Just picked up an 81 Imperial

Doc's Equip

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Yeah, technically a Y body, but close enough I guess

Ive always real liked this body style, I’ve had a Mirada, a Cordoba, and a couple of F bodies, but this Imperial body really sticks with me.

Body and undercarriage are solid, interior is toast, mainly the front seats and the headliner. EFI is gone, cruises at 75 mph easily, no leaks, or smoke.

Wheels need to go.

Screenshot_20221011-143119.png
 

FredMcJoe

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Leather seats? Leather can sometimes be brought back from the dead. Reply if interested.
 

FredMcJoe

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Leather work is a lot like auto-body work only softer and something you can do indoors. I am not affiliated with any business. I can refer you to a company that I've had good experience with, another Imperial owner's experience, and what I've done.

The company is called Leatherique. They are decades old, they hold the patent for the aniline dye process. They publish an informative book they posted online that explains how to clean leather and how their collagen products have a capillary effect which would take out that dirt you see on your seats.
http://www.leatherique.com/2011-leatherique-book.pdf
They sell a cleaner/conditioner set which is largely collagen in two viscosities. They color match dye, tho I understand some reds are more difficult nowadays.

1964 and 1973 Imperial owner, Kerry Pinkerton did a good write-up of his leather restos on his 2 Imperials using Leatherique's products. Some of the photos in the 1973 section are like double exposed or something strange, but they are fairly informative. He had split seat covers and he used the time tested method of gluing in a suitably sized piece of vinyl, with the cloth backing side up, to either side of the split seam and bringing the two together. The end result would make you think it took real work when its really easy. Refinishing (Chrysler) Imperial Leather Seats by Kerry Pinkerton

I have used their products on a lot of Imperial seats, specifically my 1964 Crown Coupe seats which had old style, thick hides. I learned a lot on those. I sanded off the old dye when I didn't really need to but in that I saw how much abuse, like coarse sand paper, leather like that can take. That gave me confidence to go at lesser leather and I've had good results with leather furniture and more modern leather in cars.

My claim to fame is to go one better than what Leatherique's book describes. They say to leave the car out in the sun with the collagen conditioner on the seats so it warms up. I saw a garment steamer for sale on Craigslist one day and bought it. I used the Leatherique cleaner directly in the steamer. Eventually it clogged up the steamer but that was ok, it was only $35. I see them at Walmart for about $50-60 new. I like the garment type as it has a long hose and a hanger for the hose which makes in-car cleaning easier.

The primary benefit of the heat is that it gets the cleaner up to a heat that unwinds the 3 strands that makes up the collagen molecular structure. This unwinding causes it to become thinner so that it more effectively gets down into the pores of the leather. As it cools, the strands try to recombine which lift up the dirt and oil from the pores in a capillary effect. This is explained in detail in the Leatherique book in the link above. The overall method is that you put down the conditioner over the leather, then apply the heated cleaner over it. When enough wetness starts to pool up of this hot solution, a towel is used immediately to gather up the oily grime before it can sink back into the pores. Its very elemental and its THE WAY to clean leather. You can't get this with soap and water, you can't get a clean like this with Armorall, etc. This is applicable to all leather in your car or in your house.

Its not cheap but its cheaper than finding new seats, and you keep your Imperial original, and the cleaned leather looks, feels, and smells just like new when used in this method.

Your seats look pretty easy to do from my experience. Coming at it from a novice standpoint, you'd be surprized at how well you did after not too much work. The seat covers come off pretty easy from those seat frames but I think you can do everything in the car from what I see.

Ask if you have questions. Thats a freakin beautiful car, the red leather and black paint is one of the best combos on those Imperials.
 
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FredMcJoe

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Oh, I forgot. For splits where some of the leather is gone, they sell a Leather Bondo flexible filler, too. It is a lot like regular body-work. Spread it over a mechanically glued in vinyl backing, let it dry, sand it a little, reapply as it shrinks a little, resand, repeat til you have built up a good thick surface. Depending on use, it can last a long time, or it might split again after a while, in which case you can just redo it some day.

