trans throttle arm movement question

slant6billy

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I saw a video tonight of the trans throttle arm movement that looked opposite of mine. My trans throttle arm moves in the same direction as the throttle cable. For instance I hit the gas and the throttle moves towards the firewall. I release my foot and the throttle goes towards the radiator. All the time the trans throttle arm moves in the same direction. the video I saw has the trans throttle arm connected at the bottom of the pivot, so it goes in the opposite direction of the cable. I've tried to move my trans throttle arm to the bottom of the adapter for the Edlebrock and it hits the adapter on either side I try to mount it. Anyone else running an Edlebrock Performer and have interference issues like this or am I over thinking this?
 

Aspen500

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The throttle valve arm on the trans should be forward at idle and move backwards as the throttle is opened. I suppose how it's hooked to the carb all depends on what type linkage you have. The one piece would hook to the top of the carb lever. The 3 piece with the 2 pivot bellcranks would hook to the bottom. The way it operates, the rod at the trans will push rearward. I've got cable operated and it hooks to the top of the lever on the throttle and pulls the lever on the trans towards the back (spring holds it forward) so I can't verify my statement about 1 piece/ 3 piece but my memory isn't THAT bad,,,,,,,,yet. lol
 

slant6billy

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100_3495.jpg
So here's "fire in hole" Seems to create an early throttle stop.

100_3495.jpg
 

Aspen500

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Something doesn't look right there. Maybe an illusion from the pic but, the rod should slide freely on the throttle arm stud. Also, there should be a spring from the rod to the throttle stud to hold the rod forward. With the throttle wide open, adjust the linkage at the trans so the "kick down" lever is fully rearward against the stop.

The way it LOOKS now in the pic, the throttle will only go half way open.

Here's a couple pics for reference. Can't tell for sure what style you have. It is possible the linkage you have may not work with the set up you've got also.

I'd recommend going to the cable set up. Bouchillon Performance has a good one. Have it on my car and it works perfectly. You might need the throttle cable bracket too but you have to call to order from them and they're great there. Can tell you EXACTLY what you need. Nice people! Yeah I know, I know, $$$$$$$ and trust me, I understand. Still, money well spent. Anyways, that's just my 2 cents which with Obama-flation is worth 1 cent at the most.
http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/6807/589

lickdown1.jpg


kickdown2.jpg
 

slant6billy

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No bind and I get a full throttle sweep- no early throttle stop.
 

8v-of-fury

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Interesting, I have a similar issue.

I swapped from 2 barrel to 4 barrel, and I utilized the stock everything regarding kick-down and throttle. I moved the throttle/cruise cable mount back towards the firewall to the next set of intake bolts to hold it down so that I could clear the giant thermoquad perched up there high and proud.

I do not get the part throttle kick down anymore, so I wonder if I am getting the proper movement on the trans arm? It sits full front at idle, yes?
 

slant6billy

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Interesting, I have a similar issue.

I swapped from 2 barrel to 4 barrel, and I utilized the stock everything regarding kick-down and throttle. I moved the throttle/cruise cable mount back towards the firewall to the next set of intake bolts to hold it down so that I could clear the giant thermoquad perched up there high and proud.

I do not get the part throttle kick down anymore, so I wonder if I am getting the proper movement on the trans arm? It sits full front at idle, yes?

In the last pic- that's my idle spot. Now, what I did not go to was the adjuster down at the trans. There are You tube videos of actual mopar service training films for that. Rule of thumb, Throttle all the way back to the firewall WOT- down at the trans that is where you lock the adjuster. That's what I gather from the videos, anywhay
 

Kaitsu

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I don´t mean to hijack the thread, but didn´t want to start my own either as this is a problem with similar matter. I´ve got 318 with 4 BBL Holley economaster carb and 904. I´ve been trying to adjust the throttle rod as instructed on the service manuals, just loose the swivel bolt on side of trans, push the kickdown lever towards front end, tighten the bolt and there you go.

The problem with transmission is that it shifted 1st to 2nd at 20 kmh and 2nd to 3rd at aroun 50 kmh with part throttle. Now, after the engine overhaul, 1st to 2nd is at 40 kmh and 2nd to 3rd at 90 kmh with same throttle. The shifts are usually too firm as well (if your neck is relaxed, it will nod when shift occurs). With more throttle, shifts are good and smooth.

I was curious if the carb end of throttle rod is supposed to touch carb pin at all times, or is there a need for a small movement in throttle pin before rod starts moving?
 

8v-of-fury

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Firm shifts are good/solid shifts, and are usually what you want to see. However, it is a bit high with those shift points at part throttle... lol
 

Kaitsu

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By firm, I meant more of a harsh rather than solid, you know what I mean? Like, I understood that good shift is firm (as in it won´t slip between gears) and smooth (not feeling it shifts). Correct me if I´m too comfort- oriented:p
 
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