Need some help

[greymouser7]

Have any of you rebuilt the 8 1/4 in our cars?

Can I do that easily/correctly with the shim point of interest (has to be gnat's assed)

I Need some help finding "clutch set" for my sure grip rebuild.

I was looking at this:

Yukon Gear & Axle Differential Clutch Sets YPKC8.25-PC-T/L

Yukon Gear & Axle Differential Clutch Sets YPKC8.25-PC-T/L

but a feedback report says that it does not work with the 96' an older 27 spline 8 1/4" axles

any help pointing me in the right direction would be great, thanks

How much front suspension can I install myself before turning it over to professional?

What would you guys buy from firmfeel.com ?

Would you ever consider operating a 360 powered FMJ with manual steering? my current vehicle is manual and I am willing to park logistically if this feasible.

Did we ever figure out the door seals that people bought that didn't fit (long enough) for some members? Where did he buy those again?

What do you guys like for shock tion absorbers?

thanks!!

 

[80mirada]

Firm Feel was the.only choice for our cars.for a.long time, they are still a great choice, Dick went through a great deal of effort and money to produce many great parts for our cars, including HD torsion bars.

As for shocks, this depends on budget and purpose. Money no object, there are Viking shocks, $6-800, they are awesome for a serious handling car. Bilstein Custom from Firm Feel, $400, a great High performance/limited track shock. Then there are KYB, $125-200, a good compromise for a mostly High Performance street car with some limited track time. Below KYB are premium replacement shock such as Monroe OE Spectrum and Sach. If you are looking for a drag race type shock, they are ussually special order, QA1 was the last premium drag shock I saw available for FMJs on a special order a few years ago.

As for rebuilding the 8 1/4, the Limited-slip is a hitch to do d the rebuild parts for IF you have one that is rebuildable, most are not. The job of rebuilding it isn't terribly hard, you need some special tools, patience, and atleast a factory services manual. There is an SA Design book out there for 8.25 and 9.25 Chrysler rears that is supposed to be excellent.



Manual steering with a 360 is a matter of personal preference. Chrysler built many small block cars with manual steering. The steering will be heavy but manageable, my elbow would stop me from having my car setup that way, but I drove plenty of A-bodies with 340s and 360s that had manual steering and an Aspen that had a stroke LA motor.

 

[Oldiron440]

I've got a RB Volare with manuel steering, good for the upper body.

 

[BudW]

Over the years, I’ve rebuilt a lot of Chrysler differentials – and will be doing another one (8¼”) in next couple of months or so.

If you are changing seals and bearings – then there is not a lot do it – other than a few special tools (ie: press for bearings and related parts, a tool to adjust carrier bearings and tool (puller/press) for wheel bearings). The shims shouldn’t needed – unless lost while changing bearings.

I have an old C-Body torsion bar that I use to adjust the carrier bearings with. They fit in the tube and adjusters just fine. I don't recommend getting one, just for doing one differential - for other things can be fabricated for a one-time use tool.


All FMJ 8¼” differential sure grips (for ones lucky enough to get one) - came from factory without serviceable parts (ie: no clutches).
If yours had an older unit installed or had a non-OE part installed – then yes, it might be rebuildable – but I doubt that is the case.

The one that should be in your car has a metal cone set inside of a metal housing. It uses metal on metal for friction to prevent slippage. When those metal parts wear – there is no rebuilding them for metal is worn away and gone.

Instead of purchasing a clutch disk set just yet, I would recommend purchasing either an OE carrier that has clutches or a new one. Or even better, wait to get differential cover off first, to see which design you currently have.

If yours is the cone design and is slipping – the only repair available is to replace it.
If by some odd chance you have a disk design – then the link you provided should do the trick.

If looking for 8¼” parts – it needs to be for a 27 spline unit.



I personally think that almost all front end suspension work can be done with anyone with basic tools, a floor jack, jack stands and access to a press. If replacing upper ball joints, then access to a ball joint socket. I have touched thousands of control arms and such in my lifespan so it is second nature to me.

If you don’t have access to a press or a ball joint socket, you can usually take your control arms (once removed) to a auto shop and the most they will change your parts for you for a fraction of cost of having all of the work done there.

I prefer to de-rust and paint my parts before re-installing them – which makes looking at parts easier on eyes and easier to keep clean.

If you have a FSM (Factory Service Manual) it will tell you step by step procedures on what to do and how to do it.
Once done, take car to get car aligned and you are set.


I’m a fan of manual steering. That said, my wife is not a fan – so anything in our fleet, she has to be able to drive, without complaining . . .
BudW