Shorty Thompson
Well-Known Member
Milodon oil pans in question . Which 1 fits the F,M,or J body cars ? Is it the 30935 , or the 30936 ? Thanks in advance
Oil pan question
- Thread starter Shorty Thompson
- Start date
The Milodon 30935 and 30936 both “should” fit your car.
Due to engine mount wear/sag and production clearances, one may have to hammer (or massage) dings/dents into pan for clearance and/or notch (or massage) the K-Frame – both of which are not easy to check (or fix) in car.
In my case, I have plans on installing a big block into each of my cars.
Oil is the life blood of the engine, and without enough – well you get the picture (which is why you are increasing the pan size yourself).
What I will be doing is measuring the distance of all 4 K-frame bolt locations (not the bolt heads but the flat surface at the by mount) and measure the distance of transmission mount – to level ground.
Using those measurements, I will make a Jig to mount my spare K-frame onto. Then I will know exactly how my oil pan will fit and how much “it” (“it” being pan and/or K-Frame) will need to be modified - as well as external oil pickup lines, transmission cooler lines, etc.), beforehand.
Then after all is done, I can then get K-Frame welded/strengthened and assemble it all together for a seamless install.
Note: When I make the change, my plans is to rebuild my “spare” K-Frame, install big block and transmission onto that K-Fame. Unbolt the existing K-Frame, with 318/904 attached. Raise body of car up, wheel old K-frame/engine out from under car, wheel in the new K-frame/engine, then drop body down onto new K-Frame.
Then repeat everything for the next car.
No two K-Frames are welded up exactly the same. This way my “max capacity” oil pan will fit the correct K-Frame used, without having to “make it fit” after everything is painted and looking nice.
Note: there is a good change, that if the above part number does fit your car without issue(s) then it might not fit the next person with same combination (or vice versa).
BudW
Due to engine mount wear/sag and production clearances, one may have to hammer (or massage) dings/dents into pan for clearance and/or notch (or massage) the K-Frame – both of which are not easy to check (or fix) in car.
In my case, I have plans on installing a big block into each of my cars.
Oil is the life blood of the engine, and without enough – well you get the picture (which is why you are increasing the pan size yourself).
What I will be doing is measuring the distance of all 4 K-frame bolt locations (not the bolt heads but the flat surface at the by mount) and measure the distance of transmission mount – to level ground.
Using those measurements, I will make a Jig to mount my spare K-frame onto. Then I will know exactly how my oil pan will fit and how much “it” (“it” being pan and/or K-Frame) will need to be modified - as well as external oil pickup lines, transmission cooler lines, etc.), beforehand.
Then after all is done, I can then get K-Frame welded/strengthened and assemble it all together for a seamless install.
Note: When I make the change, my plans is to rebuild my “spare” K-Frame, install big block and transmission onto that K-Fame. Unbolt the existing K-Frame, with 318/904 attached. Raise body of car up, wheel old K-frame/engine out from under car, wheel in the new K-frame/engine, then drop body down onto new K-Frame.
Then repeat everything for the next car.
No two K-Frames are welded up exactly the same. This way my “max capacity” oil pan will fit the correct K-Frame used, without having to “make it fit” after everything is painted and looking nice.
Note: there is a good change, that if the above part number does fit your car without issue(s) then it might not fit the next person with same combination (or vice versa).
BudW
