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Run the correct Quadrajet or TQ, and be done with it. Anything Holley or Edlecrock is aftermarket, and as I posted elsewhere, they're very expensive with iffy quality. The only exception I'd consider might be the Street Demon TQ, which isn't a true spreadbore, but it sounds like quality there is...

For the money involved, the best way to resolve the Lean Burn "dilemma" is to figure out what the problem actually is. Per Chrysler, 95% of the time, it's a vacuum leak, secondary ignition problem, or a carb issue. If a proper diagnosis reveals the computer is bad, the solution is quick and...

Wander is probably your dampner slipping on itself. If the timing "bounces" sharply all over the place, that's more consistent with spark scatter, which is generally a bad distributor cap, rotor, or reluctor. Check the cap for evidence of arcing, the rotor for excessive wear (make sure its...

There are a lot of people who don't know a great deal about these old cars. If you don't explain the process, how do you expect anyone to learn anything?

If the pivot cushion bushings or even torsion bar anchor bushings are bad, they MUST be replaced. That's how you get the noise to go away. *Failure to to so could result in torsion bar failure or loss of control of the vehicle*

Possibly a control arm bushing, but I can almost guarantee it will be one or both of the pivot cushion bushings at the torsion bar (where the torsion bar mounts and pivots at the front of the k-frame). These are notorious for wearing out, and making contact with the k-frame. Put the car up on...

L code 360 was E58 engine. 195 hp in US, 200 in Canada. Only differences in California would've been along the lines of distributor/computer/carb, but the E58 was definitely available in '79 throughout North America. Things were really looney in '79. I had a '79 St Regis A38, with an E58. It...

Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee ('93-95) will work. Best choice over headers.

Best exhaust I had was dual 2.25, h-pipe, all out the rear, with factory-appearing turndowns. Slide the tank over, finesse a spot (BFH) for the rollover valve, and hook it all back up. Of course, that's also the time to replace the tank and all the crusty old lines back there.

There were originally two different pumps. One for non-oil cooler cars, one for the squads with the cooler. The bolt (6033087) is actually hollow, and that's where the oil returns to the pan (via the front cover). All discontinued now. If the bolt and adapter lines are all still good, what...

Don't forget to use the correct coil, and figure out whether it needs to be mounted vertically or horizontally. Check the condition of your timing chain/sprockets and dampner. If the timing set or dampner are bad, you'll never get it to run right. If you get it all sorted out, but the timing...

245/60/15 is equal to the 215/70/15 that was standard on M-body squads. 27" diameter, fits perfectly, still rides decent, sticks well. I believe the Ford P7B 235/55/17 is also the same overall diameter, but I can't recall if they mount up to the Chryslers.

Lean is always better. That's the whole idea behind the lean burn system. I would always tune mine just to the very edge of a lean miss. That keeps fuel and oil consumption to a minimum, and prolongs the life of the engine. Winter time, I'd have to fatten it up a little bit, but if everything...

No reason to delete the Lean Burn on a 2bbl car. The computer has a much better timing curve than any aftermarket distributor. Find out the problem - is it the carb, a sensor, a vacuum leak, incorrect carb or timing adjustment, bad timing chain or dampner? Figure it out. You can easily spend...

Dexron is fine. They're Saginaw steering gear, which are actually a GM product.

Did you use a regular M-body pitman arm? Measure the distance between the bottom of the pitman arm to the floor, and also the bottom of the idler to the floor. Those most be even. Typically, the idler arm must be shimmed, or the bracket pulled back into the correct location (porta-power)...