Kwik-Lift -- anybody used one?

Justwondering

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My husband is looking for a lift to make my life easier working on vehicles.
He ran across this product: Kwik-lift

Here is the website: Home - Kwik-Lift

Has anyone used this? He's thinking of the kwik-lift, not the 2 post or 4 post (cost wise).

Advice is welcome.
 

NorthernNYMOPAR

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Honestly if I'm going to have a lift I want it to really raise the vehicle, I started having back issues from working off the floor. I kept my eyes open and ended up buying a privately owned 4 post lift for a reasonable price, but you need ceiling height. So don't rule out a used loft 2 or 4 post if you got the space.
 

BudW

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Made not far from where I grew up, in Tulsa OK!
No experience with that system, though.

5,000 pound capacity might be good for your car or maybe a ½ ton pickup.
My ¾ ton diesel pickup weights in over 8,000 pounds, empty. Some tractors might be more, maybe.

I would think you will need a lift to service all of your vehicles, so I don’t see a 5,000 pounder getting the job done, for all that is in your fleet.


One thing to think about, is there are lifts that allows wheels to be free (great for suspension and brake work), and those that lift by the wheels (great for vehicle maintaince and other work on the car).

Most repair shops I see nowadays, have both kinds of lifts. Those that lift by wheels and those that lift by frame.

My brother likes the kind that you can put a car on and lift up (ie: an electric drive-on lift). Then you can drive another car underneath it, for storage. These work great for a lot of repairs – but not sure it is best for a repair shop who uses them all of the time.
I think this kind might be good for you:
HT1gYMdFR4cXXagOFbXy1.jpg

Or something like this.

Almost all lifts require a good and level concrete pad.
BudW
 

kkritsilas

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Depending on the situation, either lift is necessary. If you are working on suspension, the 4 post drive on lift is not going to be useful, so you need a lift that uses the frame. If you want to work on transmission, exhaust system, then the frame lift gets in the way, and the 4 post drive on is needed.

Ever wonder what happened to those gigantic hydraulic lifts that garages used tohave? The ones with the massive central hydraulic cylinder in the middle? I haven't seen any in a garage for a while. Most seem to be electric these days. either 2 post, or 4 post.
 

DCAspen

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My friend just put one of those in his 3 bay garage,To park more cars in his place,He already had a 2 post lift for 20 years.
 

NorthernNYMOPAR

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I chose a 4 post because it is essentially free standing, and I honestly like the stability of the vehicle on it, a 2 post requires the proper mounting base design in the concrete, I have actually rolled my 4 post out when I had to get a trailer in my shop. But again, what do you have for ceiling height in the garage, if you raise a 5-6 foot tall vehicle 6 feet off the floor you need head room.
 

Justwondering

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Well, I was thinking of the kwik-lift since I have no garage and no concrete to put it on.
I do have crushed granite rockbase.

If I wait for the concrete and garage that's a two year wait. Promised my husband I'd finish the downstairs walls on the house before I feed big money into this car addiction. If we have a good spring (normal spring), I should be able to get half of the remaining portion finished this year and by fall get the last portion prepped for the next year.

Its those pesky honey-do's that stand in my way ;)
 

NorthernNYMOPAR

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Everything is choice and a give and take, if it fills thaw need now and serves what you need to get you 2-3 years then buy It use it and maybe resell later. Gotta go with what your current situation allows, which isn't always the end choice.
 

4speedjim

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You need a level 6" concrete pad. No matter what your plan is. Last I looked, 2 post lifts can be bought new for $1500 to less than $2795 delivered and installed. They're rated at 8-11,000lbs in that price range. I'm pretty sure the Quick lift commercial shows it is secured to bolts in the level concrete floor just like a 2 post, but are compact, to be removable if space is an issue. Your hubby will still be on his back with a quick-lift to change oil, swap trannys, do exhaust etc.
I imagine quick lifts would be good for body work, and buffing the lower 1/3 of the car. Not so good for a "mechanic" working under a car.
Your considering doing this on a dirt driveway?!
With an unsecured lift?
That is suicide.
Even at full lift of just 3ft 3in.
Quick Lifts are as much as a cheap 2 post, half what a name brand 11,000Lb lift cost. $99/mo x 36
Concrete isn't expensive, nor is the pizza and beer for friends to help smooth it. Well under $700 for cement, framing, beer and pizza. And the framing can be reused for the building.
Funerals run $8,000-$12,000.
A month in hospital is $250,000.
Wheelchairs are very cheap 2nd hand.
It looks like in your area, you could pour a nice "open air" concrete pad. Then install the lift, any lift and build the garage around it as time and money permit. IMO the quick lift isn't cheap enough, sturdy enough or lift high enough to offset me crawling on my back under a car which IMO, defeats the whole purpose of paying for a lift. A jack under the axle lifts as high as a kwik lift. Your moving sideways not forward IMO.
Once you buy a 2 post, you will never regret that decision.
Good Luck and keep us posted
 
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BudW

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Start off with a flat but thick concrete pad. It should be the starting point on no matter what direction you go. Also use plenty of rebar in the construction.

If nothing else, it will at least provide a flat and secure place to jack up vehicles, roll around on a creeper underneath, etc., while getting funds for something bigger.
BudW
 

4speedjim

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Yep Bud is right, Again!! First thing should be a concrete pad. 6 inch+ reinforced concrete. Like everything we are taught in life, you've gotta start with a good foundation! ;)
 

jasperjacko

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I would take a 4 post any day. You can get or make a sliding accessory for lifting the tires off the ramps, no post in the way of doors. You don't have to have a slab as long as you put large deep footings underneath. You can pour the slab later.
 

got job

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I used a Kwik-LIft for several years. It was on concrete. If used on gravel I would use wood bases under the front stands to keep it from sinking in the rock. Also plywood would be needed at the rear for the floor jack that lifts the rear of the runners. Watch the video of how he lift is used and you will see that while it could be used on rock , it might be hard to do. It is easy to take apart and move with help. I sold mine for $700.00, so look around in forums or craiglist and you might find one. In the picture you can see my wagon on the kwik-lift laying flat.

IMG_0553.JPG
 
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