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Positive battery cable replacement.

Interior and Electrical

  1. MBDale

    MBDale Well-Known Member

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    Mancini racing has replacement positive battery cables , but none for F body. What's the closest one a guy could use?? 72 A body would work??
     
  2. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    I doubt it. It is a long cable and snakes under the L/F engine mount.

    Need more information. What year and engne?
     
  3. MBDale

    MBDale Well-Known Member

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    1979 Aspen RT. With a 360.
     
  4. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    If it has a 100 amp alternator (which I doubt) the OE part number is 4055391
    If without 100 amp alternator, the OE part number is 4055168
    FMJ body only part

    I then did a brief search for either of the above part numbers and didn’t find anything.

    For giggles, I looked up and the positive battery cable for an ’82 M or J body 318, which is 4274210.
    A brief search also didn’t find anything.

    I did find some cables that might be able to be adapted to fit, on eBay.

    Our cars have a quick disconnect on them that narrows down the availability of interchange for them.

    All of the used ones I’ve found in last many years has had the battery end cut off for battery extraction. It takes me just about the same time to remove it the correct way than to cut them – especially when they remove the ends to resell the batteries (double work form them).

    If you find one, let me know. Actually I would like to know what you do end up doing on the car.

    BudW
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2016
  5. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    I used a repop from Year One for a '68-'70 B-body big block. They have small block as well. Not sure what the difference is (length?). Other than the quick disconnect, it fit perfectly. Got the body power feed running to an underhood fuse/relay panel anyways, so didn't need the it. Also had to change from a eyelet style connector to a spade terminal at the starter relay on the firewall. Spliced to the original wire/terminal.
    You could cut the connector off your old one and solder then use some red heat shrink possibly.

    It was this cable:
    1966-74 A B E-Body Positive Battery Cable

    DSCF0001.JPG DSCF0002.JPG
     
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  6. Dr Lebaron

    Dr Lebaron Well-Known Member

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  7. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Note: I do not know that the ’82 part will fit, directly. I suspect it should, but don’t know that it will.

    I will compare my ’77 F to my ’86 M when I get home and will report back.

    BudW
     
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  8. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Edit: You might be able to make anything fit – it just depends on how much work you are willing to do.
    My goal is to make the least amount of work for you.

    I’ve never liked replacing the end of them (the lead part) for it may work for a short time – but always comes back with problems in the long run. I prefer to fix it for good, the first time.

    BudW
     
  9. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    I took pictures of my ‘77 and ‘86 (318's).
    The positive battery cable P/N on my ‘86 is 4274218 (the same P/N until ‘89 (end of M body production)).

    The first three pictures are from my ‘77 Volare 318 2 bbl.
    20160721_205727.jpg 20160721_205740.jpg
    20160721_205800.jpg

    These are from my ‘86 5th Ave 318 2 bbl.
    20160721_205900.jpg 20160721_205917.jpg 20160721_205934.jpg

    I would say they are the same cable. I would also assume the ‘82 cable (mentioned in above posts) would also be the same - but can’t verify.

    I found this picture on eBay. Without knowing how long your original cable is and how long this replacement cable is, I think you can make this one work,
    You would need to cut the tape and cut off the solenoid wire off from of the starter connector. Then tape it onto the new cable.
    One would also need to cut off the electrical plug-in, by the battery and solder in place of the already half crimped on connector on replacement wire.
    s-l1600.jpg

    I have a “in rough/poor condition” positive battery cable in my garage from an ‘84 318 4 bbl M body - but it will take me a long time to find it.
     
  10. Justwondering

    Justwondering Well-Known Member

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    BudW -
    Your post made me smile this morning.:)

    I have this image of you sitting at the door of the garage completely lined with shelving, stuffed and overflowing with current and future project parts.

    My bedroom closet has the same arrangement ... lol
     
  11. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    If replacing the terminal end is the only option, at least use a style such as the one in the pic and never those crappy ones with the strap and 2 bolts.
    There are also ones similar to the pic but come with a solder slug. You strip the end of the wire, put the slug over it and then into the tin plated copper terminal. Heat with a torch to melt the solder and it's 90% as good as a factory molded in place terminal. They work very well.

    battery terminal.jpg
     
  12. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Amen brother.
    Those will keep a person busy for years, just working on those replacement terminals.

    They work OK, if you are only trying to pawn the vehicle onto the next person.
    DEK-00370_2_lg.jpg
     
  13. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    I put those terminal ends in "the temporary it'll get you home" category. Amazing how many vehicles get towed in for a no crank or slow crank/no start and you pop the hood and a pair of those things are staring you in the face, all corroded to crap. Poor connection besides not passing enough current to engage the starter also don't allow the current form the alternator to pass into the battery. If the starter does engage there isn't enough voltage or amperage to even run the fuel pump much less the ignition. First thing we do is throw them in the scrap metal bin and put on a set of the style I showed in the pic. To replace the battery cables on most cars nowdays is economically unfeasable. The cables are usually integrated together (positive and negative) or worse, into another wiring harness. Some are $200, $300 or more so unless the cable itself is shot,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,new terminal ends is the best option.

    Back to the question with another question. Wonder how hard it would be for the companies that make the other repop cables to start offering F/M/J ones as well as later B body? Maybe one day when they figure out that there's a lot of F/M/J in the world that need replacement parts that are currently unobtainium either used or NOS.
     
  14. Dr Lebaron

    Dr Lebaron Well-Known Member

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    I would figure out which part number is needed, go to a good dealer and run the number on their search.
    Some how I think the early Dakotas where close enough.
     
  15. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    For what it's worth, the p/n for a '79 F-body V-8 is 4055168 and my catalog has 4205923 hand written next to the other number (superceded part???)
    Checked Parts Voice and the only one that came up (4055168) was our "friends" at Brads NOS. They claim to have one and it says "not yet priced" so I wouldn't waste my time with that one.

    Looked at my Dakota ('96) and the cable is similar but would still need quite a few modifications to work.
     
  16. 7T8 Custom

    7T8 Custom Well-Known Member

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    I put in a request for a price to your buddy Brad. I`ll post what I get IF I get a response.Not holding my breath.
     
  17. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    My buddy, lol! If he gives a price it'll probably be really high and someone orders it, I'd bet almost anything it would never show up,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but I'm not bitter.