to bring it to 53 psi. No need to plumb back the return line, no messing with the tank. It isn't cheap, but not too bad either. My only issue, aside from money, is that I want their system that also handles the ignition (it actually requires the use of a distributor without mechanical or vacuum advance (hello ESC distributor in our J bodies)m but that system is supposed to be used on engines with at least 200 HP, and my 318 4BBL engines are only rated at 160. I don't want the lower level FiTech, as it doesn't control the ignition. I suppose I will have to wait for that until I can rebuild the 318s with higher compression, a better cam, and a proper dual exhaust.

 

[80mirada]

Call them and ask if it is 200hp gross or net. 165 up net is like 185 -195hp gross, depending on who's numbers and equations you go by.

 

[BudW]

I don’t think a fuel injection setup matters a lick, if engine is under (or even WAY WAY under) the rated horsepower. Fuel injectors can only flow a maximum of so much – which is what the restriction is (ie: the top limit is).

I see absolutely no reason why a person couldn’t put a pair of 4-bbl appearing F.I. units on a stock /6 – one wanted to (a bit of overkill, though).

The problem is when you want to upgrade your engine from say 200 HP to say 400 HP - then your existing F.I. system won’t handle it (the needed amount of fuel volume, that is) - so the lower HP system was wasted - if not able find a buyer for it.


If a person wanted to work to make it fit, I don’t see a reason why the 200 HP F.I. system wouldn’t work fine on a 2 cylinder lawn mower.

As far as that goes, the 200 HP system would work fine on a 1,000 HP Hemi – just as long as you never took it above idle (above that, it would bog down due to a lack of sufficient fuel).


I’m waiting for:
A. a system that will bolt to a 2-bbl port and give F.I. (and ignition timing) without much to change over. It seams if you have a 2-bbl, you are left in the cold.
Or B, the popular 4-bbl appearing F.I setups to come down in price to a more attractive figure (which is happening).
BudW

 

[kkritsilas]

When I wrote to FiTech, they said that the fuel injection computer could not make the fuel injector pulses short enough to work properly on a car with less than 200 HP. I guess that is the company line, but they do stick to itm so if I were to try it, and it didn't work out, I am on my own.

 

[slant6billy]

Joe's Hemi Mirada and his son's Mirada have e pumps nicely done. As for fuel injection on a slant, I always wondered if the GM based unit from the 3.4 V6 could work like from a inboard boat motor set up.

 

[Leizurtime]

I Macgyvered a bracket to the fuel tank strap on the passenger side. I utilized two Simpson strong ties, short phillips head bolts, nuts, and locking washers I bought from the Home Depot. The placement seemed optimal as I was using a Mr. Gasket pump that required I mount it below the tank and within one foot of it. I been trying to find a pic of the bracket, but I must have deleted it. I still have the bracket somewhere. I wound up abandoning the upgrade because the car ran too lean and occasionally would stall due to low fuel pressure. I have a theory though, that maybe the fuel return line was the culprit. Perhaps I should have integrated a pressure regulator, that may have solved the problem. I decided to opt for the more reliable analog mechanical system. I used a painless fuel pump relay and oil pressure switch for safety purposes.

 

[Bruceynz]

SNAP!! I am going to do the same thing! been under the car over the weekend working out, I will weld up a bracket, made half the bracket already! Will take pics when done!

 

[Leizurtime]

Okay, just be careful about welding near gas tanks, bad things can happen. Under normal circumstances a professional would say that the tank should be drained and all the excess vapors be given time to evaporate. I do suggest the oil pressure switch, this I do have a pic of. God forbid you are in a wreck and the fuel still pumps creating a very unsafe conditon.

 

[Bruceynz]

no I will build it in the garage, hate welding near a fuel tank, the idea of it starts to make me poo my pants a little!