Going with the Flow

Badasspen

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
98
Reaction score
2
Location
Kent,WA
Hey guys, so the Green Monster was sold a few years ago, (Big mistake) and last year I brung home another 76 Aspen Rt. The guy I got it from had installed pedals for a 4 speed and hacked out the rusty floors. After many attempts to locate a power brake assembly I finally gave in and thought more along the lines of the 4 speed . I now have a '77 ish overdrive plus all the goodies to put it behind the '76 360. The rear is a 3.55 Suregrip 8.25 unit and I'm in process of completing the sheet metal in the floor. I have a new wiring harness and an a body power brake booster. The hole in the crank seems the largest of the 4 I have lying around and it looks like a plug and play situation from here out. Is there anything I need to look out for besides the hump? I had figured on fitting that into place after the drivetrain was installed. It's my first auto to manual swap so any pointers would be appreciated, thanks.
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
I have a few questions:
Is your car currently manual brakes and you are looking for a brake booster and stuff to convert to power brakes, do you currently have power brakes but a missing booster (or bad booster)?

Are you (or were you) looking for an automatic brake petal and bracket assembly?

I see you are wanting to install an A833 with overdrive behind your 360. Is the 360 stock or mostly stock?
If so, great.
If not, the A833 with overdrive might not be a good transmission choice.

Was your A833 with overdrive originally out of an A/F-body, or a B-body, pickup or van?
If not sure, can you take a picture of it and post it here, please?

I’ve heard that an A-body 4-speed transmission hump can be adapted to fit an F-body – but no first-hand experience on that matter.

Also, the A-body brake booster might not be the best fit in the car – unless you have tall valve covers for the car. If you do have tall valve covers (or big block) there are smaller diameter boosters that will work fine for you (better than an A-body booster).

You mentioned
The hole in the crank seems the largest of the 4 I have lying around and . . .
Can you elaborate on that?

Thank you,
BudW
 

old yellow 78

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
1,307
Reaction score
454
Location
near Allentown, PA
I see you are wanting to install an A833 with overdrive behind your 360
I pretty sure that the four speed overdrive was not available behind the 360's. Was that just some production factor, or is it possible that it does not bolt up for some reason?
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
or is it possible that it does not bolt up for some reason?
It will bolt up.
The A833 with overdrive was also installed in pickups and vans, maybe even in B-bodies, behind a 360.

I’m fairly sure the ’76 F-body 360’s had available an A833 without overdrive.


If he is planning on (or has) a performance 360 – the A833 without overdrive will be a MUCH better option.
A stock 360 – should be able to handle either version of the A833.

I was just trying to have him avoid a disappointment, if he has a performance or a built 360.

Also making sure he wasn’t trying to install a long tail shaft A833, as well (which will fit – except for the shifter).
BudW
 

Badasspen

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
98
Reaction score
2
Location
Kent,WA
.030 360 mostly stock build from a truck.
Shifter mounted in forward location.
Have a car bell housing and another truck bell housing. Z bar from truck, another from a car.
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
Almost all car and pickup bell housings will interchange. The exceptions are the older trucks that have a pair of motor mounts made on the side of the bell – or the top-loading pickup 4-speed’s.

They made a short tail housing and a long tail housing A833 w/overdrive.
tailhousing shifterpad locations.jpg

A, F, M and J-bodies only got the short tail housing version (top). The two will interchange just fine – but shifters are in wrong location. IF you are not going to use a console and can modify the shifter handle, then I see no reason why the (non-E-body) long housing A833 will not work.

The distance from front of the tailhousing to the transmission mount are the same (to blue arrows).

The overdrive gear ratios should work good for your desired engine choice.

I haven’t had enough Z-bars in one place to know what interchanges with what. Logic says only an FMJ body Z-bar will (only) fit – but there is also a good chance others will, as well.

If you have the “casting numbers” on your existing bell housings – can tell you if they will fit, or not.
The big thing about bell housings will be the transmission input bearing retainer diameter. It will need to be the same diameter as the bell housing.
To check if yours will fit, put the transmission on a pair of 4x4's. That should get it off of the ground enough for you to dry fit the bell onto the front of transmission. The bearing retainer should fit snug into the bell housing and it should have the funny transmission bolt pattern on it.

If it doesn't fit snug in the hole, then measure the two holes and report back.

IF you have a long housing transmission - then it is fairly easy to change it over. A short tail housing and short output shaft, as well as some labor and gaskets.
BudW
 

Ed Dorey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2015
Messages
168
Reaction score
28
Location
Kearney, mo
If you're interested, I have an extra trans hump from my donor car. I could possibly remove it soon if it would help.
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
I’m not a J-body expert (worked on a few – but a whole lot more on F’s and M’s) – so not sure about them. I thought I had seen one – but can’t swear to it.

I drove a couple of late ‘70’s M-bodies manuals (/6 plain Jane models) on a dealership lot – but can’t remember if 3 or 4-speeds.
Like F-bodies, not many were made that way, and even far fewer M’s.

By ’80 (and on), I don’t think any M standards were made.
BudW
 

volare 77

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
1,415
Reaction score
203
Location
maryland
For some reason I thought the 76 360 only came with auto trans in the F body. Only 318`s were available with 4 speeds. I may be wrong as I`m only going by memory. The reason it jogged my memory was in 1976 I wanted to order a 76 Aspen R/t new and the dealer said I could only get a auto with the 360.
 
Last edited:

volare 77

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
1,415
Reaction score
203
Location
maryland
found this on allpar.com
Available transmissions included the A230 3 speed (Slant Six only), the A833 4 speed overdrive (Slant Six and 318-2 only), and the A904 and A998/999 Torqueflite 3 speed automatics. These were coupled with either the Chrysler 7 1/4 inch rear axle (for Slant Six coupe and sedan, non-towing applications) or the Chrysler 8 1/4 axle for the wagon, heavy duty, and V8 versions. Axles were available in 2.45, 2.76, 2.94, and 3.23 to 1 ratios, depending upon transmission and engine. Sure-Grip limited slip axles were optional. Torqueflites got a lockup torque converter in 1978 for non-heavy duty engines.
 
Back
Top