johnnyspeed
Member
does any one have photos of the carb linkage for V8 with cruise cable, throttle, cable,
and the transmission linkage, it would be very helpful
and the transmission linkage, it would be very helpful
holly 4bbl carb linkage
- Thread starter johnnyspeed
- Start date
2 or 4 bbl?
A year of car would be nice to know, as well.
A year of car would be nice to know, as well.
johnnyspeed
Member
I just bought a 1981 Dodge Mirada that the previous owner installed a weiand manifold and a holly 4bbl, or should I say started to install. They only hooked up enough to make it run.
I just now noticed the thread title says 4 bbl (my bad).
Next question is was this car originally a 2 bbl or a 4 bbl car?
It does make a difference.
If not sure, then post the 8th digit of the VIN (from windshield or door jamb), please.
Also a few pictures of what you currently have would be helpful – if items are missing, etc.
Next question is was this car originally a 2 bbl or a 4 bbl car?
It does make a difference.
If not sure, then post the 8th digit of the VIN (from windshield or door jamb), please.
Also a few pictures of what you currently have would be helpful – if items are missing, etc.
johnnyspeed
Member
Bud; the 8th digit is k, I'll get pics tomorrow and post them. I think the bellcrank from the transmission is from a 2bbl setup though. I have several parts from a friend to pick and choose from. THANKS Johnnyspeed
Kernel Sanders
Well-Known Member
Here is a pic of the actual linkage that uses a dowel pin to attach to the carb right under the throttle pin and the cruise servo cable attaches to this little linkage. it should be the same regardless of 2 vs 4bbl but is different on a 1bbl (for slant 6).
Sorry I don't have a pic of it ON a carb
Sorry I don't have a pic of it ON a carb
johnnyspeed
Member
thanks for the pic, but not what's needed. I need to see how the cables are routed
Kernel Sanders
Well-Known Member
I know its not a pic of the area your looking for... I'll look through my pics at home tonight to try to find a pic of the last car I had with it... but here is an excerpt from my 73 charger service manual
You should have a normal 318 2-bbl car that has had a 4-bbl installed to it (no problem – just establishing a base line). Should also come with an A999 transmission and 7¼” differential. Rear differential gear ratio is most likely to be a 2.4:1, but might have a 2.2 or 2.7:1.
These pictures were taken from my ’86 5th Ave 318 2-bbl with Lean Burn and linkage is all correct. Pictures indicate what is different between the 2 and 4-bbl setup.
The throttle cable is longer on 4-bbl car by about an inch.
I would get the correct cable before driving the car because you can get your existing cable in a bind and it WILL hold your throttle open (and will make for a BAD DAY, real quick).
Most parts stores should be able to get you a 4 bbl cable (they are still available).
There should be a Holley Chrysler adapter added onto the carburetor.
If not - get one or you will not be able to get throttle open fully NOR get the transmission linkage to work correctly, without it.
The adapter moves the throttle stud towards the L/F wheel by about 2 inches, roughly. The throttle cable and transmission hook up is also moved over and sits on top of the valve cover now.
The throttle stud should be roughly at 11:30 O Clock position when closed and WOT (Wide Open Throttle) will be at a 2:30 O Clock position, if everything is correct.
The cruise cable should be tight enough to allow a little play in the link pin (see picture on post above).
The throttle cable should be slightly loose on throttle stud.
If needed I can get the correct cable adjustment procedures, if needed.
The transmission kickdown linkage is the big issue. A person can modify the throttle cable stand to move cables outwards (or make a bracket that extends it out the same distance as the Holley adaptor is).
4-bbl linkage is not easy to find and it may be easier to purchase a Lokar cable to replace your linkage with.
Throttle closed
Throttle open
Note: These items need to be moved over about 2 inches (2-bbl shown)
Cruise cable routing. Notice the bracket on brake master cylinder that cable goes through (under booster vacuum hose)
BudW
These pictures were taken from my ’86 5th Ave 318 2-bbl with Lean Burn and linkage is all correct. Pictures indicate what is different between the 2 and 4-bbl setup.
