Power Window Transplant

[Leizurtime]

Anyone ever put power windows into a crank window car? I have a 77 Plymouth Volare Wagon and there is a 77 Diplomat 4 door car at a local junkyard with Power windows. My understanding is the doors will swap and I wonder if anyone has ever transplanted power windows before. This would be an excellent modification if I could figure it out. Much obliged for any input.

 

[7T8 Custom]

I swapped in power windows and door locks into my two door aspen crank window car. You will need the wiring harness all the way back to the fuse block and be prepared to tear down the whole dash and a good part of the rest of the interior to run all the harnesses for a four door.

 

[Leizurtime]

I swapped in power windows and door locks into my two door aspen crank window car. You will need the wiring harness all the way back to the fuse block and be prepared to tear down the whole dash and a good part of the rest of the interior to run all the harnesses for a four door.

The doors appear to have wiring inside, but somebody already robbed all the window switches Still, the doors are in way better shape than mine. Is it a stand alone harness from the doors to the fuse block?

 

[7T8 Custom]

Mine was . Separate fuse/circuit breaker for the power window/door lock circuits. You can check here Mopar Parts - jopar.ca for a couple of the single door switches. Search on the misc. parts page for them but he only has two. You can also try Jim's Az Parts as it wouldn`t surprise me if he has a full set.

 

[Cordoba1]

Do a search on ebay for "Power Window Kit." -- I have never tried these, am a little skeptical, but could be an option!

 

[BudW]

The wiring harness install is the hard part, especially for a more door vehicle – but is very doable.

The window regulators are different (between power and non-power).
Most, if not all, F & M body window regulators are pop riveted in. Why pop rivets (cheaper to build and faster assembly line install). Take a small punch and tap the metal pop rivet center pin out. Then take a ¼” drill bit/drill and drill the aluminum rivets out - a pretty quick job.
To install – either get ¼” pop rivets and a LARGE pop rivet gun and have at it (takes me longer to squeeze off the new riots than anything else regulator related), or use bolts.

You can use ¼” bolts, either ½” or ¾” long, and nuts and install them, if you wish (if your newly acquired regulators do not already use bolts).

Any F or M body 4 door (or station wagon) uses the same window regulator system through the years (’76-89). The wiring harness might be slightly different, but if using the harness from donor car, it won’t matter what year harness you use - with one exception. The newer M bodies have switches in door arm rests and older ones and F bodies have them in the doors. The wiring harness connector and switches may be slightly different. Easy enough to fix with aftermarket window switch pigtails and the proper switches.
Note: station wagon uses different rear doors and door glass – but regulators and harness is the same.

Door panels are the same on cars and after you remove the door panel, you will see a square/rectangle cut out on door panels for switch placement. Be sure to get the square/rectangle metal bracket from old door panels for switch placement (it will make more sense after looking at back side of a door panel – trust me).

If you get a harness with power door locks and don’t plan on installing them, no problem, just leave the extra connectors alone.

At one time, power window switches are/were available aftermarket (may have to order, possibly).
BudW

 

[Leizurtime]

The wiring harness install is the hard part, especially for a more door vehicle – but is very doable.

The window regulators are different (between power and non-power).
Most, if not all, F & M body window regulators are pop riveted in. Why pop rivets (cheaper to build and faster assembly line install). Take a small punch and tap the metal pop rivet center pin out. Then take a ¼” drill bit/drill and drill the aluminum rivets out - a pretty quick job.
To install – either get ¼” pop rivets and a LARGE pop rivet gun and have at it (takes me longer to squeeze off the new riots than anything else regulator related), or use bolts.

You can use ¼” bolts, either ½” or ¾” long, and nuts and install them, if you wish (if your newly acquired regulators do not already use bolts).

Any F or M body 4 door (or station wagon) uses the same window regulator system through the years (’76-89). The wiring harness might be slightly different, but if using the harness from donor car, it won’t matter what year harness you use - with one exception. The newer M bodies have switches in door arm rests and older ones and F bodies have them in the doors. The wiring harness connector and switches may be slightly different. Easy enough to fix with aftermarket window switch pigtails and the proper switches.
Note: station wagon uses different rear doors and door glass – but regulators and harness is the same.

