Im stumped

4speedjim

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My trunk key wont open the trunk lock, or lock/unlock glovebox. Ive mussed & fussed lubed, wiggled, jiggled, sprayed and prayed, wire wheeled the teeth all to no avail. So, Im thinking about drilling the lock. Ive never had to resort to this so Im looking for some pointers. Ive already bought a new lock and keys. Im putting it on the road Monday and need to replace a couple tail lights and sockets before I take it to Inspection. Anyone know their way thru a trunk lock?
 

Mr C

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I presume you do not have a power trunk. Only other way would be pulling the rear seat and crawling in to pop it.
 

Aspen500

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I'd try Mr. C's idea first. Pull the rear seat out and climb/reach (depending on your size) in with a screwdriver. There's a slot in the trunk latch that operates the catch. If you have a taillight finish panel,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,this won't be possible.

Drilling the lock is basically just starting with a smaller bit and working your way up until the lock cylinder is bored out and then a large screwdriver can be used to turn the lock. An alternative is to drill the proper size hole into the cylinder and use a slide hammer BUT, that risks possible damage to the deck lid. The trick is to pull the lock cylinder out of the lock body, not the lock body out of the deck lid.
 

4speedjim

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Thanks Guys! My Cordoba is rather sparsely optioned. /6 1Bbl, LS pkg console AT, A/C, Tilt, Cruise, 4 speaker non ETR am/fm. No power options, decklid included. But I didnt even think to check, Thanks! Im built like a pencil (And about as flexible) So if that doesn't work with the cover still on tail lights... Where about would I start a pilot hole? Do I just bore out the keyway or go above the keyway and drill the pins out? Or does it not matter where I start? Thanks Again for any feedback you have on this
 

Joe12459

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A small hole right above the keyway, like 3/16" is usually all it takes. Drill about 1 1/4" deep, then try to turn the cylinder with a screwdriver. If it doesn't work, use a bigger bit until it does.
 

80mirada

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Since it is a Cordoba, if you have a finish panel you should still be able to get to the slot in the latch anyway. The latch is mounted upside down on the deck lid. The trunk and glove box are a round key desperate from the ignition unless it had the one-key option.
 

4speedjim

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Great! Thanks so much Joe! My heart says try through the back seat first given what 80Mirada said. My back says Drill the damn thing since a new lock & keys is on its way. I'll let you know where it ends tonight when I get back in the house. Thanks Again for your help! Its greatly appreciated
 

4speedjim

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Pulled back seat to enter trunk. Found several several small Mopar boxes with dash controls. Blower switch, voltage reg for dash lights and a resistor for the blower motor. The picture is getting clearer. No dash, courtesy or radio lights work. Those that I see are all blown. The blower motor doesnt switch on, so I'll verify theres power and replace reg and resistor. Ancient technology. Fan resistor looks like its from the 50s, It might not be correct? Reminds me more of a home thermostat, or like an ATC control, which it never had. I will know when I get that deep chasing all these loose ends. Also found fiberglass tail pieces!! That makes me very happy. Im going to drill the trunk lock so I can get them bigger pieces out. Anybody have a tip on getting the headlight switch, speedo cable and remote RH mirror control unhooked from the dash? Nothing in FSM on mirror, headlight switch has screws that are hidden behind trim or mount for the switch. Im sure these are something simple that I am overlooking. If you have an Idea, Im all ears. Literally! As a kid they called me dumbo. OK too much info, I get it... Thanks for anything you can add, I think this thread is going to grow long before I get the Cordoba to DD status.
 

Joe12459

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If you reach behind the dash, to the back of the headlight switch, you'll feel a small spring loaded button toward the front of the switch, almost to where it meets the instrument panel. Push this button in and pull the on/off knob out of the housing. Now you can unscrew the retaining chrome retaining nut/bezel and the switch comes out from behind. The speedo cable should have a plastic clip on it, similar to an electrical connector. You press the clip in and pull the cable out of the speedo. I don't remember how the mirror remote secures in the dash, but I'll look at my son's car tonight.
 

