RH side mirror found ?

[Deleted member 1959]

I think this may fit my 79 LeBaron, although the description says 86-87.
After comparing pictures and my LH mirror they look identical.

Passenger Side RH Remote Control NOS MOPAR OSRV Mirror 86 87 Chrysler Plymouth | eBay

 

[Oldiron440]

It might be the remote control on the inside trim that is different..

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Yeah I was thinking that since I hardly ever adjust the mirrors after the initial adjust, I might just draw the cable inside the car and curl it up under the dash. I don´t like the thought of drilling a hole in my dash for the control pin anyway..

 

[Oldiron440]

In that case I'd mount it on the bottom of the dash or in glove box.

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Good idea. I´ll let the length of the cable decide where it ends up

 

[BudW]

The eBay listing does appear to be the correct part you need.

There is a spot on dash already pre-drilled (with a “D” shaped hole) on ALL F and M-body cars, for Right side mirror knob.

What is not pre-drilled is the two holes on front side of door or body side of door jamb – as well as holes on outer door skin.

If you remove the driver’s side (Left Front) door panel, you will see three holes pre-stamped on inner door frame – for the three mirror nuts.

The same three holes will be on the inner door frame – once you know where to look. These holes have to line up with mirror studs or you will have a hard time attaching the mirror.

My recommendation is to unscrew the Left outer mirror from door – but not remove completely. With the help of a friend (to prevent paint damage), make a paper outline/template from front of door and top of door with all of the different holes (you might have to cut out a slot in template for the cables). Also record the different size hole diameters.
They use one (or two - I can't remember) plastic clips to help hold the inner mirror reinforcement in place with. These small clips are optional.

With that template – go to other side door and mark it for drilling.

With one of the nuts from Left side – use it to find three nuts for the Right side.

The next hard item is to find the plastic gasket and metal support bracket that goes inside of the door (reinforcement – which is important to have in place).


There is a knockout on R/F door for mirror cable (black arrow), so a person can drill or take a hammer and punch can knock that small piece of metal out. A person could also use a holesaw slightly smaller size and drill it out. After drilled or knocked out, take a file and smooth out any sharp edges. It might be easier to do with R/F tire removed and fender shield removed.

The cabin side of door jamb may have two or three knockouts on it. One is for radio antenna (if equipped). One is for electrical wiring harness (the big hole). I need a mirror to see the third hole on my car but it should be there (so no photograph of it). If you can't find it, you can make a hole of the same diameter of the mirror grommet on the jamb somewhere - just make sure there is nothing behind it to cause an issue.
In my case - with no power windows or door locks, I would use the wiring hole and make a smaller hole on it (red arrows).

Lastly, there is a hole that needs to be made to the panel under the steering column, with a plastic trim ring to be added. The hole is already marked on back side of the panel for location – but it is easy enough to find a panel with hole (and trim ring) already in place, and in a matching color.

I did forget to take pictures of these parts - but will later tonight.

Note, my '77 wagon did not come with a Right side mirror, as well. I have a NOS mirror to install - so I will be performing the same procedures, when the time comes.
BudW

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Hi Bud.

Thanks for the very detailed info on how to install the mirror - it´s going to look great and I do miss a right side mirror when driving.

I can see I need to get the door panels off. I cant find any useful info about it in Haynes. Can you tell me how to do it without breaking anything ?

I had it sent to a guy I met on the Chrysler M-body group on FB, so right now its in NJ; waiting for his Danish friends to visit in April. They will bring it to Denmark when they come back - no shipping or taxes

 

[BudW]

It helps to get some plastic trim tools – to prevent damaging the paint or other things.
A big metal screwdriver works great – as long as you are not wanting to protect the metal door or door panel – but for most of us – that option can be avoided (it will bend the door metal, can remove paint and can tear out the door panel clips).

These are from a company called Harbor Freight – but can be found from a lot of other sources.

Plastic

Stainless steel version (but I would still wrap a little tape around the metal edges to prevent scratching the paint).

I attached pages from my ’86 FSM (Factory Service Manual) for both door trim panel removal and for door mirror removal (below) – but it does not show a good picture of the door panel clips.

The door trim panels on our cars are made out of cardboard-like material, which is vinyl covered. The back side of panel has little cutouts for wire retaining clips. A person needs to get a trim tool to surround both sides of the clips – or the clips will tear out the cardboard backing (which is not good).

Once you know how to do it, it goes fairly quick. I have ruined a number of door trim panels for getting in a hurry.

If I remember, I’ll take some pictures of what the clips look like and the cardboard-like material used, when I get off of work, today.
BudW

 

[Oldiron440]

Its actually nice to have both sets in the tool box.

 

[BudW]

I have two different sets of the plastic ones (blue set, above, and a yellow set). 2/3rds of them have never been used. Of the plastic set I posted above, the two middle ones are used often.

I hadn’t seen the stainless one yet (or before).
The two on Left side looks like would be very helpful (and is just what Toro67 needs).

They only reason I mention Harbor Freight is because there is a store 3/4ths of a mile from my home. Matter of fact, I’ve been there twice this morning.
Their tools do come from China and are cheap (or really cheap, in more ways than one).
For occasional use – it’s fine.
For full time use – spend your money elsewhere.
BudW

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Hi Bud
I do have a set of the plastic tools (probably from China). The panel seems to be stuck tight to the door frame, but now I know how to start when I get the mirror.
It´s the same type as many other panels I have taken off in the past and ruined some cardboards as well - we call the material Masonite. If the clips are plastic they break easily, even with the use of tools. On my 67 Toronado the clips were metal and more durable.

