Upper Ball Joint - My first time

[Justwondering]

There was a knocking/thumping in the front left (driver's side) wheel well.
The lugnuts were loose.
I tightened them.
Drove about a half mile.
They were loose again.
My brother used his popeye arms and tightened them again. All is good.
So I know I need a torque wrench or bigger biceps.

It was recommended that I check for other issues (wheel bearing, tie rods, ball joints, etc.)

So I have this great service manual. Everything seems straightforward although time consuming. But after reading the manual, I realize this is a good time to check many components.

Here is my picture:

So this is looking from the front of the car to the rear. Inside of tire is on the right.
This is the upper ball joint ? It looks compromised to me. The other side doesn't look like this. Seems like the seal is not setting right.

Many of the metal rods/arms are very corroded. In fact, the tie rod ends where the grease service port stands up all look like the seals are broken since there is tons of grease coating everything.

So I'm looking for advice and recommendations for a good game plan.

There is a reference to some tools (C3564-a and C4212 and torque wrench). I have none of these things yet. I have jack stands and a jack so I can get the front end up off the ground.
Do I also need some grease or lubricant?
I assume I should check both sides.
I should check the brakes since I have to remove the caliper and wheel hub?
Do I just put the rust armature back on or grind off the rust or paint it with something?
There's a big spring that the shock is centered in, do I need to be sure that stays compressed and if so how do I do that.
The shocks look new and clean.

I just don't want to wind up with a mess on my hands that I can't get back together. But I also don't want to go to this much trouble for a ball joint and not take advantage of fixing the other 80% of issues while I have things apart.

So if you could give me an idea of how long I need to have the front suspension out of this while I get it fixed I can work around the rain/weather since I have to do this without a garage.

Once I get everything done, I do have a great mechanic who said he would review everything to be sure I didn't goof up somewhere. But I have to be able to drive it or trailer it to him.

 

[Aspen500]

If you're upper ball joints are not loose they're OK. To change them you need the special socket and Popeye arms. They "thread" into the control arm. It's not a thread like on a bolt but more of a shallow V-shaped thread. When putting the new ones in it requires a MINIMUM of 125 ft lbs of torque before they are seated. If they screw in with less torque than that, the control arm has to be replaced or the joint could pop out. Don't ask me how I know this, lol.
A possibillity of why the right and left side look different is one of them was replaced at some point and just looks a bit different. I've seen front end parts from the same manufacturer where you get a pair of ball joints or tie rod ends and they look different. All depends on when they were made and maybe one of them was a slight redesign.

There shouldn't be any spring around the shock or did I misunderstand what you meant? Only spring up there are the torsion bars.

Usually the grease all over the place is from overgreasing and from never being wiped off. The tie-rod end seals are not absolute. The bottom part more or less is just sitting on the ball socket.

Not sure about anymore but at one time it was possible to buy replacement rubber boots for ball joints and tie rod ends if the original was torn but the joint was still fine.

A pic of the threads:

 

[Justwondering]

So I'm thinking of a new direction.

I'll finish up the trim on the inside today and tomorrow. Get as much done as I can. Then I'll remove the a/c compressor and drain it so I can put the other oil in it.

Monday I can call to get the car into the shop and have all the suspension reviewed by a trained professional and have them charge the a/c

That gives me an independent set of eyes with greater knowledge to tell me where to focus my mechanical time. I don't feel nearly as uncomfortable driving it since that last two times I've had noise it has been the lugnuts-- on the same wheel. So either its the goofball running the wrench (me) or I have something going on between the lugnuts and the wheel studs.

Thanks

 

[Aspen500]

Just to be sure, maybe get some independent eyes to have a look at the wheel studs, wheels (specifically the tapered part of the holes) and lug nuts. To not come loose, they don't have to be really all THAT tight. The spec is 85 ft lbs (115Nm)

 

[80mirada]

Energy Suspension has replacement boots for balljoints and tie-rods. Mancini or Summit have them

 

[BudW]

For some reason most Chrysler Corp. vehicles, the control arms and spindles came without any paint. Sometimes they were coated in Cosmoline and sometimes bare.

I have friends who are purists and want to go back as they were originally built (more power to them).
Personally, I like my parts coated for a more permanent solution. It looks sharper, easier to keep clean. If one does get sloppy with the grease gun - cleaning the grease from paint is far easier than from rusted iron or steel.

I’ve replaced a lot of ball joints over my lifetime, most of which are not hard to do. These are far easier to replace than “other makes” as long as you have the special ball joint sockets.

There will be a fleet of these cars in my garage for a long time, so keeping the tools on hand makes sense (to me).
If this is your only car or you have no plans on doing this yourself, then you can either pay someone with tools to do it for you OR purchase them somewhere with new joints and bushings already installed.

In my case, I have a spare front suspension setup which I will be rebuilding soon (from a ‘84 GF AHB). Once rebuilt and made all pretty (i.e.: paint and powder coating), I’m going to drop my big block on it. Once all parts are ready for engine transplant for my ‘86 5th Ave (and not before), it should be able to be replaced in a weekend.
Unbolt the K-frame and transmission crossmember, raise the body, wheel the old K-frame/suspension/318/trans out from under car, wheel the new assembly under car, then lower body on top of K-frame (not quite that easy as it sounds - but pretty close).

Then take my ‘86 5th Ave K-frame and get it rebuilt/painted for the next FMJ in line . . .

BudW
--- Post updated ---

Just to be sure, maybe get some independent eyes to have a look at the wheel studs, wheels (specifically the tapered part of the holes) and lug nuts.

Also, look at your wheels.
I suspect the lug nut taper on wheels may be wallered (spelling?) out from driving with loose lug nuts, and nuts are tightening against the rotors/axles - instead against the wheels.

BudW

 

[Justwondering]

I'll be keeping the 5th.
Its much easier to work/learn on. I can generally get parts. Its not overly complicated with computers and digital controls. Most everything on the body is metal so I don't have to worry about cracks and repairs as it ages. Rust is another problem altogether, but chemistry is more interesting than 'just replace it or put some jbweld for plastics on it'.

I agree with the taper being compromised. I did purchase five lugnuts so I could change out all those on that wheel. (one was missing already). I'll change the other 4 after I get a torque wrench and will see if they also back off.

This is all good learning for me. I have a '61 tempest waiting in the wings to get some attention. I've already decided to farm out the engine to be reworked. But while its gone I'd like to swap in some front disc brakes. But that is another year away.

My goal is to get everything up to snuff on the 5th, get my monies situated and get the old boy painted. He needs a new suit.

thanks for the advice.

 

[80mirada]

I just realized I have a set of Energy Suspension Dust boots for the front end, somewhere in my parts, if you can wait until the middle of the Summer I can dig them out and send them to you.

 

[Justwondering]

Why shucks .. I'd be honored.
Anything you need from down Texas way, let me know.