Joe12459

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This is a photo of the top side of the headlight switch. Notice the small metal button in the center of the switch. This will be on the top side as it is mounted in the instrument panel. That's what you push down before pulling out the knob.

headlightswitch.jpg
 

Joe12459

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This is a similar speedo cable. The plastic end pushes into the speedo housing and locks in place. The plastic clip pushes in to unlock.

speedo.jpg
 

4speedjim

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Damn Joe!! You put the fun back in car repair! I sure hope there come a day when I can buy you a beer and shake your hand!
 

4speedjim

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I had to drill 2 rivets out from under the brake pedal in the steering column that hold a panel under the dash. Wonder if theres an exploded parts diagram that could shed a little light on that mirror? I cant feel anything you'd, let me rephrase, I associate with a clip or lock. On the speedo cable, you push the cable in and squeeze the end of that clip down and try to pull the cable off the back of the head?
 

Joe12459

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I had to drill 2 rivets out from under the brake pedal in the steering column that hold a panel under the dash. Wonder if theres an exploded parts diagram that could shed a little light on that mirror? I cant feel anything you'd, let me rephrase, I associate with a clip or lock. On the speedo cable, you push the cable in and squeeze the end of that clip down and try to pull the cable off the back of the head?
OK, you made a little extra work for yourself, but that's no big deal. The two rivets you drilled actually attach to a bracket that clips around the bottom of the column. That trim piece can be pulled straight down and the bracket will come off the column with the panel. I guess you can just rivet the bracket back to the panel.
I checked my son's car. If you take the instrument panel bezel off, you will see that the instrument panel is assembled in two pieces. If you unscrew and remove the outer cover (with the glass in it), you'll see that the mirror control is held in the housing by a nut under the front cover.
Yes, push the speedo cable in slightly, squeeze the plastic clip, and pull it out. Sometimes it is a little sticky.
Good luck!
 

4speedjim

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Ha Ha, ya I did make a little more work for myself. Without your help, Id have put it together long ago, and Thanks doesnt seem to cover it. Im down to unplugging the harness from he circuit board and gauges. Headlight switch was upside down, but I got it, and with a moderate tug on gauge cluster I freed it from speedo cable. Entire top of circuit board was folded in half and is basically trashed. Im searching for a conductive pen in an attempt to rebuild a 4" or 5" section of the top of pcb where the 2 halves connect.. The rural area I live in means I have to order things like the conductive pen unless I stumble across something on my way to buy lights. That pcb doesnt run gauges & idiot lights, just the dash lights right? Any tips on getting the cluster separated from the harness plug? It almost looks like I need to squeeze two tabs and/or twist with a push or pull, but so far neither has worked and I cant see enough of it to know. Hopefully this will be my last question for a while and once everything comes in, she'll be on the road!
 

Joe12459

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If I remember correctly, the pcb does run the gauges as well as the lights, but I could be wrong. The plug is a pain in the ass, but you are right, you push it in slightly, squeeze the two tabs, and pull it out. It usually sticks, but it will eventually come out.
 

Joe12459

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There's also a small voltage regulator for the gauges, that needs to be there. If you can't fix the PC Board, I might have a spare, but I have to look through my brother's garage, so it may take a few days.
 

4speedjim

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This has turned into a project. Thank God Im not on flat rate! I ordered a conductive pen, in an attempt to repair my pcb. But who knows how well it will turn out? I tried to upload a pix of the pcb but my laptop wasnt interested. It was folded over on itself from the factory, and theres a 1/4 in gap on the fold. Im sure your aware how bad they can be. And this one is the worst Ive ever seen. I see the voltage reg is tucked in there. I do want your pcb if you find it, mine appears to be beyond repair, but Im gonna try to fix it for my own self satisfaction. It can live as a bookmark in my service manual if you find yours. I sure do appreciate you hanging with me Joe. I know Im full of dumb questions that most find obvious. Thank You Again
 
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