Recent content by Aspen500

It wasn't meant as an insult. Guess everything makes you butt hurt, and this isn't the first time with you so,,,,,well, I'll just stop there. I'm outta here.

Well,,,,in 1973, I finished 3rd grade in May, and started 4th grade that September. So you are wrong, camel toe breath.

Back when I was a kid, cell phones weren't even a concept in some inventors head yet. lol

Sounds like you are seeing the parking brake cables. Without photos, so going by your description.The rear hose goes from the brake line vertically to the rear axle, and is attached to the axle tube with a hollow bolt, which is also the axle vent.

In case you're not aware, there are poly spring isolator pads available, if needed or wanted. For U-bolts, you can get them at a parts store. Match them up by diameter and center to center spread distance. In most cases, you will need to cut them to length as they're "universal" parts.

Is it a LeBaron T&C, or just a regular LeBaron wagon (not T&C)?

You know what's worse? It's when you look all over for that tool you just had in your hand, and then find it,,,,,,,,in your hand. That's when you know it's time to shut off the lights, lock the door, and go in for the night.

I would suspect the master piston is not all the way released just enough to block the compensation ports, and holding some pressure in the system. With the brakes dragging, the fluid heats up and expands, but can't return to the reservoir. Then the brakes drag more and more. Never ran into it...

My '08 Mustang has the 4.0 SOHC. Fortunately, by 2008 they had the timing chain failure problem solved.

Not to mention the 3.5 Eco Boost is nothing but trouble and expensive to un-trouble usually. Don't miss working on them one tiny bit.

Ditto.

Exactly.

It's a coolant temp controlled vacuum valve. CCEI is Coolant Controlled Idle Enrichment. If you car has (or had) it, one of the hoses would go to something similar to a power valve screwed to the front of the carb. It was used on the Holley 2V on 360 w/auto trans, and Thermoquad w/auto trans...

Check the bulbs, also. It's rare, but I've seen bulbs being the cause of a short to ground a handful of times in 40 years as an auto tech.

To find true TDC, turn until the piston stops, and mark the balancer. Then keep turning until the piston just starts moving back down, and mark balancer. TDC is halfway between the 2 marks. It's most accurate using a dial indicator, but for a stock, street use engine a screwdriver is close enough.