Looking for some help, I've got a cop 904 variant, which to the best of my knowledge is an A999. How do I differentiate that for sure without busting it open and counting clutches. Second, I'll be pulling said transmission soon..is it really as simple as everyone says (remove linkage/lines, support engine, remove crossmember, driveshaft, bellhousing bolts and flywheel bolts) Lastly, while it's only coming out to address a leak at the back of the engine, would it be better if I just went ahead and had it prepped for the 360. Meaning, rebuilt, new converter, etc. My understanding is the balancing is only relative to the engine (i.e. flywheel) so the converter and such should be fine with either 318 or 360. Is that correct? Thanks in advance.
Removing and installation takes not a lot of time and effort. You must have done it once and then it goes smoothly. As a beginner, it took me around 4-5 hours, including chatting and taking a break (Even the day after I had a car accident). The only things are to first disconnect the torque converter for further disassembly. Take a photo/note of how the speedometer was mounted in the trans. Turning the bellhousing bolts back into the transmission / engine again saves time and flying bolts through shop.
Looking for some help, I've got a cop 904 variant, which to the best of my knowledge is an A999. How do I differentiate that for sure without busting it open and counting clutches. Second, I'll be pulling said transmission soon..is it really as simple as everyone says (remove linkage/lines, support engine, remove crossmember, driveshaft, bellhousing bolts and flywheel bolts) Lastly, while it's only coming out to address a leak at the back of the engine, would it be better if I just went ahead and had it prepped for the 360. Meaning, rebuilt, new converter, etc. My understanding is the balancing is only relative to the engine (i.e. flywheel) so the converter and such should be fine with either 318 or 360. Is that correct? Thanks in advance. Here is some easy trans ID info. Fender Tag for what it should be. Then the pan rail with the PN vs the parts book and the parts book replacement (I will post later, details a bit more on the 904/998/999. Let me get pics. Here is an example of a 998 which may or may not have the extra part, a 999 would.
You might be looking for this PN below. Look for your converter number as well. A 318 vert is non weighted, a 360 requires a weighted vert. What motor are you using?
I am still using the 318, but will be going to a 360 hopefully next winter. Here are my tags, I'm not seeing the code you've referenced.
Wow, on your tags, sorry on that. What year car is yours? None the less I know the trans pics with the PN area will be the same format. I will confess after 79 the tags make no sense to me.
For the later to come 360, you can use a neutral balance converter IF you use an aftermarket flex plate that takes care of the external balance needs of a 360. For lessening of frustration later, mark one of the holes in the flex plate and the corresponding point on the converter. The holes are offset and will only line up in one position and marking one will make life much better when going back together.
Later Magnum 5.9 flex plates have a counter weight on them, but they do not have the offset convertor hole.
Second row from bottom, Right side is ELE which is the engine code (“S” 5.2L 4-bbl police). Above that is DGA which is the transmission code. ’86 M’s came with four different transmissions: 4412001 318 2-bbl (ELA) A998 Lockup 2.24 ratio (differential) – which is what is in my Fifth Ave. 4412002 318 4-bbl (ELD) A999 Lockup 2.24 ratio 4348703 318 4-bbl police (ELE) A999 Lockup 2.94 ratio – which “should” what you have. 4412560 318 4-bbl (ELD) A727 Lockup 2.24 ratio with Low stall converter (this is for trailer towing packages or taxi). One of the above four part numbers should be stamped on side of case (as shown above) – unless the transmission has been replaced before – which is a possibility. Once a car leaves the factory warranty, most fleet departments will use “used parts” which could be “who knows what it came out of”. BudW
After reading more about it, the ’86 A999’s all use the same governor. The difference is the springs and valving inside of the valve body. BudW
I had leaned toward either the 998 or 999, just didnt know how to tell them apart. Side note.. what other codes from either tag can you discern? Im hoping I can get out there this weekend and pull it to address the backside of the engine. I feel like I should at least do a fluid/ filter change.. but I've heard horror stories of doing that to very old transmissions (if factory it has roughly 200k at this point)
Those horror stories you hear are about transmission flushes. Dropping the pan and replacing the filter should be done if the mileage calls for it.
Not to ask a stupid question, but would I not be replacing the fluid when changing the filter? If so, would that not be comparable to a flush?
A998 is light duty and A999 is heavy duty. A904 is a good generic term that works well to describe all three versions. There are a variety of transmission flush methods out there. Basically, what most shops will do is disconnect a transmission cooler line (at radiator, or wherever) and run hoses to a machine. Either push a button and the machine sucks fluid out from on end and inserts either clean (or new) fluid through the other end. Eventually most fluid in transmission will be “exchanged”. My thoughts are the filter is left alone for this process. The filter (in my opinion) a big item to replace. The other big item is to adjust the rear band, which can not be done any other way. Both bands should be adjusted every 30k miles, or so. The only downside to dropping the pan and changing filter/adjusting the bands, is about ½ of all the fluid is not changed – which is what is remaining inside of the torque converter. A hybrid method using both methods would be best. First step is to change filter and adjust bands. Then hook the flusher out and exchange the rest of the fluid out. The problem is if you are paying someone, that is double the cost! Not many people have access to transmission flush equipment. I have seen many a transmission die because of a stopped-up filter. I also see no reason to change fluid and leave the filter alone (makes no sense, plus refer to the previous sentence). If you drop the oil pan down and find a lot of metal debris present, then stop. Some debris and fine metal shavings are normal (a thimble full, or so). Tablespoons full – NO. There are a lot of horror stories out there. Some true, many are not. Not sure what you mean, by this. I was going to find out for you, sense you've been here a while - but it will take me a couple of days to do. BudW
I forgot about the fluid in the converter..that makes sense. What I mean about roughly 200k is this..at the time the engine was changed (by choice, not necessity) the car had about 196k. Shortly after changing the engine, I started my dash swap. Which at this point I've not had a working speedometer for close to 4 years due to various issues. (I do plan on reinstalling a new gear and housing while it's out, so that I can see it gets set in correctly) During that time, I've driven the car a bit, and dad has used it as a daily for a few months at a time..and he drives it constantly. No rush on those codes Bud, I just hadnt had any luck finding anything but the AHB, engine and paint codes.
