Header install

[brotherGood]

Since I cant seem to pinpoint a solid thread on this, why not start one so others can reference it?

I picked up a set of headers a few years ago from another FMJ guy, who got those from another M owner, etc. Had to do slight repair, but overall they were in decent shape considering I'm assuming they're summit house headers that were not coated. Got em fixed, and painted (had they been new I would've gone for coating) and am currently halfway through the install.

So far, I have had to unhook the center link from both pitman and idler arms, as well as the DS tie rod as they actually run through the header. Also, get the car up as high as you can. I've maxed out my jack stands and am still scraping the concrete with the headers..slightly annoyed by that but I'm over it. To install, we've loosened both engine mounts to help lift and roll the engine over. It is important to note, install the drivers side first!! I was well warned of this as others had installed the passengers side first then realized they could not get the engine to roll over for drivers side install.

Word of warning, when you get irritated because the 2nd and 5th bolts will not go in due to the pipe, don't unhook the plug wires without at least marking them first..I speak this from experience. Regarding the bolts, I had my best luck (after taking a step back for a minute) in loosening up the nearest 4 bolts as far as they could go, then putting those hard to start bolts in.

On the passenger side, if you already have the 90 degree adapter you'll probably need to take it off. I know Im going to need to, which is why at the moment this is unfinished. As far as visual fitment, it looks like the passengers side will go in much smoother than the drivers side did. I've also gotta figure out how to make sure my plug wires are off of the header, but worst comes to worst, I've got zip ties to get me through until a more permanent solution.

I will continue to update, as well as upload pictures. I figure its about time I start doing my part with write-ups since I've utilized them so much in the past. If anyone else has any other input, feel free to post it up.

 

[Duke5A]

Don't use jackstands. Make blocks out of wood to place under the tires. Once you get all four corners up you can place wood under the jack to raise its height even further to then place more wood under the blocks. You can get the car high enough with a regular floor jack - it just has to be done in increments.

Don't forget the 2x4 on the top to prevent the wheels from rolling.

 

[Duke5A]

Also, you may want to consider a remote oil filter kit. Dad has one on his coupe and makes oil changes a snap with headers. Not the best photo, but you can see it on the left. Dad made a bracket to mount it where it's at. I was going to do the same thing at one point, but that changed once I committed to building a big block.

He did make me a similar bracket. I probably have it in the garage somewhere and have no use for it.

 

[brotherGood]

I had seen the blocks used in other applications, but that makes sense. I have thought about the remote oil filter numerous times before, especially after having so many issues with my 90 degree adapter..I just never really looked into it.

Thats the goal of this thread though, so that all of these things I may run into can be learned from down the line. I checked multiple outlets and never really saw a straightforward write-up, so hopefully this can be the go-to for all questions to be answered on this for future installs.

 

[BudW]

I would agree with Duke5A. Jack stands are great but sometimes are not enough.

An old (American) Indian friend of mine told me thirty years ago, the best way to install headers . . . is not to.
OK, OK, I won't say anything more about that - for that might not be an option.

For Chrysler vehicles, if a person is going to install headers (especially, an expensive set) the best way might be to drop the engine/transmission down along with the K-frame a short distance. Install them then raise the engine/transmission/K-frame back up into the engine compartment. I don't think it will be that much more work involved – but the amount of grief, damage to headers, damage to other parts and damage to your body (and/or pride) will be less.
It will also give you time to do other things needed at same time.

After all, you (I'm speaking in general - not to anyone specific) have been considering solid K-frame mounts, replacing that tired steering gear – and the list goes on. This would be a great time to get it all done at once.

This is an example – but a person will not need to go that much, in this case.

BudW

 

[brotherGood]

That thought definitely crossed my mind Bud, to the point where I was pricing boxes and (at least) poly mounts.

Down the road, a new k frame will be transplanted in. One that has darn near everything either reinforced, replaced, or just simply upgraded altogether.

 

[brotherGood]

Headers are on, car sounds wicked. Oddly enough, the mini starter and 90° adapter were what fought us the most after the driver's side header was installed. The passengers side header literally slid right into position. Ive gotta go back through and double check motor mounts, double check that wires are off of the pipes, and install the rest of the exhaust, but I'm pretty stoked

 

[brotherGood]

...and video

 

[BudW]

Did you cap off the A.I.R. Ports on the cylinder heads, before header install?
What I mean by “cap off” is drill, tap then insert plugs (orange circle, below).

BudW

 

[Duke5A]

Did you cap off the A.I.R. Ports on the cylinder heads, before header install?
What I mean by “cap off” is drill, tap then insert plugs (orange circle, below).
View attachment 39887
BudW

He doesn't have them. He's running Magnum heads on an LA 318.

 

[BudW]

He doesn't have them. He's running Magnum heads on an LA 318.

Even better!

I have been guilty of going through the pain of installing headers (not on an FMJ) and discover the A.I.R. Holes hasn't been plugged yet – so in effect doing it twice.
BudW