OE: Single stage or base/clear paint

[rcmaniac791]

So the paint on the FA is obviously original, and even though I have tried my best to preserve it, sitting outside for almost 5 years hasn't been the kindest on it. The paint is starting to show some oxidation and inconsistencies in the color. In the shade or with the sun in front of you it looks ok, but with the sun behind you the paint shows its true colors (no pun intended).

Anyways, I've saved up some money and decided to get the paint professionally restored by a detailing shop that is kind of local to me. I just don't want to screw it up, the mechanical is more my speed.

When Chrysler painted these cars in the factory, did they use single stage or base/clear type paint? I know all the auto makers were changing away from single stage around this time. I think I have base/clear on my car, because when I did lightly compound the hood and trunk lid 2 years ago, I didn't have any of the tan come off on the cloth. As a side note, what is the paint code for tan? Thanks guys.

 

[volare 77]

To the best of my knowledge I believe it was single stage acrylic enamel. I think they switched to base clear sometime in the early 80`s but I`m not 100% sure when.

 

[volare 77]

Mopar Paint Chips

 

[XfbodyX]

In 78 they started the "clear coat" package. In 78 the code was A71 and in one form or another you could get it from that year on.

Although im not what car you have, look at your FT just for kicks for any odd paint codes, could be a A code, a V code, or the 999 special paint code if it was not std then.

You should be able to find a subtle spot to chip,sand, look, determine.

 

[volare 77]

Cool , good to know. Thanks

 

[rcmaniac791]

Cool. So I'm safe saying that in '84 the cars used a base/clear paint?

 

[Oldiron440]

On the tan met. yes it was CC..

 

[kkritsilas]

So the paint on the FA is obviously original, and even though I have tried my best to preserve it, sitting outside for almost 5 years hasn't been the kindest on it. The paint is starting to show some oxidation and inconsistencies in the color. In the shade or with the sun in front of you it looks ok, but with the sun behind you the paint shows its true colors (no pun intended).

Anyways, I've saved up some money and decided to get the paint professionally restored by a detailing shop that is kind of local to me. I just don't want to screw it up, the mechanical is more my speed.

When Chrysler painted these cars in the factory, did they use single stage or base/clear type paint? I know all the auto makers were changing away from single stage around this time. I think I have base/clear on my car, because when I did lightly compound the hood and trunk lid 2 years ago, I didn't have any of the tan come off on the cloth. As a side note, what is the paint code for tan? Thanks guys.

To find out if it is clear coat or single stage, get some compound (think Meguair's ultimate compound, NOT Turtle Wax rubbing compund), and using a soft cloth (microfiber is best, but not required) with some of the compound, rub on a spot on the car. If colour comes off onto the cloth, it is a single stage. If you don't get colour, it is probably a clear coat.

You may not need to repaint the car. Assuming that it is a single stage, try compounding out horizontal panel. You may just be surprised as to how well the paint can look after that. If it is acceptable, you have a couple of ways to go. Either buy a machine polisher and learn to do it on your own, do it by hand (and this is a major effort, both in time and muscle pain) or have a detailer come and do it. The advantage of the detailer is that they will be able to get it done faster, and have the experience and knowledge to do a good job. The disadvantage is that you are left with no tools or knowledge gain if you want to do this again, or on another car.

The cheapest machine polisher that is worth the effort of buying is the Harbor Freight DA polisher. You will need to get a different backing plate, and don't count on the Harbor Freight pads being usable. In the US, this is probably a $120-130 investment (polisher, $60, Baking plate $20. the rest is for pads). Do not listen to the "detailing snobs" who will recommend a Griot's, Flex, or Rupes polisher at many times the cost of the Harbor Freight DA (2X for the Griot's GG6, 5-6X for the Flex and Rupes). You can go a long way with the Harbor Freught, a decent bacling plate, and a good selection of pads. No need to go crazy with the products either, Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish are great products at a very good price.