Oil filter adapter

88_AHB

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Hey guys,
Was wondering what you guys are running for oil filter adapters? I'm running one on my 318 and its being problematic leaking.I've only been testing and tuning since the rebuild and drove it down the street a few times.Yet it has leaked two times already,took a socket to it and it seemed to stop the leak monetarily. I thought of getting a new gasket for the adapter or just get a new adapter itself.A chevy friend of mine says that those adapters weren't "engineered" to handle 60-70lbs of oil at cold startup etc.Only running this because of clearance issues with the headers.I cannot see a brand name on my current adapter, i'd assume its a cheap import or a knockoff of some sort.
 

XfbodyX

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What headers do you have? Its really easy to go back to the std side mount plate and just run a shorter filter, I can think of maybe 5 sizes that will fit all going down one step in size.

Or if you feel you need the side mount, just get the new kit and some hi tac and reseal it all. Your oil pressure is not extreme and if you recall every 340 with HP manifolds run one and many have more op then you do.

Ive several factory ones and for some reason they go for stupid money but to me there not worth $5.

You probably either have a older oem or the mopar performance unit as Im pretty sure there is no cheap knockoff to be bought and used.

On the 90 degree adapter its not as much as getting it gorilla tight, its getting it sealed and tight the first time. If its leaked chances are you wont seal it by keep putting tq on it.

Do you know if you have the big bolt with the holes or slots in it?

Anyway, if you can provide a bit more info it might be easier to narrow down a solid fix.
 

88_AHB

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Sorry I left out some info,
They're headman ceramic street full length headers which is the same design I believe as the summit and hooker ones.The adapter does have the big bolt and the holes in it I believe two I'll have to pull it and see.

I'm not against using using the standard mount as long as it would clear with say a shorter style of filter? I did put new gaskets in when I put this all back together.But perhaps I over torqued them or the gasket didn't seal right from the get go?
 

XfbodyX

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If it were me id just run the std straight plate and a shorter filter, I always would let the header collector cool and wrap a towl around it to soak up the oil that will drip down but when its free of the threaded inlet its easy to keep it turned up and snake it out the top.

Weather the large bolt has the holes or slots really dont matter, ones a older style.

Brain fart right now but I can look in the shop what short filters I use, I buy a case every couple years.

If you go back to the normal plate I can post a simple pic where you just go around the diameter of the oem, what 4 holes and drill 4 more for a bit more flow.

Sounds like all else is working and thats super! This is a easy issue in the big picture.
 

88_AHB

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I'd appreciate those filter numbers when you can.Now to to get standard plate does mopar performance still make one or one off the shelf at the parts store?
 

XfbodyX

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Hard to beat one like this.

VINTAGE OIL FILTER ADAPTER PLATE & SCREW IN NUT. 318, 340, 360 LA ENGINES. 70's. | eBay

You would just need to source the thick (approx 1/16 thick) rigid gasket that goes between the block and the plate. Not sure what others do but ive never had one leak and in fact have a fun time getting them off when needed but I use the tar like airplane gasket glue and just a thin layer you can even see through will seal it forever if ya got 100 psi. Red High Tac does the same. And lock-tite the plate/filter nut, obviously on the block side.

I will post some stuff in the am on the filters and such.
 

XfbodyX

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If you change your oil every 3k the short short one is the napa 1085, I use the napa 1068 (a hair longer then the 1085) with 1 3/4 tti-s and 1 5/8 headman and if its a driver or just to run a Fram ph43.

You can cross reference the napa to a better quality filter lke there gold, ect.

In the pics you can see the two diff gaskets, one thick, one thin, I do like the thick one because it give a bit more draw pressure on the plate.

All pretty basic.

DSC00078.JPG


DSC00079.JPG


DSC00080.JPG


DSC00081.JPG


DSC00082.JPG
 

Duke5A

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Dude, put a filter relocation kit on that car. One of the most giant things I always hated about small blocks was how much of a pain in the ass the filter was to get to. Even worse with headers. Guaranteed to get oil on headers that needed to be cleaned every time you pulled the filter.

IMG_4217.jpg


I know it's not easy to see, but my Dad relocated the filter to the front of passenger side. I can get some photos of the bracket if you're interested.
 

XfbodyX

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Remote filters are nice but the "kits" are a 1/2 way there to doing it all correct. Drilling and tapping the block for a npt fitting (one is already done) that the external line connects directly to is really the low risk way and the prefered way by many. Not much love for the adapter with the gasket. Good coated headers wipe clean easily.

Alot of choices.

But for reference, the top pic is oem, the lower pic is drilled and tapped. Simple, one in, one out. Either put the fittings flush or run up to a 2 inch extension from block to fitting. And of course the large unused center now gets a threaded plug.

I might add on the top pic, oem, it does have a threaded plug in the hole opposite the ink pen, ive just not put it in yet.

DSC00087.JPG


DSC00088.JPG
 
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ZieglerSpeed

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90 degree adapters were SO common in the last years of 318 carburetor cars, aluminum, where 273, 340's were c. iron. I don't care for the filter close to header heat without an adapter. When the adapter leaked, I was screwing something up every time. Get the adapter gasket kit -3 gaskets and the gasket against the bolt head has to be metal clad
 

XfbodyX

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In the end whatever the op does is fine, but I will point out that a smaller filter near the header has little to no bearing on oil temp as long as there is a 1/8 air gap with the filter on which there has to be or the filter would never start. The filter case is not a heat sink and oil travels very quickly through the filter.

