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Fusible Links

Interior and Electrical

  1. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    Hi Guys,


    Does anyone know what the colours of the fusible links relates to in amps? I am going to remove all my fusible links and replace with blade fuses, I have ordered some 100 amp blade fuses and some blade fuse holders with 8 gauge wire to them. Just want to make sure I get the right size fuses for the job.


    Thanks

    Bruce
     
  2. Justwondering

    Justwondering Well-Known Member

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    Bruceynz. I admire your sense of adventure. My skills in electrical run the entire length of take the battery cable off to put the battery cable on. Lol
     
    High Speed Pursuit likes this.
  3. Joe12459

    Joe12459 Well-Known Member

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  4. F body Deconstructor Jim

    F body Deconstructor Jim Well-Known Member

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    I've thought about going with circuit breakers to replace fuses/fuseable links.
     
  5. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    Maxi fuse is a good replacement, there was a plug im fusible link that Chrysler used in the 90s that is an easy splice in (it is really a fuse), also. If you had any salvage yards near you that would let you go picking you could find a Maxi-fuse block or even a 100+amp magnum fuse on a newer vehicle.
     
  6. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    An alternative is flat fuses. I used a battery junction fuse block from an Audi TT(shut up.......) and also modified it to hold low and high beam headlamp relays. It works good as a convenient terminal block too.

    As I said, just another way to do it. Yes,,,,,,I know the battery posts are bassackwards :eek: DSCF0001.JPG DSCF0002.JPG
     
  7. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    It is not pretty to splice in a new fusible link.

    Going with a fuse box like Aspen 500 has and using maxi fuses (a bigger version of the plastic spade fuses) looks good and functional.

    If I ever blow a fusible link – I do plan on upgrading.

    BudW
     
  8. 80mirada

    80mirada Well-Known Member

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    Junked John Deere equipment is a good place to find relay blocks, and modular fuse block parts (for us scroungers). GM has a variety of useful fuse blocks (mini, maxi, ATC/ATO, and large magnum?). I have a couple Maxi block from a 92 Olds.
     
  9. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    My original plan was to use a junction block and maxi-fuses but this block came along at work (I worked as a miserable Audi tech from late '07 to mid '12) and replaced the engine harness on a TT that melted down. the box came as part of the harness so I cut the one from the old harness. That's where the eyelets are from as well. Hey, free is free right? lol

    The trick on the underhood fuse blocks is to find one from an old enough car that the thing isn't the size of a shoebox, AND is only a fuse/relay panel and not also the electrical control (a.k.a. BCM) which is common on many vehicles today. The infamous Chrysler "Totally Integrated Power Module" comes to mind. Infamous because it's not IF, but WHEN it will fail,,,,,,,,,,,,unfortunately.
     
  10. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    I sorta understand the concept.

    I understand that making a relay box with 20 Individual relays in it will cost more to manufacture (in materials and labor) than an electronic box that has all built into it will.

    On the other hand, replacing one defective Individual relay is a whole lot easier on the pocketbook than replacing the TIPM (Totally Interrogated Power Module) is.

    Some of these have the VIN burned into them, so you can’t just go get a known good module and insert for testing purposes, either.
    2004 Dodge pickup TIPM wiring.JPG
    Bottom side of 2004 pickup TIPM

    2012 Ram pickup TIPM wiring.JPG
    2012 Ram pickup TIPM
     
  11. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    Ok what are these colors. left to right:

    Grey - Orange - light Blue - black - black

    50amp - 40amp - ???? - 80amp - 80amp

    whats light blue? (light blue is the one that has melted)



    Circuit
    Hypalon Link Type MAXI Fuse Rating Circuit Wire
    Alternator Feed (R6) 12 gauge (black) 160 amp (2x80 in parallel) 8 gauge (BK)
    Radiator Fan (C26) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 14 gauge (GY)
    Ignition Feed (J10) 18 gauge (grey) 50 amp 12 gauge (PK/BK*)
    Ignition Feed (J1) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 12 gauge (RD)
    ECU/ASD Feed (J1) 22 gauge (white) 30 amp 12 gauge (PK)
    Direct Battery Feed (L1) 18 gauge (grey) 50 amp 12 gauge (RD/WT*)
    Heated Rear Window (C13) 18 gauge (grey) 40 amp 12 gauge (BK/RD*)
    Hazard Flasher (A3) 20 gauge (orange) 20 amp 14 gauge (PK)

    IMG_20160703_101016.jpg
     
  12. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    According to the parts catalog, the blue fuse link is 16 gauge but I couldn't find any definite amp rating or what maxi-fuse would replace it. I did find that a 3 foot or less length of regular 16 gauge wire is good for a 50 amp load if that helps any(?)


    Yeah, those TIPM's. We've replaced a few, mostly on Ram trucks so far (and some Town and Country vans) for various faults. The Ram's is most times because they either won't start or die while driving, lose power, stumble, etc from no or low fuel pressure. The fuel pump relay is integrated into the TIPM so you have to replace the whole works at a cost of roughly $900 plus labor, which isn't much to swap them but it does go up if programming the VIN into is required. Also replaced them for other complaints as well. Mounted next to the battery, under the hood, near the front of the truck with harness connectors that are NOT sealed. They're wide open and water, and worse yet salt water in winter, gets in and corrodes everything. Hate to say it but, poor design there Mopar. :( Been used since 2007.
    Sorry for temporarily hijacking your thread Brucey but:

    How Chrysler's Defective TIPM is Causing Power Problems
     
  13. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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  14. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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  15. shadango

    shadango Well-Known Member

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    SO how did this work out? Red_Baron and I were sniffing around under his hood the other day and noticed what I believe is someone's attempt to remove the fusible link from the system completely......Not sure that is a good sitchie ation to have going on under there for long.

    We also found that his fuse block in the car has broken mounting ears --- looks like the plastic just crumbled and broke.

    Looks like replacing THAT would be a real pain. He used some wire ties to secure it for now.
     
  16. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    I haven't fitted them yet, have a list of many other jobs to do, but making progress, got all the bits to fix it now so just when I have time. Will post pics

    Thanks
    Bruce