Wow, $4.54 to $5.00 per gallon of gasoline?
Remind me to budget more for fuel expense, when visiting Canada.
I filled up Wednesday for $2.07 per gallon on 87 proof (my term for octane)/100% gasoline.
AJ/FormS, mind if I ask what you use for your calculations (BTW are top notch)? I’m assuming you have a few spreadsheets, or something, for your calculations.
If so, could I ask for a copy or web address or whatever it might be?
The next part is not directed to anyone in particular.
There is three different “ideas” (out of lack of better word usage) or styles that I commonly see (for cold air intake):
- The first type I see used is an aftermarket kit which replaces the paper air filter box/housing and uses a (typically cone shaped) K&N style oiled air filter. In most cases this style uses underhood and heated air. I don’t think this common aftermarket system is a true cold air system – but instead relies on additional air flow from the oiled air filter).
- The second type I see also uses the K&N oiled air filter but have extra hardware that uses some form or fashion to collect the cool outside air, instead of heated underhood air (not a common system, but is out there).
- The third style I see, which is present on all but a few unaltered FMJ bodies (I “think” ’76 is the exception – but could be mistaken) uses a factory cold air system (providing all factory parts are still present).
I am a big supporter of using outside, or a cold air duct system.
When you are driving the outside air actually becomes pressurized (in the case of FMJ cars, the fresh air intake is behind the L/F headlight/bumper area) which improves fuel mileage (more air, same amount of fuel = better fuel mileage at highway speeds) and a small fraction more power at highway speeds. You also have the benefit of the cooler/denser air (compared to the hotter underhood air).
Don’t believe me about the pressurized air? Just open a car window and stick your hand out the window while driving at highway speeds. That is what engine is seeing (or feeling?).
Now with all of that said, I AM NOT a fan of K&N style OILED air fitters!
Those filters use frequent maintaince (ie: constant cleaning then adding oil to filter every few miles) for the oil is what is capturing the dirt. You have to remove, then clean the air filter every few miles to rid of the oil captured dirt, then after cleaning, re-oil it again. The cleaning and the constant re-oiling rarely takes place.
The K&N style oiled air filters will flow more air (with or without the filters being oiled). Many cases, they can flow twice the air flow as a paper filter.
With that said, they DO NOT capture dirt anywhere as close as what paper does. The dirt capturing capacity between the two different filters are not even in the same continent. Paper traps the engine wearing dirt, and the Oiled filters (for the most part) DO NOT capture dirt.
You might as well not even use an air filter (this is my opinion ONLY) - if you are going to run an Oiled air filter – except to keep the big stuff out.
Again, there is no argument about Oiled filters flowing many times more air, but they also do not capture much, if any, dirt.
Dirt is your engines biggest enemy. If you spend any amount of money on an engine (sometimes thousands of dollars), why let it wear itself out by allowing unlimited amount of abrasive dirt right into it?
With all of that said, I do have an Oilable round air filter and filtered air cleaner top on a chrome base, that I can use at a track, for ¼ mile at a time usage only. After the timed track trial, the paper filter is going right back on.
If a person wants more air flow and considers the paper air filter to be the problem, I would highly encourage finding a way to double the size of the paper filter or rig a bigger filter under fender or something. Please don’t wear out a perfectly good engine from abrasive dirt!
If Oiled filters were the best thing on earth, then the OEM would have incorporated those years ago. Wait, . . . they did use them back in ‘50’s - but stopped using them sense no one took the time to perform filter maintaince. That system was what called an oil bath air cleaner. They are heavy, bulky, messy and just inconvenient.
Dodge has TSB’s # 09-004-11 and # 09-001-10 referring to dust/debris ingestion and dust out damage, on their Cummins diesels.
Matter of fact, Dodge will cancel you 100k mile diesel engine warranty if there is any signs of dust, anywhere in the intake system (after filter).
A quick search shows a lot of issues like below.
Warning!!!!! [Archive] - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
Now Diesels do use a ton of air (unrestricted air flow, no matter what the throttle position is), more so than most V8’s will use.
Just something to think about.
I'll be updating this thread as I progress.
