I’ve been sick the last few days and not been online.
If someone has messed with the system – then there is no telling what it will need to get back working.
First, getting the car running you are ok with kickdown linkage disconnected. Driving the car – you need to have that connected and working – or you will burn out the transmission in no time.
With air cleaner wing nut removed (but everything else still connected – of possible), take several pictures of the intake/carburetor area and post here. That might be helpful – if something is missing.
It takes fuel, fire and compression, in proper amounts and in proper timing – or things wont work, so the three areas to investigate is fuel system, ignition system and engine (compression (ie burnt valves, etc.), camshaft timing (ie: timing chain jumped, etc.).
I doubt you would have a timing chain problem with that few miles – but it can happen, especially with those plastic timing gears. Things like burnt valves, bent pushrods, broken rocker arms happen all the time and 1 cylinder down can keep engine from starting.
The carburetor will be computer controlled in ’84 (I think you have an ’84) – but computer only controls a small part of it. Not enough to get car started or for driving short distances. If car won’t start, look down the carburetor bore (with a flashlight) and push throttle back. If you see the fuel jets squirting (accelerator pump system works and there is fuel in the carburetor) then and don’t see fuel drops inside at other times (which means the float sunk and flooding the engine), then I would start looking elsewhere (for now).
The ignition system is harder to diagnosis on that system (on any older computer-controlled system) – especially on a no start condition.
My recommendation (for do-it-yourselfers) for order of diagnosis on no start/runs really poor, is:
Non-computer controlled:
- Fuel system
- Ignition system
- Compression check
For computer-controlled systems:
- Fuel system
- Compression check
- Ignition system
For fuel system, first disconnect the fuel line from fuel pump (either at fuel filter (under alternator) or disconnect line at carburetor) and check for fuel volume. Fuel will be under low pressure but will spurt out in cycles (once for every 2 engine revolutions). No fuel or not much - you will need to look into metal line damage (or rust) and check all rubber hoses (front to rear).
Compression test is straight forward, if you have access to compression tester – which sometimes can be rented from an auto parts store. You should have no more than 20% difference from highest to lowest reading. Either all spark plugs should be out or all but 1 plug should be in or you will not get good results (the former is better than the later method, IMO).
To check timing chain timing is more difficult. Checking for timing chain wear is not hard at all.
Remove distributor cap and set aside. Having a helper is worth the effort. Get a 1¼” (32 mm) socket and a long ratchet/breaker bar. I have one that is 2-foot long which works great. Try to always turn the crankshaft in one direction if possible (clockwise when looking from front of car), mainly because if engine is hard to turn – it can loosen the crankshaft bolt – but if engine turns over easy then you don’t have anything to worry about.
Turn ratchet/breaker bar and watch for disturber rotor for movement (which should be instant). Then reverse direction of crankshaft and make note of how long distributor rotor turns in opposite direction. It should be instant or close to instant. Loose timing chains can be a problem with drivability – but not with hard start (unless timing chain jumped a tooth).
Ignition with a computer is rather difficult to diagnosis, especially sense FMJ computers have no method for us to communicate with the computer. Getting a spark tester (plugs in between spark plug and wire) or a timing light is about the easiest way to check – but even that is not reliable (unless you get no sparks) when a computer is involved.
Normal ignition system – there is only 4 areas of failure:
- Ballast resistor
or
- ICU (Ignition Control Unit)
- Pickup coil
- Wiring harness open/short circuit
Computer-control system
- Either (or both) pickup coils
- Computer
- Wiring harness (with miles of possibilities)
Generally, these will cause drivability concerns, and not no start conditions but spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor are also on that list. I generally change these items every 30k miles on my FMJ vehicles.
BudW