Door panels are the same on cars and after you remove the door panel, you will see a square/rectangle cut out on door panels for switch placement. Be sure to get the square/rectangle metal bracket from old door panels for switch placement (it will make more sense after looking at back side of a door panel – trust me).

If you get a harness with power door locks and don’t plan on installing them, no problem, just leave the extra connectors alone.

At one time, power window switches are/were available aftermarket (may have to order, possibly).
BudW

BudW, as always, thank you for your in depth input. I went out and I was ready to pull all the doors on the donor car. Unfortunately, I discovered that whoever took the switches also took the electric motors for all the windows. To add insult to injury, they cut out all the connectors in every door. I decided it would be to difficult to track down replacement wiring for every door. The only thing I can think of doing, is putting my crank windows into these donor doors. Is that possible? My doors are in really bad shape, and the donor car doors are without blemish. But you also said wagon rear doors are different. 4 door sedan and Wagon doors aren't identical?

 

[80mirada]

Replacement windows motors and gears are readily available, as are the motor connectors. I believe the switch connectors are also available

 

[Leizurtime]

Replacement windows motors and gears are readily available, as are the motor connectors. I believe the switch connectors are also available

I know motors are available at most parts stores. Where might one find switches and connectors readily available?

 

[BudW]

All of Chrysler power window motors from ‘63ish to early ‘90’s are the same, except are different from left to right. The exception to that is a difference in electrical connectors – they made 3 different connector styles in time span indicated, with one of those changes made in sometime in the mid the ‘80’s.

The electrical connectors (both sides) are available aftermarket and from Chrysler.

You can mix/match connectors as well, like style A on L/F, style B on L/R and Style C on both Right sides, for example. Don’t let that stop you from you goal. Just solder the electrical joint and shrink wrap it afterwards and you will be fine (slip on the shrink wrap tube before soldering!)


I have no earthly idea why Chrysler changed the rear doors (and glass) between the 4 door and station wagons. It makes no sense to me – but that is how they did it. The difference is rear edge of outer door edge and its sloop upwards. It also effects both door glasses (fixed and moving glass). The weatherstrip is also different.

If a person was to remove the top door frame and glass, then the whole lower half (2/3rds?) of the door is the same.

'77 F & M body part numbers:
Single window switch (for three doors)(up to 2/15/77) 2926118
Single window switch (after 2/15/77) 3747286
Note: the new and old style switches can be swapped without problems as the button is the only difference. If you don’t point the difference to anyone – no one will notice the difference between then.

Old style pictured first. Note this style is also used for the ‘60’s performance cars so may be hard to find an NOS one.

Convex vs. concave? Not sure how to describe the difference (or why the change).
The newer style came on fewer vehicles, but are not as sought out as the older ones are.

L/F (more door car – 4 switch) (up to 2/15/77) 2926117
L/F window switch (after 2/15/77) 3747288

I looked for aftermarket window switches just now and did not find any. I know I have seen them before (but many years back). Chrysler used the same power window switch for pretty much everything, until the early ‘80’s, even in pickups.

For connectors. If you find window motors (again for pretty much anything Chrysler made from mid ’60’s to early/mid ‘90’s, send me (or post here) picture of the electrical connector and I can provide you with part numbers from Chrysler or aftermarket.

If you are not sure what motors fit, then find some and post links here and I can give the thumbs up (or down). Sense you are missing the “other end” connector, the motor electrical connector type won’t matter.

Changing a window regulator is basically the same procedures (power or manual).
The only difference is if you remove the motor from a regulator out of car, is BE CAREFUL! The power behind that spring can/will sever fingers and launch parts and/or tools with quite some force.

In car, with weight of door glass counteracts the spring, then there is no problem.

I have seen cars with one door with a manual window regulator installed and door panel off, so at least the window would be up, in a power car.

BudW

 

[80mirada]

There were switches available through Year One awhile back but not sure if they are still available. The last time I needed a plug I bought some at NAPA, but they are available from some of the auto wiring websites.

 

[BudW]

The switch electrical connectors are also used on some older GM products.

I don’t like working with those switch connectors.
It is nice they pop apart for wire replacement/connector cleaning, but because they pop apart is the reason I don’t like them (pop apart to easy, like when trying to plug one in).

 

[7T8 Custom]

Marty at arizona parts shows both the single and 4-gang switches for post 77 in stock.