I can base this on real world oil temps with the oem side mount setup and even in one case a 1/2 filled block on the street with a oil cooler and without.

I used to be hard core on the "you must use the 90 filter mount" thats why I have a box of them sitting collecting dust on the shelf. If anything the only real benefit is its a bit easier to change the filter and only used by mopar to make manifold room.

Many like to delete the 90 unit because it also removes two 90 turns the oil has to make.

Good luck whatever you decide to do.
 
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M_Body_Coupe

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Ahh....90-deg filter setup...eh?

OK, I've got some pics here to help with the visualisation efforts...

#1
This is the FSM page for the factory install

#2
This is the base gasket, Felpro #70522

#3
This is the kit Ehrenberg used to set on the Bay

My install has been leak free since I put the darn thing on. Has it been worth it? Umm...not sure, it's alwys been a PITA either way you go at it...I kinda like Mark's idea of relocating it somewhere else...just not sure that I want the extra plumbing....hmmm...

90 Deg Adapter Scan.jpg


90_deg_filter_adapter-GASKET-FELPRO.JPG


OilAdapterGaskets.jpg
 

volare 77

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I`m pretty sure the mopar gasket was thicker then the felpro. I like to use the thicker one also. I have TTI headers and I eliminated the adapter on mine. It seems like oil will get on the headers either way. One thing I found out. When you tighten the adapter down to the block and it still doesn`t seem like the adapter is tight enough then check the length of the big bolt. I found that some were a little longer then the others and it would keep the adapter from getting tight enough to prevent leaks. I shortened it some and all was fine. If the adapter still can be moved by hand once tightened then it will leak. You shouldn`t be able to move it once tightened. The only advantage I see from using the 90 degree is the filter is a little easier to remove.
 
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88_AHB

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If you change your oil every 3k the short short one is the napa 1085, I use the napa 1068 (a hair longer then the 1085) with 1 3/4 tti-s and 1 5/8 headman and if its a driver or just to run a Fram ph43.

You can cross reference the napa to a better quality filter lke there gold, ect.

In the pics you can see the two diff gaskets, one thick, one thin, I do like the thick one because it give a bit more draw pressure on the plate.

All pretty basic.

View attachment 35310

View attachment 35311

View attachment 35312

View attachment 35313

View attachment 35314
You know the part numbers for the two gaskets you have there?
 

Duke5A

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@XfbodyX has the ticket. Mivht be hard to do on a motor already in a car though. If anyone is interested here is some more photos of my Dad's setup. Bracket holding the oil filter adapter was custom made.

20190622_133332.jpg


20190622_133343.jpg


20190622_133355.jpg
 

BudW

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Duke5A, I have a tip for your dad (which he may or might not know).
Someone told me about it on my 5.9L Cummins in my ’97 Dodge pickup and it works wonders. That engine uses a huge oil filter (holds at least 1.3-quart oil).
The tip is to get a 1-gallon Ziploc baggie. Loosen the filter a bit, place bag under filter and pull up. Hold bag firmly and still while unscrewing the filter. Let filter fall into the bag. Zip it up and you have a mess-free filter change with a “oil-free” (ie: not slippery) surface to extract the loose filter from truck.
Otherwise, you will get a lot of oil on you and entire area of the truck – sense the filter can’t be removed without tilting it significantly. It is the only way I’ll change the oil on that truck, now.
Your dad has a lot more room than I have, plus the filter is a lot smaller (might get by with a smaller baggie).
iu5V8YTOED.jpg

Oil filter location (white circle). A/C compressor location (yellow circle)
iuDXKM68IC.jpg

Both pictures are not from '97 pickups, but the affected area is the same.


I’ve been considering (not done anything yet) placing an external engine oil filter for my big blocks outside of the engine compartment because of there is no good way to change the filter on those (torsion bars, P/S pump, radiator and battery are in way). Then doing something similar for an external transmission filter for other side (before or maybe after its been cooled).
20171116_113848 R.jpg

This is looking in front of the L/F tire, under fender area (under battery) in bumper shock area. J-body will be a bit different. I was thinking about building a “L” or a “U” shaped bracket around the bumper shock to support my filter adaptor. The filter will be mostly hidden and still accessible. This might work for R/F area as well.


Out of all of the engine work I’ve done; I have only replaced two small block 90’ oil filter adaptors in my life. One cast iron (340) and one aluminum (M-body 318). Both were performed using Chrysler gaskets – which might be the reason they came out leak free. The engines were being changed, so I was transferring parts over before engine went into the car – which might be another why they were leak-free (me shrugs).

If you are changing adapter seals, try to “test fit” of an oil filter with existing headers to see if it might fit, before bolting adapter in place. I have heard of people having less leaks with the flat-plate adapter.

Also, I wouldn’t worry about having the filter close to exhaust headers.
Now, having a filter close by a catalytic converter is another issue. Those cats start to work around 1,000’ F (538’ C) and sometimes can get cherry red when in operation. When engine is running, I don’t see a problem, but after shut-off, the oil in filter can start cooking.
BudW
 

lowbudget

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Wow a Cummins tip here on the site. I will try the baggie trick on my next days off! Thanks.
 
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