The steam heat I mentioned will take off Leatherique's aniline dye. I found this out the hard way but then I realized I can just wipe on fresh brand new dye which just makes it look new all over again... it became a non issue as long as I had spare dye and useful if you get dye somewhere you don't want it, or it doesn't match, etc. Just a basic cleaning with their products in the manner I use would make a huge difference immediately for the dingy seats you have. You would be amazed.
 

FredMcJoe

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...another note, they sell a clear topcoat which puts a gloss on the leather, and they sell a pearlized topcoat which is what a lot of 60's 70's leather had. I am not sure about your red leather for that, but as I recall that was a leather that was tanned more along the lines of the old world type of tanning, with a nice thickness to it. Leather can be a lifelong material when cared for in this manner. The collagen restores the stretch to the leather.
 

Mikes5thAve

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That seat is toast. You might be able to get away with fixing it where the seam is but not the tears. Did you get a price for getting them re upholstered?
The only problem with going with something newer is its hard to find something coupe, it won't be direct bolt in and good luck finding red.
 

FredMcJoe

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Toast is when its been laying out in the open weather for 20 years in a junk yard. Those are perfectly repairable and not in that bad of condition if you use the right materials.
If those seat covers are up for being thrown in the garbage, please let me offer a few bucks and I'll restore them myself :)
 
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kkritsilas

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I second the Leatherique products. I use them on my daily driver (2006 Monte Carlo SS). When I got the car, the leather seating surfaces (modern cars only have leather on the places you sit on) was glazed over, and very dirty. I tired the Lexol brand products and they didn't have much effect. I then talked to the owner of a local detailing supplies shop, and he said to use the Leatherique products, and they would work well. I went home, did some research online, and went back to the store and bought the "Rejuvenating Oil" and "All Clean" (cleaner). Used them as outlined in the instructions, and they really did do the job. Turns out the "glaze" came off, the leather looked new, and felt much better than it had before. Later on, on the Leatherique site, it said that the "glaze" was basically dried skin oils and sweat, and they were right. I then used it on a friend's Toyota Camry, about a 16 year old car they inherited from a passed on relative. The car came with velour seat covers. First thing I did was take the seat covers off, to reveal a driver's seat that seemed to have embedded grease. With nothing to lose, we put the car outside with the windshield pointing towards the sun, on one of the hottest days of that summer. I again put the Rejuvenating Oil onto both front seats, waited about 5-6 hours, and then went out with All Clean and took off the "stuff" or "gunk" that the Rejuvenating Oil had raised from the leather seats. No more dark, greasy looking areas, the driver's seat was back to its light tan colour, matching the rest of the interior. I then did the same with the rear seat. The interior looks almost new now, and I help them maintain it by doing that once a year.

The only thing about the Leatherique products is that you seem to put it on "backwards"; the Rejuvenating Oil goes on first, then you use the All Clean as a follow up to remove whatever the Rejuvenating Oil brings up to the surface. On all other product lines, you use the cleaner first, and then the conditioner.
 

FredMcJoe

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I second the Leatherique products. I use them on my daily driver (2006 Monte Carlo SS). When I got the car, the leather seating surfaces (modern cars only have leather on the places you sit on) was glazed over, and very dirty. I tired the Lexol brand products and they didn't have much effect. I then talked to the owner of a local detailing supplies shop, and he said to use the Leatherique products, and they would work well. I went home, did some research online, and went back to the store and bought the "Rejuvenating Oil" and "All Clean" (cleaner). Used them as outlined in the instructions, and they really did do the job. Turns out the "glaze" came off, the leather looked new, and felt much better than it had before. Later on, on the Leatherique site, it said that the "glaze" was basically dried skin oils and sweat, and they were right. I then used it on a friend's Toyota Camry, about a 16 year old car they inherited from a passed on relative. The car came with velour seat covers. First thing I did was take the seat covers off, to reveal a driver's seat that seemed to have embedded grease. With nothing to lose, we put the car outside with the windshield pointing towards the sun, on one of the hottest days of that summer. I again put the Rejuvenating Oil onto both front seats, waited about 5-6 hours, and then went out with All Clean and took off the "stuff" or "gunk" that the Rejuvenating Oil had raised from the leather seats. No more dark, greasy looking areas, the driver's seat was back to its light tan colour, matching the rest of the interior. I then did the same with the rear seat. The interior looks almost new now, and I help them maintain it by doing that once a year.

