You have options.
Any option is better than the existing rubber.
- Some people like to replace the rubber ISO bushings with polyurethane biscuits.
That option reuses all your existing hardware.
I highly recommend using new U-bolts/nuts (Chrysler calls the U-bolts, clips) with any change in the area – sense you are working with 30 to 40-year-old fasteners.
Most of the people who has gone this route has been happy with the results – but I do have a concern:
The hardware is not that strong. The area in blue circle(s) tend to fail. When that happens, the leaf spring will drag the ground and tire will be touching the body (rear inner fender area) – so car will need towed at that point.
This is only picture I could find. Someone added overload springs to this setup (which I would have done differently).
- My recommendation is to either use FFI’s setup (which anything FFI has is kinda pricy, but it is a complete kit). This will still use the upper part of the ISO clamp – but it touches the spring now.
http://www.firmfeel.com/fmj_body_mopar_iso_delete_kit.html
The assembly will be (top to bottom): differential, upper shock bracket, leaf spring and then the new FFI bracket.
OR find an older shock plate from any non-pickup/van made about ’60-72 (except for ’70 E-body or A/B-body’s with 7¼” differentials – sense they have a smaller diameter differential tube). That includes all C-body, all ’71-74 E-body and most A and B-body’s made between '60-72). If you see a Chrysler part and it looks like below, then it should work if the bolt pattern is "square" (about 3½” square).
Both were taken from eBay. The lower is a Repop set.
The shock plate goes under the spring this time. The assembly will be (top to bottom): differential, leaf spring then shock plate.
Using older shock plates – you will also need to use older shocks sense the lower side went from downward stud style to sideways stud style (note: just look for a ’66-70 B-body rear shock instead of an FMJ rear shock). The shock dimensions are the same once installed.
The top shock "looks" your original rear shock. The bottom one looks like what you would use if you replace the shock plates.
BTW, I really dislike working on the upper (shock) style nuts. Removing the nut from a rusty shock - will remove part your hair and will typically make a person toss things around in your garage (in anger). Just replacing with older shock plates (for older style shocks) will reduce your stress level for future shock replacements.
The older shock plate will need to have the leaf spring center bolt replaced with smaller bolt OR you can drill out the shock plate center hole to match the FMJ larger center bolt. Either method will work fine.
BudW