Off season Aspen projects have begun

Projects & Restorations

  1. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Decided to tackle the rear main seal leak as the first winter project and see if I can finally resolve the concern. It's been an ongoing thing since day one, unfortunately. Maybe 4th time will be the charm?:eek:

    Need to remove the fan, shroud and crank pulley to access the front four pan bolts. Then,,,,,,,,,,,,,under the car. Once the center link is out along with the rest of the pan bolts, it slips out with millimeters to spare.

    I've got one of those Fast F ish one piece, double lip rear seals but not sure if it can be installed with the crank in place. I'm hoping it can but we'll see. If not, on to plan B.

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  2. Justwondering

    Justwondering Well-Known Member

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    Beautiful, clean engine.
    Well lit work area.
    Ahh... the stuff of dreams.
     
  3. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    It would appear well lit in the photo's but it isn't really. Need to change some or all of the tubes really soon. There's 15 fixtures with two 4 foot bulbs each (plus the 3 track lights above one of the benches). When new, they were at least twice as bright.

    Think I might be onto something with the oil leak. There was no sign of oil on the backside of the seal retainer, flex plate or converter and very, very little oil residue in the bell housing. When I cracked the seal retainer bolts loose, it was like turning on an oil tap. What it APPEARS to be is,,,,,,oil coming down around the bolts. The holes in the block are through holes, not blind. The pan gasket doesn't quite cover the counterbores in the retainer. There's no indication the seal itself was leaking a drop.
    This time I'm going to be sure and put sealer on the retaining bolts and also make darn sure the retainer is sealed well to eliminate any chance of oil seeping through the mating surfaces between it and the block.
    Hopefully,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,VERY hopefully, this will fix it once and for all. Won't know for a few months, unfortunately.
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  4. slant6billy

    slant6billy Well-Known Member

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    You make it look easy.
     
  5. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Unfortunately,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I've had a lot of practice with this stupid oil leak on my car so I end up doing it on autopilot:( Think this is attempt number four, or is it five?
    I'm hoping SO BAD I don't get anymore practice after this time.
     
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  6. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    One good thing about a big block is at least the oil pan is easier to get on/off than small block (or a /6) is.

    You may be onto something with the bolts.
    I have seen before, the bolt holes filled with sealant a few times (after retainer bolts installed), thinking what moron did that – but maybe they were on to something . . .


    Did you build your engine or did someone else do it?
    What brand stroker kit do you have?
    What brand oil pan?
    Can you take some picture of the oil pan clearances, please?


    Your first photo, you have an A/C idler pulley (double) spacer used (between the alternator and water pump). Have you thought about removing that spacer and installing shorter bolts in their place?

    One sharp looking engine compartment/engine!
    Kudos to all of the hard work you did, it shows.
     
  7. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Other than the machine work, I built the engine myself,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,twice. Long story and I'll elaborate on that later,,,,,,,,promise.
    It's a 500" stroker kit from 440 Source. Other than the block and head castings, literally every single part in or on the engine was brand new. Go big or go home, right? lol
    The pan is a Milodon stock replacement unit with the matching Milodon oil pickup. It's a stock replacement pan but has baffles so a stock pickup won't fit.
    I'll get some pics of the pan clearance once it's back together, or I may be able to find some I already have and if so, I'll post them soon.
    The spacer is there for the idler pulley and belt, it's just off the car right now. In my first post, see the 3rd pic. It's sitting on the work stand. Without it the w.p. belt squeals at high rpm or quick acceleration. The p.s. belt runs the water pump but only goes about 1/4 way around the w.p. pulley. Those are actually long ARP studs, just put the nuts back on. What better place to store a fastener than the place it goes?
    Thanks for the compliment, seriously!
     
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  8. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    I must have missed the idler picture – but it is there.

    Right now I have a spare V-8 K-frame. My plan is to measure each corner of the K-frame in car (measure at frame, not at bolt – which will get shortened with the replacement pucks) to ground and transmission mount to ground.
    With those measurements I will make a jig (mock up with spare K-frame and engine) so I will know my exact big block oil pan placement and my oil pan to oil pump (suction) line placement. While I’m at it, move the engine oil filter to in front of L/F wheel along with an external transmission filter – for factory (stock) oil filter replacement looks like a, um, pretty fun job, with A/C, P/S and a under hood battery.

    I’m currently undecided about going with Schumacher mounts, making the factory big block ones work/fit or making my own engine mounts.


    I have a couple of “402” (factory 6 quart) oil pans that I would like to use – but not sure if they will fit or if modifications will be needed (and so on). I would like to get as much oil in engine as I can get to fit.

    I’ve got blocks, and from 440 source, a par of crank kits, 2 pair of Stealth heads and lots of other goodies, just waiting for me to assemble a pair of strokers – but I do have plans on driving mine maybe a we bit more than you have.
     
  9. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    I didn't find any oil pan pics. Actually, COULDN'T find. I need to organize my pictures a bit but I'll keep looking.
    I'd think a 6 qt would fit fine. I assume the sump is a little bit deeper(?) The 5 qt sits about flush with the bottom of the k-frame. My trans is mounted to the stock x-member and the engine was positioned to center the fan in the shroud. It's still the original k-frame. We cut the S6 brackets off and welded V-8 ones on off a donor. Back in '89 when the original BB swap was done I couldn't find a single good V-8 K-frame at the scrap yard. Every one I looked at was rotted through around the upper control arm stands and at the rear iso-mounts (gotta love Wisconsin cars...........) The engine brackets are stock spool mounts from the '71 RR the engine came from (with the insulators replaced of course). I did have to rework the left side a little for clearance this time. Went with a Milodon high volume pump and it sticks out somewhat farther than a stock pump.

