There is three (3) things needed an internal combustion engine needs to run: fuel, fire and compression.
Four (4) things needed for an internal combustion engine to run better: more fuel (in correct proportions), fire, more compression and lots more air flow.
More air flow = more power (a direct proportional effect).
The first couple of questions are:
- Your budget
- Overall plans with car.
Once we have those two “guidelines:” the rest (should) fall in line.
I have never been one to rev a ‘60’s, ‘70’s or ‘80’s engine very high – unless car is set up for strictly racing (yes – I know others disagree – but this is my opinion on the matter). High RPM’s generally = (equals to) a lot more money spent (better flowing heads, etc.) and ultimately, the car is less streetable.
If car will be driven primarily on street and is more of a daily driver - than low end torque should be your goal.
Worn, as well as stock, camshafts is always a good place to start – just make sure if fits your build and your cars objective. Tossing a camshaft in, by itself, will be disappointing.
4 bbl setup or even better, a “4 bbl appearing” fuel injection setup.
No comment on 360 exhaust manifolds vs. headers, for now. That topic requires another thread.
There is no replacement for displacement. A stroker kit which would add 40-50 more cubic inches would be my number one recommendation. Most pulleys and engine brackets will work as is.
Higher compression ratio – one that fits the fuel you plan on using. These engines never have liked low compression (a result of meeting emissions). That might be fixed with stoker kit – if that is a direction you are going.
Magnum cylinder heads.
Stick with the 999 automatic transmission (has better gear ratios, which you want).
Install a 2.9 or a3.2 gear ratio into the rear differential. Note: if you are planning on much performance modifications, then you might want to obtain a lager rear differential first (8¼” or larger) , and have it under the bench for now. The stock 7¼” will handle things well to a certain point. After that point, you going to take off and leave a 200 foot path of oil and differential parts.
Getting rid of the current 2.2 or 2.4 ratio will do wonders – unless you drive a lot.
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Back when I picked up my own 5th Ave (M-body), I had looked into installing a 340 (had talked my brother out of his 340 – which I later returned, unused). Then I was thinking about no replacement for displacement. You can get a 360 to run just as well as a 340. Then I purchased a couple of 360’s to perform a project very similar to your goal (which both still reside in my garage along with a police 318 engine).
I was going to go the stroker route with a “mild” camshaft to make car more streetable.
Note: I have to make the car where wife will be able to drive the car - without any objections.
I then got a thinking and continued with the “no replacement for displacement” thought. I also looked into costs to get a mild stroked 360 engine built and installed and said, why settle for 400 ci and why not shoot for a mild 500 ci – with a peak torque targeted at 1800-2500 RPM.
It will be a lot more work, but I think once done, I will have a “higher grin factor”. Budget will be a bit higher – but it will keep me in my garage longer (a goal of mine) and the sense of doing it the way I want it to be.
Still in the process of hunting/gathering parts for that transformation. Actually, I’m gathering parts for both projects (building both engines together, etc.) – but unsure about proceeding with same procedures for my wagon (I was thinking 500+ ci auto for the 5th Ave, and 500+ ci 5 (or 6) stick speed for the wagon – both built for daily driving).
Now I have another dilemma to figure out, before projects are completed. My ’86 5th Ave is currently a great winter vehicle. You have to work hard to spin the tires on ice, even when driving uphill – so it has been a great winter vehicle for me – which I don’t think will be, after the displacement increase.
I may have to find another M body add to my fleet, for winter usage.
BudW