IH 1086 Tractor Air Conditioner

Justwondering

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As I continue my journey trying to keep up with the family estate, I have run into hot days and the fact that I never installed the the AC compressor I bought last year for the tractor.

I didn't install it, because after I bought it I realized I can't just take the tractor down to the mechanic and have help with the part I've never done (vacuum pump and 3 colorful hoses to put the refrigerant in). The beast is one you would have to drive down the road and I don't think an 18 mile round trip would be in my best interests just to get A/C.

Therefore, I'm looking for guidance on buying the things I would need to properly set up the Air Conditioning in the Tractor.

Is there a particular type of pump? What is a good price point?

I've always seen the 3 hose set up (3 different colors) at the mechanic's. What is that and what is a good price point?

I do know what r134a is. I have several cans and did successfully convert my Chrysler Fifth Avenue and it does cool... rather, it did cool and will cool again when I fix the last pack rat eaten wire next week.

Any help would be appreciated.

JW
 

Oldiron440

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18 miles to far?
In Iowa we get tractors on the road for fun, have a mile or two or five of old iron lined up rolling on memorys.
 

Justwondering

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Do you make these memories when its 98 degrees outside?
Rather than Sweet memories it would be Sweat memories ... lol
 

Oldiron440

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I was commenting on the 18 mile drive not the AC....old fat men like AC!
 

Aspen500

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You may want to check if there's a shop that makes "house calls". I know the tractor and implement dealers around here do, at least a couple of them anyways.

Otherwise, if you have the gauge set, pretty much any decent vacuum pump will do the job, as long as it's capable of pulling down to at least 28". On the gauge set, the three colors are: Red, high side port. Blue, low side port and yellow goes to the vacuum pump for evacuation and then the tank, or in your case the can, for charging . You'll also need a can tap if you don't have one already.

For your use, you don't really need a top quality gauge set. See if there's a used one for sale somewhere or check at Harbor Freight, if there's a store near you. There's a bunch on Ebay for like $30. Otherwise they can be up to a couple hundred bucks for a professional (use everyday in a shop) set.
R134a R12 R22 AC A/C Manifold Gauge Set 5FT Colored Hose Air Conditioner | eBay

Then,,,,,,,,,,to go along with the gauge set, you need the R134a quick connect fitting to go on the end of the red and blue hoses. Example:
R134A Adapter Quick Connect Coupler High Low A/C Air Conditioning Freon Manifold 723610090475 | eBay

Vacuum pumps for A/C service range from around $60 up to $475 but as I said, the low priced one would be fine for home use. No matter which pump you get, be sure it has a port that the hose can screw onto.
 

BudW

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Harbor Freight actually sells two different vacuum pumps: a 2.5 CFM pump and a 3.0 CFM two-stage vacuum pump.
Technically, the cheaper one (2.5 CFM) will remove the air from the A/C system – but will not remove all the water moisture – which is the key word here.

The 3 CFM two-stage pump is way better – but for a 1-time use – is it worth the additional $50?

Any R-134a gauge setup (even the cheap ones) will get you in business.

If you have any questions – give me a call and I can discuss specifics. I might even make a trip down and show you how it’s all done . . .
BudW
 

Justwondering

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I've been finding all kinds of things in the barn down at the estate.
So many things my dad had and now are mine to use.

So a vacuum pump and a gauge set may be in there somewhere.

Going to look this weekend (probably Sunday after I'm done shredding one of the back fields).

Thanks for the offer Bud. Let me see what I can find in the shelves and boxes.
My current strategy is to go down there around 6 in the morning and mow until 9 or 10 while it is 'cooler'.

Then turn the fan on in the barn and start the scavenger hunt.

As I understand it, these tractors run through a/c compressors pretty regularly. The guys drinking coffee at the local diner told me
1. Yeah, I replace mine every year. Specially if I have to shred dry grass fields.
2. Well ma'am, if you git out there and start it up even in the winter time you can keep things lubricated and only have to replace them every other year.
3. Damn things are so expensive, I just took the glass out of the doors and use a regular fan. Scuse the language ma'am.
4. Honey, are you sure you want to be out there messing with the engine? (and you know that just started my slow burn -- such a dolt).
5. Dang it man, if the lady wants to mess with the engine its her tractor and she can do it if she wants to.
6. Don't mind those two, just realize you will want that a/c when you are out there mowing in the heat. Think of it as annual maintenance expense. Whatever you do yourself is less you have to pay someone else. And by the way, my Farmall goes through an a/c compressor just about every year... although sometimes it can last as long as a year and a half.

Only one guy said his a/c compressor lasted longer and he was the guy that got out there and ran the a/c during every month of the year. Said if it was a dry spell he was very sure to get out there and run it every week or so to keep things lubricated.

I'll find out if one of the local guys will come out and check the a/c; but, last time I had someone come out to fix a tire it was $135 for a big rear tire on the John Deere (included putting a tube in it).

JW
 

BudW

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If you find some equipment that might be A/C related, take pictures and post here.

The biggest problem I run across is seals dry up on my gauge set and finding replacement seals cost as much as another cheap gauge set, sometimes.



A/C is somewhat like anti-lock brakes. The two systems are nothing alike - but both do need to be used every month or two to prevent troubles.

The older style A/C systems use an internal oil pump with refrigerant oil sump – to keep the compressor lubricated. This system is typically heaver/bulkier than the newer style compressors are. Examples are the Chrysler RV2, GM A-6 and York compressors.

The newer systems do not use a sump for refrigerant oil but depend on the oil circulating along with the refrigerant, to keep things lubricated – which in my opinion, doesn’t do a very good job at it.

The newer style (anything built in last 30 years), the oil tends to run down and pool in low parts of the A/C system, after time, which is very hard on compressors on startup. Think of it as running and engine cold, without any oil, for first five minutes, every morning). If you turn on the A/C for five or less minutes every month or two, you don’t have any problems with this style compressor.

The Chrysler RV2 style compressor doesn’t have this problem – but it does have another problem – which needs to be used every couple of months or so. That problem is with the ceramic compressor shaft seal. Without lube, the seal leaks the refrigerant out (slowly).

I understand why auto manufactures use the sumpless compressors on newer cars, because of weight and the slightly higher parasitic loss of the additional oil pump – but those style compressors hardly ever had a compressor failure.

Now, no one is makes the older compressors – which is a shame. On things like tractors, for cars only driven in warm months (like several of our members) and so forth, you can expect to replace A/C compressors on a regular basis (unless you make time to go start the vehicle and run A/C for a few minutes), every month or two.

The same A/C compressors are used for semi’s and failures are unheard of, with them.

RV2 Compressor.jpg

Chrysler RV2 compressor (less clutch) - aka: the boat anchor.

A6 Compressor.jpg

GM A6 compressor. You can see the sump hanging down and the oil level check plug on lower side. Also reliable and also called a boat anchor.

York Compressor.jpg

York style. Also used with a lot of older Chrysler add-on A/C units.


ABS - use them every so often, or they might not work when you need them.
BudW
 
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