    Yes, to change the oil filter is an adventure. Right now it's easy though, lol. Normally I have to remove the aux and p.s. belt, fan and shroud to change it. It will NOT fit out the bottom, even though it's the small dia filter (like a Motorcraft FL-400S) Other option is pull the battery and tray but option one is way easier (and lighter too). Only have to change oil once a year though so, not that big a deal really. I had a dual remote on it in it's former semi pro-street life but decided to put it back on the oil pump. One downside is the normal size filter won't fit (too big around) but the small one seems to work just fine.
     
  10. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    So you have the ’72 and down biscuit style mounts on it?

    Milodon makes an oil pump cover, part # 21225, that I was going to use for the remote filter.

    I forgot, another reason for making my mock up is to make sure I have oil pump clearance.
     
  11. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Guess I take that back on the mounts. You're right, they are '73 and up spool mounts. Who knows what car or year they came from. I sure don't remember,,,,,,,,,,,it was 28 years ago, lol. I do remember the engine coming out of a rotted to the door handles '71 Roadrunner though.

    Hard to get a decent photo of the oil pump area but here's a couple anyways. The angled part that goes forward from the mount bracket/steering box is the close one. Not sure if you can see it, had to natch it out a bit where the filter screws on.
    The other pic is the dual remote filter setup I used to have on the car. Was going to use it again (or a new version). Decided the room just didn't exist for the filters and the oil lines anymore.

    Got the pan primed, just need to make it Hemi Orange yet and I can get the engine back together this weekend. At least that's the plan................

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  12. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Slight setback. Sprayed the first coat of Hemi orange on the pan and,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,became obvious the primer I used and the engine paint do not like one another at all. Bunch of spots wrinkled/lifted and on the rest of the pan it's like the top coat dissolved the primer, it rubs right off.:( Guess I'll have to start from scratch. Oh well.........................
    If everything went right the first time out, what fun would life be?:D
     
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  13. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Been slacking lately but got the seal and retainer put back on this evening. Made sure all the mating surfaces were spotless and put about a 1mm bead of Ultra-Grey RTV on all of those mating surfaces. The bolt threads got the white teflon sealer and just for good measure, ran a bead of RTV around the area just above the bolt heads. That's in case any oil would somehow find it's way into the bolt holes.

    Don't have the pan ready to go yet. Project to work on tomorrow during the snow storm.
     
  14. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

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    Just use a dry lube and you won't have any oil leaks!
     
  15. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,it took longer than I thought BUT, the pan is back on. I like it better being orange than the gold iridite (or whatever it's called). Seems to fit in better.

    BudW, as promised way back when, photos of the pan installed. Got a couple from different angles, hope you can see what you need to see as far as position and clearance.
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  16. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Onwards and upwards. Started on the valve adjustment. I suspected they had gotten a little "loose". Per PRW's instructions, zero lash plus one turn. When I backed most of them off one turn, there was lash. Guess it all loosened up a tad once everything got worn in to each other.

    Got the left side done, now for the right side. Need to pull the valve cover off yet. Simple 5 minute job:eek:

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  17. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    You spent a lot of time on the car – and it shows!
    Looks far (or way) better than new.
    Not hardly a dent or scratch in sight

    Did you custom make your transmission cooler lines?
    They look like 3/8” instead of 5/16” (but hard to tell for sure).

    You have a transmission cooler line bracket, not far from starter in first picture – which looks intriguing. I’m guessing it is make something like this?
    Bracket.png

    I like the way you put your oxygen sensor (right side). It looks like it fits right there.
    The transmission pan appears to be about level with exhaust (which is good).

    Did you paint your tie rods, like did with idler and pitman arms?

    Which front sway bar did you use?

    It looks like you re-used the /6 throttle cable (no complaint here – if you did).

    You spent a lot of time under the hood. My hat is off to you, sir.
    BudW
     
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  18. Justwondering

    Justwondering Well-Known Member

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    What he said ... It all looks suh-weet.
     
  19. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    You people are going to give me a swelled head, lol!
    The trans cooler lines are from Inline Tubing, made for a B-body big block/727. Only the forward portion had to be modified by making the bends a bit different, and cutting the flares/tube nuts off, re-flaring slightly for the hoses to the radiator.

    You got the cooler line bracket exactly. It started out as an old kick-down linkage lever (the one on the throttle valve at the trans). Cut down a little and a threaded hole added for the line clamp (rather than a nut and bolt). A longer oil pan bolt with a spacer for mounting.
    I tried to build the exhaust to sit as high as practical.
    Yep, tie rod ends are done (overdone?) the same as everything else.

    Sway bar and the frame brackets are the ones the car was built with. New bushings and end links obviously.
    The throttle cable is ???????? I got it from Rock Auto for probably a 360 4 brl F-body. Don't remember for sure anymore. The exit point from the firewall is moved and inch towards the center of the car and an inch higher than stock to clear the valve cover. Previously, with stock covers, I used the S6 cable which ran smack dab into the back of the MP covers. Had to move the throttle pedal over and up also to line up with the cable, which felt strange when driving the car but I got used to it. Used a hole saw and cut the "bump" with the square hole out, filled the original hole and rewelded it in the new position.

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  20. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Your set up is a lot like what my plans are.
    I like having things painted or coated. Keeps item easier to clean and to find things like dropped bolts.

    My cars will be getting 11¾” brakes, a bigger front sway bar, remote engine and transmission oil filters and maybe minor paint differences – but otherwise should look a lot like yours, when done.

    The only thing that worries me, now, is Right side engine access (spark plugs, rocker arms, etc.).
    BudW