iso-clamp elimination
- Thread starter prodart67
- Start date
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
No. You have to use a plate from an 8 3/4 mounted under the leaf spring. Shocks from a 72 Charger would work as they are loop/loop mount instead of the upper loop/ lower bayonnet type.
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
And the 8 1/4 axle pad has a large locating hole in it. You would need some washers welded in the perch to reduce the hole. I make my own with 1/4" plate steel and a holesaw. I weld mine to the axle perch but you can bolt the washer to the leaf spring. The u bolts will hold everything together.
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Ahh, seems the Solid Bushings.com thread has the parts you need too. It's a different alternative to using the 8 3/4 shock plates.
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Nope, not even close. If you use the 8 3/4 plate, you are eliminating the 8 1/4 plate.
Check the sticky threads in the suspension section on this site for exploded view pics. Maybe someone can post up a exploded view of an old school Mopar with an 8 3/4 setup?
Check the sticky threads in the suspension section on this site for exploded view pics. Maybe someone can post up a exploded view of an old school Mopar with an 8 3/4 setup?
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Pre iso-mount 8 1/4 plates are the same as 8 3/4 plates.:icon_pidu:
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Yep, as the 8 3/4 plate gets mounted under the leaf spring. If you remove the locating bolt from the spring and install a washer, your good to go. Im guessing that the 8 1/4 rear has a locating hole of 1 5/8. And I think I use a 1 3/4 holesaw on 1/4" plate steel to make my own washer. The holesaw makes a slug that will fit into the perch. I open up the 1/4" pilot hole to maybe 9/16" to fit the standard locating pin. Im guessing at all these dimensions. But the 1 3/4 holesaw will give you a slug with an outside diameter of around 1 5/8
bremereric
FMJ Body Moderator
Nope...Nope and Nope...then yes and yes and yes...picture tells the story...pardon the old 30 year old bald tires...shock is on top plate..I used FFI stuff...Solid Bushings is cheaper...I did the thread for your knowledge
I want to change to a b body setup I have the springs and shock plates. The spring perch stud is 1 1/2 inch closer to the front of the vehicle, the springs are the same 58" X2.5" I think it will work if I add a leaf in place of the short cut bottom spring and redrill the post 1.5" back. Whatduya think?
bremereric
FMJ Body Moderator
Here's another spring option...from Firm Feel...
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]These new hangers allow owners of F,M,J-body cars to use the standard 57-inch E-body XHD rear leaf springs. The second eye bolt location is 1.5 inches higher and allows the car to be lowered a little over an inch if desired. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]$65/pair
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]These new hangers allow owners of F,M,J-body cars to use the standard 57-inch E-body XHD rear leaf springs. The second eye bolt location is 1.5 inches higher and allows the car to be lowered a little over an inch if desired. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]$65/pair
Dakota springs share the same front segment length as FMJ cars, but are 2" shorter in the rear. I did a full isomount elimination/conversion to Dakota springs on a 79 Volare, and long story short, AFTER all the work, figured out an easier way, but only if your main leaf is still good.
Drop all but the main leaf, get a full set of dakota springs (check the door tags for rear axle rating to get dakota springs that are close to what your car has), remove the overload leaf, now you have 3 leafs to replace the ones you removed from your car. You will have to cut off the ends and do some grinding.
You can keep your isomount and use poly cushions, or continue with the early B lower plates and shocks.....
