Engine Change in California Smog Car

[Leizurtime]

So I've done much research on this, since my old 318 mill as good as she runs doesn't really produce the ponies I'd like her too. Anyways, I have learned it is possible to upgrade a vehicles powerplant provided you follow certain criteria. One of these criteria is that you must use an engine from your model year or newer. So, One could swap in say, a 440 from a 1978 Chrysler New Yorker, and this would be acceptable, provided all the emission equipment from the donor car is swapped into the new vehicle.

Another criteria is that you are allowed to swap in an engine which was offered in your vehicles line for that model year. I spoke with a BAR referee technician and he said "cubic inches isn't really a problem." Its the emission equipment that is important. Since the Volare was available with a 360 for 1977 and the emission equipment damn near identical, I have opted to upgrade to this option. Seeing as displacement isn't an issue, I was planning to stroke said 360 to a 408 and use a carb compliant camshaft.

So I have been sleuthing, milling over casting #'s, especially head casting #'s and seeing what people had to say. I discovered that as far as 360's go, people prefer 308 heads, a swirl port open chamber design. I found that these were readily available in 89-91 250 series Vans and Trucks. Well, whats my luck but there be an 89 B250 at my local pic a part. So I run down there hoping to find a 360 but instead, it turns out to be a 318. So I pull a valve cover to see what the heads are and they were 302 castings! Something I have been searching for a long time before I wanted to do the engine swap.

I found myself torn. Should I keep my original mill and work with these highly efficient 302s, maybe build a 390 stroker instead? Or, shrug em off and wait for an 89-91 D250, B250 360 to pop up. There are many out there in SoCal, as you can imagine. Nonetheless, having read so much about the 302s I began to pull off one of the heads. I wound up running out of time, the yard closed and I had to leave, but I'm still debating on running back tomorrow to get those heads. Anyone able to offer advice on which route they'd might go? Keep in mind, I'm looking for more power, but I need to maintain emissions, this isn't an all out race car. Its a daily driver, I won't be going above 9:1 compression and using a mild carb compliant cam. Probably even keep a stock 2 barrell, since thats all they offered for either 318 or 360 in my year. There was a 4bbl on the 360 in 1978 but it was lean burned as far as I know. Any advice much appreciated.

 

[BudW]

I can’t suggest too much on what to do with your engine – but I can give some details.

95% of all 360 -2bbl engines uses a larger 2-bbl carburetor, typically a Holley 2210/2245 (but a few other brands were used those other 5% of the time).

The Holley 2210/2245 bolt pattern is also larger – so you can’t swap between it and the Carter BBD (or smaller 2280/6280 Holley, after ’84).

Another thing to consider is 360 ports (intake and exhaust – for intake manifold, cylinder heads and exhaust manifolds) are larger than 318 ports are.

Installing a 360 intake and 2245 Holly might be a cool idea, but unless you also use the larger cylinder heads and exhaust it is like a large pipe connecting to a straw (or maybe using a NASCAR restrictor plate, but smaller).
The larger cubes (360) and larger carburetor (Holley 2245) more or less even out (compared to a 318)

Note: the ’75 Road Runner (I think ’75) did use the Holley 2245 on a small port intake 318 engine – but that is one hard to find intake. Not much difference in HP.


I’ve traveled through California a few times but never stopped to check on Smog checking.

I would “think” a person could put a 360 in place of a 318, and as long as the emissions equipment is in place and it looks like a 318 – (including an factory air cleaner), then how would they know what engine the car has in it, including up to a 400+ stroker (unless someone told them)?

There are only 3 external clues that I know of – for the trained eye to notice. The 360 has an off-balanced balancer (which would be changed to a 318 or neutral balanced balancer with stroker kit), carburetor – which is hard to see under air cleaner (if a 2-bbl) and cast numbers on side of engine block – which is real hard to read in car. These 3 items are only appear ant to a trained eye,


If interested, I have a good cheap pickup 360 non-roller engine block, crank (if wanted) and possibly cylinder heads (I think) made in ’84 (I think) and was considering boing with a 400+ stroker. If interested, send me a conversation – for I might make you an assume deal on it.