The throttle cable is longer on 4-bbl car by about an inch.
I would get the correct cable before driving the car because you can get your existing cable in a bind and it WILL hold your throttle open (and will make for a BAD DAY, real quick).
Most parts stores should be able to get you a 4 bbl cable (they are still available).
There should be a Holley Chrysler adapter added onto the carburetor.
If not - get one or you will not be able to get throttle open fully NOR get the transmission linkage to work correctly, without it.
The adapter moves the throttle stud towards the L/F wheel by about 2 inches, roughly. The throttle cable and transmission hook up is also moved over and sits on top of the valve cover now.
The throttle stud should be roughly at 11:30 O Clock position when closed and WOT (Wide Open Throttle) will be at a 2:30 O Clock position, if everything is correct.
The cruise cable should be tight enough to allow a little play in the link pin (see picture on post above).
The throttle cable should be slightly loose on throttle stud.
If needed I can get the correct cable adjustment procedures, if needed.
The transmission kickdown linkage is the big issue. A person can modify the throttle cable stand to move cables outwards (or make a bracket that extends it out the same distance as the Holley adaptor is).
4-bbl linkage is not easy to find and it may be easier to purchase a Lokar cable to replace your linkage with.
Throttle closed
Throttle open
Note: These items need to be moved over about 2 inches (2-bbl shown)
Cruise cable routing. Notice the bracket on brake master cylinder that cable goes through (under booster vacuum hose)
BudW
johnnyspeed
Member
Thanks, that is exactly what I needed. Looks like everything was wrong. Again thanks.
View attachment 18273
View attachment 18273
Your throttle stud is about at the 10 O Clock position and not at 11:30 O Clock position – so you do need to get the Holley Chrysler adapter bracket. Part number should be 20-7 – but don’t quote me on that.
Your existing throttle cable I WAY TOO short (red circle).
The clamp should be against the metal cable Ferrell (part name?) and not clamping the cable itself.
A person could make a metal bracket and bolt onto your existing intake bracket – which would move the clamp part over to what is indicated by the white lines (it should be sitting over the valve cover (which makes it a pain to remove the valve cover).
The black cross is more or less where the throttle stud will be at once carburetor bracket is installed.
Unless you have friends who already have an unused 340/360/318 4-bbl kickdown linkage setup, I wouldn’t even mess when looking for a setup - and then worrying that all of the parts are there and correct.
I see a lot of sets that are not correct or has missing parts (which means you don’t have what you need and you have less $ to fix it).
Just go get an aftermarket Chrysler cable kickdown setup and that might be the cheapest and fastest fix to that problem.
An example of an earlier 360 4-bbl setup. The intake bracket is a different year and won’t be exactly what yours should be (or will be) but gives an idea of what it should look like.
Note: this is a B or a C-body and their 1 piece kickdown linkage will not fit an FMJ body (it hits the firewall).
BudW
Your existing throttle cable I WAY TOO short (red circle).
The clamp should be against the metal cable Ferrell (part name?) and not clamping the cable itself.
A person could make a metal bracket and bolt onto your existing intake bracket – which would move the clamp part over to what is indicated by the white lines (it should be sitting over the valve cover (which makes it a pain to remove the valve cover).
The black cross is more or less where the throttle stud will be at once carburetor bracket is installed.
Unless you have friends who already have an unused 340/360/318 4-bbl kickdown linkage setup, I wouldn’t even mess when looking for a setup - and then worrying that all of the parts are there and correct.
I see a lot of sets that are not correct or has missing parts (which means you don’t have what you need and you have less $ to fix it).
Just go get an aftermarket Chrysler cable kickdown setup and that might be the cheapest and fastest fix to that problem.
An example of an earlier 360 4-bbl setup. The intake bracket is a different year and won’t be exactly what yours should be (or will be) but gives an idea of what it should look like.
Note: this is a B or a C-body and their 1 piece kickdown linkage will not fit an FMJ body (it hits the firewall).
BudW
johnnyspeed
Member
Thanks Bud at least I have a good idea of what's required.THANK You.I will send pics when I get done. Johnny Speed