The only thing about the Leatherique products is that you seem to put it on "backwards"; the Rejuvenating Oil goes on first, then you use the All Clean as a follow up to remove whatever the Rejuvenating Oil brings up to the surface. On all other product lines, you use the cleaner first, and then the conditioner.
Yes! It does seem backwards. Understanding how the 3 strands unwind with heat begins to explain the reason why the thicker Rejuvenator goes on first. If I may, I suggest looking for a steamer to get the temp up for the "Pristine Clean" cleaner, I buy it by the gallon and that's how it comes labeled to me. The Rejuvenator melts into a thinner solution that fills the pores while the more watery cleaner creates a pool of solution that is wiped up immediately to remove the dirt and oil.
I tried Lexol years ago and got dirty white leather from it. Later I understood it had no science behind it.

When I use a low heat like sitting in the sun, I get a little bit of tack left behind but when I use the steamer, it leaves a perfectly clean and dry feel. I believe this comes from a full unwinding of the molecular structure down into the hide.

A few years ago, I had opportunity to buy a collection of used Imperial seat covers from a wrecking yard in California. The guy mostly sold Imperial parts and had his guys take off all the leather covers. I had a bedroom full chest high of leather covers. I learned alot about leather with that.
 
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Mikes5thAve

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Toast is when its been laying out in the open weather for 20 years in a junk yard. Those are perfectly repairable and not in that bad of condition if you use the right materials.
If those seat covers are up for being thrown in the garbage, please let me offer a few bucks and I'll restore them myself :)

I'd love to see them repaired. I've yet to see anyone successfully do it. That newer style of leather never seems to look good again once its been stretched out like that and the tears always seem to end up pulling apart again unless the car is rarely driven.

Hopefully one of my winter projects will be restoring the leather seats out of one of my cars. They'll need some attention from an upholster because the vinyl side panels are done but the leather itself is still good albeit on the dried out side.
 

FredMcJoe

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I'd love to see them repaired. I've yet to see anyone successfully do it. That newer style of leather never seems to look good again once its been stretched out like that and the tears always seem to end up pulling apart again unless the car is rarely driven.

Hopefully one of my winter projects will be restoring the leather seats out of one of my cars. They'll need some attention from an upholster because the vinyl side panels are done but the leather itself is still good albeit on the dried out side.
I took paper-dry 1966 Crown Coupe rear seatbacks, they looked like they were never sat on but the leather felt cardboard dry, and with the steamer and Leatherique's 2 products, I brought that back to a moist-like suppleness.

Really dried out 20 years in the rain and sun, that is more of a challenge. If its been somewhat protected, it should come back. I have a mid 80s 5th Ave leather interior in my Volare wagon, I haven't treated it in a few years now and its still soft. If you look at the Kerry Pinkerton photos, you can see how he had really deteriorated white leather and how well it came back on his '64 Crown on the imperialclub website. He did the full treatment, tear repair, and redye with the pearlescent topcoat those cars had. Turned out like new.
Refinishing (Chrysler) Imperial Leather Seats by Kerry Pinkerton
 

Mikes5thAve

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The older firmer seats like Kerry Pinterton did seem to come back well. Leatherique and coloring works great when they're dried out.
Again that newer style of leather never seems to look good again once its been stretched out like the red imperial seats and the tears always seem to end up pulling apart again unless the car is rarely driven. Instead of drying out like leather in older cars the newer stuff tends to stay soft longer and thins out from stretching to get it's damage.
 