Also, my brother has a pair of 340 blocks he is trying to sell (on Craigslist, Tulsa, OK), but the above mentioned 360 is a way much better deal.
https://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/6109148971.html
BudW

 

[Leizurtime]

I plan on taking the car to a referee, who will most likely scour it with a fine tooth comb. I want it to be legal. I don't believe in doing the sneaky stuff, I think I can accomplish a legitimate goal. Most gearheads problem are all they want is "more power, more power, more power." And they turn to aftermarket alternatives, which can make smogging risky. I have a plan, which if I follow the guidelines correctly I believe I'll have a legit car with good power and maintain emissions compliance. With the 360, I'll suffer on economy, they seem to be a hog on gas, but they are cheaper to build up than the 318 and offer more power potential.

Yes I did look up the carb for that engine on rock auto and the Holley came up, I figure the engine had a carb that was jetted specifically for it. I think its possible to run a thermoquad, they were offered on the 78 Volare 360s and many other Mopar cars for that year. Was contacting a guy about a 360 intake and thermoquad combo.

I would be interested in the block, but you are pretty far away, not sure how we would work out shipping. I can probably just as easily find one close to home, they pop up all the time and for my particular year too.

 

[BudW]

I forgot to mention, I also have a fairly low mileage 79 360 short block as well, out of a motor home. The Cylinder heads won’t work for a car – but I don’t have the heads for it anymore anyway (they were extremely weird heads).
Tell you what, let me know on what you find – before you lay out any $, just for comparison sake.


Note: before considering any engine changes, Can you find out what gear ratio you have? A gear ratio change can make a huge difference - all by itself.
I know you won’t have the dreaded 2.2’s - but even 2.4 or 2.6 ratio are still doggy gears (like driving a boat with anchor still dragging bottom.
Note: I was going to start with this for my last post, but got side tracked.
BudW

 

[slant6billy]

Back in 2014, when I put my Volare back on the street and put plates on it, I specifically wanted it registered as a conventional standard registration. Not antique, classic, or showcar. No limited driving etc. So I specifically went for things to get it through emissions testing. Now New Jersey isn't California, but it adopted a form of California emission standards. I was allowed an Edelbrock carb vice a thermoquad, but they sort of look the same. I failed on HC by 1800 PPM. Shame of it was the car was running like a beast. So I turned those screws in and got it below the 200 PPM. It was like 198 PPM. That and some timing got me through the test. Now, since 2016 they don't test any car that is older than 1996 or non OBD2 cars. So now side pipes and zoomie pipes are popping up on late 70s and 80s stuff

 

[Aspen500]

Just curious, do you have to pass a tailpipe test or is it that the car just has to have all the emission control equipment in place?

Only the SE corner of WI has testing and then like NJ it's only OBD-II vehicles ('96 and up) Rest of the state (like here) there is no testing or inspection so I'm not familiar with how it all works.

 

[BudW]

In Oklahoma, we hadn’t had emissions inspections sense about 2000. Even then, it was a test-strip test wiped inside tailpipe (to see of you were burning leaded fuel – like just how easy is it to obtain leaded fuel?) and visual inspection.
I asked an inspection station worker back in the ‘90’s, and was told if hood was opened and it had a “normal” look – it passed.
On cars with chrome under hood - then they looked at everything.

In 2000 (plus or minus a couple of years) the state got rid of emissions and safety inspections.
Getting rid of emissions I can see, but not sure safety inspections was a good thing . . .

In reality, the cars without OBD2 ports (1995 and older) are too difficult for low paid emission checkers (that I know of) to work with.
BudW

 

[Leizurtime]

I'll have to pass a sniffer

 

[Leizurtime]

Out here, on older pre obd cars like mine the tech is supposed to track down every vacuum and fuel line to make sure they are connected correctly and no leaks. They make sure that if your car came with a 2 barrel, that that's what it has. That's what the last guy did and it was thorough. Then the sniffer and load test began. But some guys are more lax then others. Some you can pay to give you a false pass. Not common, but they're out there.

 

[Aspen500]

So there is no age limit for testing in CA? That's really got to put a damper on things.

 

[Leizurtime]

Nope, 1976 and newer has to pass smog. They were only supposed to go back 30 years, but they stopped doing that. I could take it to Oregon where I grew up, they have the 30 year standard.