Throttle Control Module Guts

[Justwondering]

Has anyone ever taken apart a Throttle control module that might have failed in your Suburban - Yukon from 2003 ?

I'm not gonna be able to resist taking this thing apart to see what is in the magical black box.

I fixed two trouble codes by replacing 1) packrat chewed wire and 2) Throttle sensor but now have the 'its your throttle control module dummy' message so I'm thinking I'm taking this apart while I look for its replacement for less tha 120 bucks (tmd1-160a1)

Just Wondering.

 

[Justwondering]

In case you are curious, you can't just snip off the extruded plastic drops that are pushed through the holes on each side of the metal base. Doesn't free anything up.

You can use a ginsu knife to ream out the glue that oozed through to the front between the plastic black case and the metal base BUT that does you no good. You really need to release all of the glue. Which means you will need to saw through it or go get a dremel.

And, what doesn't work .... the mini propane torch. Just makes everything hot and pliable, but doesn't release it from the base.

So, I'm thinking I'll actually have to take it to the garage and dig out the dremel.

My husband is sitting over across from me daring me to open it. lol He can't breath too good today, but he is still is egging me on to another adventure in automotive curiosity.

JW

 

[GregG48213]

what is in the box

All you would likely see is a circuit board and its components covered in potting material. The skills to repair such a device would cost you at least double the replacement price.

 

[Justwondering]

Well -- as an untrained professional, looks like I'm going to purchase a replacement and then finish taking this thing apart.
I want to see what I'm giving back for my $100 core.

I already agree that its time consuming to take apart.
JW

 

[Duke5A]

That's right about the era where all those bad caps had flooded the market. I made a ton of money back then replacing capacitors on all sorts of failed electronics.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

You're paying 100 for core and you're wrecking it taking it apart? I wouldn't risk it.

 

[Justwondering]

I'll bet I can get it apart and then glue it back together - no harm, no foul.
I'm thinking I'll get a 'pre-owned' one off of fleabay where its cheaper, shorter warranty, and no core charge vs buy from Oreillys or A1auto, etc.

Looking at options.
JW

 

[Justwondering]

bought one from fleabay ... once I get it in and in place, we shall continue the journey taking this old one apart.
JW

 

[Justwondering]

What a journey. Another heart operation in the middle of this Suburban dilemma. This does look like the last heart operation. Not sure there is anything left to 'fix'.

But I digress.

I threw 3 parts at the problem.
Each of the first 2 parts corrected one of the trouble codes.
Then I skewed sideways and made sure that rail grounds were clean, engine ground was clean, map filter clean, and since the battery began failing - replaced the battery.
Still had a trouble code.
Replaced the last culprit and ...
You guessed... all the original 3 trouble codes returned.

Therefore, I waited out the weather, doctor visits, and heart surgery ... and just this past Friday trailered the Suburban to the mechanic, included a love letter of my many attempts to correct the problem and left it with him.

I'm guessing sometime in January he will tell me what the fix was and how much it will cost.

The manager at O'Reillys already told me what the problem is.

He says I had not spent enough money on parts replacement. If I would just buy one more part and spend another $150 bucks then the automotive gods would be satisfied and everything would work again.

He is probably right.

lol

JW

 

[Aspen500]

Did you also check the engine grounds on the rear of the heads? Those have been known to cause all sorts of problems that will drive you nuts trying to diagnose. Just another idea.

BTW, what are the trouble codes?

 

[Justwondering]

While I could feel the bolt on the back of the engine, I never could get the bolt freed up.
I did spray it with cleaner and cleaned it with a rag as if that would help.
Codes: P1125, P1518, P1516 were the most frequent ones.

I really thought it was the one of the electric lines between the tac and the pedal sensor.

JW

 

[Justwondering]

So in December I trailered the suburban to the mechanic.
He had two dead code readers and the 3rd one was the old one that is less than helpful.
We tried the old plug.
We tried the new plug.
We swapped the old tac back in.
Finally decided it was the wiring - again.
I've watched the local yard and finally they had a few chevy's show up.

Side note: What the heck is up with Ford. I swear half the yard was ford. 2nd most was buicks. Then everything else. No chryslers at all. And Chevy's had 7 cars and a lot of empty spots.

So there was a 2001 Chevy surburban on the lot. The 2003 Tahoe was long gone from last week. Whats up with that??

Took me freaking 3 hours after getting out of the dentist to get the wiring out of the suburban. Why? I'm sure it had a little to do with the numbing meds they gave me.
I'm sure it had a little to do with the way a 2001 harness is wired vs a 2003 is wired.
I'm sure it had a little to do with the fact some jughead didn't but the wire cutters back in her truck when she finished using them on the tractor.

But it was a cool day. And only 3 phone calls during the event.

Drove back to the mechanic and swapped in the new 'old' harness and I now have a truck that starts, runs, and a throttle that responds ; HOWEVER, it still is reduced engine power.

But I'm thinking its a win. At least I know exactly how the wires should be in the new harness. I know that the beast is still running. So I'm guessing we are back to 'is this a throttle problem or is this a grounding issue'.

Either way, the new harness is 1.5 feet longer than the old harness so I'll be looming and looping this puppy if it stays in the car. I told the mechanic I need to have my own office down there.

Gonna rain the rest of the week and we are still recovering from 4 days if ice and sleet, so I bet its next week before its looked at again.

JW