1. barbee6043

    barbee6043 Well-Known Member

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    I am sure no one repops the floor/trunk pansdo! I doubt no other model make anything worth trying to use. What other models would work or be close enough to be worth the trouble?? I most always fab my floor pans, but never attempted the F body.
     
  2. volare 77

    volare 77 Well-Known Member

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    Recenty somebody had a good used floor pan for sale on one of the sites but I can`t remember where. They had gotten from Jim in Arizona. I will search around and post it here if i find it.
     
  3. barbee6043

    barbee6043 Well-Known Member

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    If I get a boneyard or used pan it will have to be close enough for me to pick it up! Freight would be wayyyy too high if someone gave me the pan. Thanks though!
     
  4. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Too bad Jim seems to have retired, even with shipping his prices were VERY reasonable.
     
  5. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    All 4-door models (sedans and wagons) appear to share the same floorpan – from edge of firewall to trunk (* see below). 2-door F and M bodies also appear to share the same floorpan - which is shorter than 4-doors. I “suspect a person can modify a 4-door pan to fit a 2-door without too much work.
    J-body floor pans “should” be the same as F and M body’s – but, honestly, I’ve not done a comparison to make sure. I do know that some J-body transmission crossmembers are (completely) different.

    (*) There are two different design trunk pans - those with round spare tire hole ’76 to early ’77) and all others (late ’77 to ’89). The piece that connects the floor pan to trunk pan “I believe” is the same for all FMJ-body’s.
    Trunk Pan BW.jpg
    From my early '77 wagon.
    Trunk Pan OY.jpg
    Late '77 to '89 version (also a wagon).

    I’ve known a few people get newer (mid ‘80’s – which would be 4-door M’s) floor pan sections, and weld into their F-bodies without fabrication (other than the usual cutting and welding).

    M-body (sheet metal) doesn’t come from the factory with the factory installed “rust option” (on most models) – like the F-bodies did.
    BudW
     
  6. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    J-body have the same floor plan, and not all Js have the odd ball trans crossmember either.
     
  7. barbee6043

    barbee6043 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info. I normally fab my floor pans from scratch on my A and B bodies, but the F pans look to have more ribs, so my flat pans would look a little more out of place. F body I am looking at is a feb 76 and the floor is mostly gone! Also wondering what were the factory colors on the 76 runners??
     
  8. old yellow 78

    old yellow 78 Well-Known Member

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    This second pic is of the rear cargo tire well in Old Yellow, my '78 Aspen wagon.

    I'm not sure if it will help you, but below is a pic of the floor pan in OY just after I painted it recently. I was very fortunate in that it only had a bit of surface rust. It was a desert car from the Pueblo CO area.
    IMG_20180930_112414840.jpg
     
  9. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    About your floor pan OY
    drool.jpg
     
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  10. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Yes it is!
    Trunk Pan OY.jpg
    If I find a good a good picture, I save it.
    BudW
     
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  11. old yellow 78

    old yellow 78 Well-Known Member

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    Me too! I've got a bunch of them! ;)
     
  12. barbee6043

    barbee6043 Well-Known Member

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    I finished fabbing the floor pans, front and rear. The mid section where the seats go, was 95% solid. Takes a lot of cutting, bending, but I already had a half sheet of steel, so away I went. It was 16 ga so a little heavier than stock, but she is solid!
     
  13. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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  14. barbee6043

    barbee6043 Well-Known Member

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    Here they are, I generally used 18 Ga, but last time I went after plate all they had was 16 ga. which is good for enter of spare tire well on dusters, but too hard to fab other wise. I use poster paper to make a template, then just cut where I need and bend where I need. Time consuming. Main thing is be sure to get floor down on the subframe so it can be sport welded there like factory. I smallish anvil of 100 lbs works well to hold it down, weld the outsides last!! Seam sealer to finish it off. I clean the old metal with a big wire cup on a right angle grinder, clean, treat with Ospho ( phosphoric acid solution), DRY good!!! overnight, , epoxy primer or Rustoleum type tractor enamel or top coat with whatever.. Seals well.

    100_2391.JPG

    100_2390.JPG

    100_2392.JPG

    100_2389.JPG
     
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  15. old yellow 78

    old yellow 78 Well-Known Member

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    Nice job! Probably stronger than when new. I really wish I knew how to weld.
     
  16. barbee6043

    barbee6043 Well-Known Member

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    Just fine a car guy with a mig welder and in 5 minutes he can teach you, you will be laying down a good bead. Half of it is learning the sound, the feel especially on thin metal. Biggest problem with what we do is mig does not like welding rusty metal, and when you have old thin metal and new metal, it takes some practice to be able to do it, BUT if you have gas run .021 wire,... burn a hole, just weld it back shut!!!!! $600 or less will buy you a decent small welder.