 

[BudW]

Chrysler didn’t start to use plastic door panel clips until later on. These are metal (what I call a bent wire looking clip)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DMT-MOPAR-Chrysler-Dodge-Plymouth-Door-Panel-Clips-Trim-Panel-Retainers-20pcs/361465211226?fits=Make%3ADodge&hash=item542901695a:g:mCkAAOSwnipWXked&vxp=mtr

BudW

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Ok they look like they have a good grip on the panel, so less chance of breaking something when I take it apart. I will only do it once to minimize risk of damage, so I will wait for the mirror.
I do miss having some speakers in the doors though, but I won´t vandalise the panels. It would be great if they were made the same way the rear shelf is. There is a thin layer of carpet covering it, so I could install a pair of speakers without cutting visible holes in the shelf.
However, the door panel does have the same carpet covering the bottom half of it, so maybe once the panel is off I can fit "invisible" speakers behind the carpet

 

[BudW]

Everyone has an opinion on speakers and rarely are any two opinions the same.

The factory dual front speaker system – has very limited venders who make replacements. Any original speakers (used or NOS) will not be of much value (deteriorated due to age). Even if you find a pair of good ones, they are so small that output is almost nil. The Passenger side location can be cut bigger (for a bigger speaker, but driver’s side cannot.

What I have seen other people do (and cons to each).
If you have a front single speaker, you can remove the speaker and make an outline of it on paper – for a template. Make an adaptor for it to place a pair of larger (but still small) speakers under the dash. Pros: it will be invisible and no cutting of the car is performed. Cons: It requires some fabrication on your end and there is not much of a stereo effect.

Mount a pair of aftermarket front speakers to outside of front kick panels (the part under both sides of dash that holds carpet down and hides the side sheet metal). Pros: works great for many people and is almost not visible. Cons: it damages the kick panels (which is not too hard to find replacements) and limited space by the parking brake petal.

Build a mini console under dash/on top of transmission hump. Pros: no damage or alternation made to car. Cons: looks out of place and requires modification skills on your part.

Mount a pair of speakers under front seats. Pros: completely hidden. Depending on speakers used, you can really feel the bass. Cons: speakers need to be amplified – for they have to work harder to get “sound” to you due to insulation (seat foam, upholstery, etc.).

Mount speakers into door. There are numerous methods to do this and almost all methods ruin door panels to do so. Be sure to check for space (for speaker) with door glass in full up position as well as full down. If you use speakers with exposed grills – check to see if they are in a location that might be kicked upon entering/exiting cars – for I have seen (a lot of) door panels damaged from that.

I do not recommend mounting the speaker to the door/trim panel itself – for the weight will make the panel warp/sag/distort over time. Instead make a bracket and attach bracket to door frame to mount speaker to. That way the speaker weight is not supported by the panel.

You mentioned possibly cutting the panel behind the carpet. I like your thinking and this might be a great way to go. I do recommend finding and attaching something to the panel (or speaker) like a metal net, mesh or something – so something doesn’t poke a hole into, or through, the carpet (damaging the carpet/panel and/or speaker).

In the trunk, the factory rear speakers are not very big nor very popular size. What many people do is mount bigger speakers in trunk using a spacer of ½” (13 mm – or so) of plywood or similar material – then drill new holes to support the bigger speaker and spacers (inside trunk). I have found no advantage to cutting the speaker holes larger.
The package tray (the cardboard like material between rear seat and back glass, should have speaker holes/slots punched in it – but may have insulation under it to so rear speakers don’t show – possibly. I can’t remember how those look, exactly. The Con to adding bigger rear speakers is you might not be able to put spare tire into its normal location – in many cases.
BudW

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Curiosity got the better of me , so I took off the door panel to see what´s what concerning speaker and mirror installation. It was much easier than I expected. One screw at the door handle and one on the arm rest. Then there was just the clips which were easy to get off with the plastic tool. They are metal and kind of bajonet-shaped.
Then removed the knockout plates on both the door and the body and installed gaskets to protect the cable from the metal edges. So I am ready for the mirror when it comes next month.

Regarding speakers I gave up trying to cut the panel behind the carpet. The carpet is pretty thick, so it will muffle the sound, and I am afraid that if I cut the panel from behind I will cut the carpet too. It is glued to the panel so I can not be taken off before cutting. Besides the hole in the door frame is only 4 by 5" so it will be tight.
I tried looking for very flat speakers to mount on the kick panel, but it will look odd, and as you say, space on the drivers side is very limited. Cutting a hole in the panels is not an option - I took one off and there simply isn´t enough room in the frame.
So I went for the under front seat option. This was not easy since I want the speakers to have a clear "view" from under the seat, and the passenger side only has a clearing of 4x4" due to a bump in the floor design. I did finally find a pair of angled Pioneer speakers:

In the trunk I installed 4x6" speakers some time ago. Only one original speaker was installed on the drivers side, and it was not working. I just had to get a new set, and cut a thin layer of cardboard away on the passengers side, and they fit right in - also room for the spare tyre. From inside they are completely invisible thanks to a premade grill cutout - works great.
The new speakers should be here tomorrow, so I can try them out.

 

[BudW]

The door trim panel removal is not that difficult – once you know the tricks.

The plastic sheet / weather barrier is important to have in place – but one can be made fairly easily and with some tape (if yours is missing or ripped beyond reuse.

The blue circle is where the three mirror nuts go through. You will need a socket, a long ¼” drive extension and ratchet.
With door glass up – it is fairly easy to attach the nuts through the three holes present – at an upwards angle.
BudW