kkritsilas

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There is another product that can be used for extreme cases of dried out leather. It comes in a small can, and is called Surflex Leather Soffener (that's the way it is spelled on the can, don't look at me, its neither a mis-spelling nor a typo). Last can I got was from Car Care Specialties (in the US). It is more of a traditional leather conditioner, but like its been put on heavy steroids. I used it to restore the seats on my 1993 Lincoln Mark VIII. Did a great job of restoring texture and flexibility (this was way before I heard of Leatherique). Its strictly a leather conditioner, not a cleaner, but it does its job really well. Dried out leather just seems to suck it up.

A lot of newer leather in cars has some sort of coating that does wear off, and only then do you get to the raw leather. It can make leather seats start to look splotchy when the coating is gone. I think the only real way to get seats like that to look good again is to sand them down to the leather, re-dye the entire seat, and then put the Leatherique protective coat over them. Or just re-dye them, and leave them without the protective coating,

The thin-ness of the seat leather these days is to keep material costs down (undoubtedly, the major reason) , and possibly to keep weight down as well (to be honest, I don't think there's a lot of weight to be saved, but you never know). The leather seats on today's cars not having complete coverage (leather seating surfaces is what they are now calling them) instead of a fully leather wrapped seat is the same idea taken in a different direction. If you are wanting fully leather wrapped seats, you are talking about Rolls-Royce/Bentley type money. Another trick by the car makers is the push for Alcantara, supposedly a higher end than leather material, except it isn't; Alcantara is a micro-fiber, or a synthetic cloth in other words. It is also close to impossible to clean completely, and the detailing industry hasn't quite figured out how to clean it yet.
 

FredMcJoe

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There is another product that can be used for extreme cases of dried out leather. It comes in a small can, and is called Surflex Leather Soffener (that's the way it is spelled on the can, don't look at me, its neither a mis-spelling nor a typo). Last can I got was from Car Care Specialties (in the US). It is more of a traditional leather conditioner, but like its been put on heavy steroids. I used it to restore the seats on my 1993 Lincoln Mark VIII. Did a great job of restoring texture and flexibility (this was way before I heard of Leatherique). Its strictly a leather conditioner, not a cleaner, but it does its job really well. Dried out leather just seems to suck it up.

A lot of newer leather in cars has some sort of coating that does wear off, and only then do you get to the raw leather. It can make leather seats start to look splotchy when the coating is gone. I think the only real way to get seats like that to look good again is to sand them down to the leather, re-dye the entire seat, and then put the Leatherique protective coat over them. Or just re-dye them, and leave them without the protective coating,

The thin-ness of the seat leather these days is to keep material costs down (undoubtedly, the major reason) , and possibly to keep weight down as well (to be honest, I don't think there's a lot of weight to be saved, but you never know). The leather seats on today's cars not having complete coverage (leather seating surfaces is what they are now calling them) instead of a fully leather wrapped seat is the same idea taken in a different direction. If you are wanting fully leather wrapped seats, you are talking about Rolls-Royce/Bentley type money. Another trick by the car makers is the push for Alcantara, supposedly a higher end than leather material, except it isn't; Alcantara is a micro-fiber, or a synthetic cloth in other words. It is also close to impossible to clean completely, and the detailing industry hasn't quite figured out how to clean it yet.
You only have to go so far as a 1965 Imperial to find full leather seat covers. For that year, there was very little vinyl used on a Imperial seat... even the sides of the center arm rest was leather. Optional headreasts.. leather, seat sides were leather. :)
Leatherique's website mentions leather from 1991 up was the new chemically tanned leather with fake texturing pressed in. I believe the Chrysler leather in the 80s 5th Aves and 80s Imperials were the old style tanned, thicker hide with natural surfacing.
 
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