360 power

[charlesvolare]

That has got to be loud. You use this as a daily? I must be getting too old.

Did you degree the cam when you installed it? I just can't get over the 22 degrees initial. Wonder if the high amount of initial timing is required to compensate for a cam that is retarded.

I try to daily it as much as I can lol.

I didn't degree the cam when I installed it, but I was having trouble with it wanting a lot of timing at first. I posted on a forum and a lot of guys with the same cam said it liked timing like that and suggested that I get the timing plate.

Here's a link to that forum:
Timing

 

[Duke5A]

I try to daily it as much as I can lol.

I didn't degree the cam when I installed it, but I was having trouble with it wanting a lot of timing at first. I posted on a forum and a lot of guys with the same cam said it liked timing like that and suggested that I get the timing plate.

Here's a link to that forum:
Timing

One guy asked where the cam was installed and said, "in the motor is not an acceptable answer." He was inquiring to cam timing. I would still recommend cracking the motor back open and checking if you have a cam timing kit. If you were closer I'd say you could borrow mine.

I'm going to second the suggestions of going with a bigger carb too. 600 is on the light side for a performance 360. That sucks too because I just sold a 770 Street Avenger.

 

[Oldiron440]

Even if the cam is installed strait up I think with the converter and gears I'd give the cam 2 to 4 degrees advance.

 

[jasperjacko]

Converter 25-2700 will wake that up. My car has similar set up. 1.85-1.90, 13.65-13.75 98-99 mph. Sounds like you may be lean on top.

 

[charlesvolare]

I ordered the summit version of the holley blue pump, I plan on getting that in this weekend and messing with the secondary spring too. Might give it a size bigger main jet while I'm at it. Hopefully I can make test and tune next week and see how she does!

 

[charlesvolare]

Good news and bad news:

Good news- I got the new fuel pump and regulator installed, had a little trouble with getting the pressure regulated down, but I think it's good to go now. I took it out on the street and it will pull all the way through the gears now, I've never been able to get to 6k in second gear before so it definitely fixed that issue. Thanks for the suggestions!

Bad news- I pulled the intake to check things out and verify correct pushrod length. Summit keeps sending me exhaust gaskets in intake packages so I just went down the street and picked up a set of stock felpro ones and put it back together.
I've been losing coolant slowly since the last time I've had the heads off, just topping it off once a week, sometimes more depending on how much I've driven. No visible leaks and it wasn't leaking into the oil, just so condensation stuff in the valve covers so I didn't think too mush of it. Put everything back together and start the car and start checking for fuel leaks and see this:

I retorqued the head bolts and everything was still tight, gave the one closest to that an extra tug to be sure. This morning there was coolant/moisture in the crankcase/ on the dipstick... That head might be warped, I do remember seeing dried coolant running down the drivers side at the firewall changing the starter once and I've had it apart since then, it's possible I which the heads around... Anyone have a set of aluminum heads they want to get ride of for cheap?

 

[Oldiron440]

I had problems with a fresh 360 and head gaskets, I put a stop leak in it and watched the leak dry up. It lasted for 25 years.

 

[Duke5A]

Dude, that sucks. It'd be cheaper to pull the heads and get them milled, but if you wanted alloy heads the promaxx stuff is decent from what I understand. I just sold my old Eddie headed 360 too.

 

[charlesvolare]

I pulled the head and from what it looked like and what I was able to tell, everything was flat and it was just a bad head gasket seal. So I replaced the head gasket. And it's still leaking in what seems like the same spot. It's not bad and you can't really tell unless you really get on it driving and then immediately check before it evaporates off. I drove it 200 highway miles (65+ mph) yesterday and it did fine, guage climbed to ~205-210 at long stop lights and dropped back down to 190 where it'd stay cruising at 3000 rpm (high yesterday was about 95). Topped her off this morning and drove her to work. I'm not too worried about the leak, but it bugs me that it's still there and that it might get worse. Is this a common spot to leak? I surgically cleaned the area before putting it back together. Could it possibly be running down from the intake now? It's not bubbling out anymore, it's just wet. If I were to use a head gasket sealer, what do you guys recommend that has worked for you?

*I didn't pull the whole engine out to change the head gasket, just used this pic as an example to show where*

 

[BudW]

Shiny pistons!

You touched on quite a few subjects to comment on.
First, what are you using to determine coolant temp? The dash gauge is an “indicator”, but rarely reads correctly. An aftermarket gauge works much better, with mechanical gauge working better than electric (in my opinion).
I was cruising eBay not long ago, and ran across this and this might also be a great tool (if it will fit), maybe.

Note the max reading on last cap. It shows up to 400' F/200' C - dang that's hot.

I am not saying you have an overheating concern – all I’m saying is I would not go by the dash temperature gauge reading as your only indicator.


Second, any evidence of coolant in the oil or valley area?
A person might have to drain engine oil to make for sure.


Stock small block Mopars are not known to have a lot of head gasket problems. It happens, but not a real common thing.

Two things come to mind at the location indicated. One is leakage from intake gasket (which is a lot more common problem I see).
The other issue is block or head flatness at that location. You mentioned “everything was flat”, I’m guessing you checked both the cylinder head and cylinder block using an official straight edge and feeler gauge? Most people and machine shops will check cylinder head for flatness – but it is uncommon for shops or people to check the cylinder block for flatness (not saying it wasn’t checked – just covering my bases).

The same thing goes for cylinder head intake surface and intake needs to be checked for flatness – especially aluminum cylinder heads or aluminum intakes.

No matter what surface it is, it is hard to seal an un-flat surface with a flat gasket (or a flat surface with an un-flat (not parallel) gasket).

If assembled – the best way to check for coolant leaks (hot or cold) is with a cooling system pressure tester. In some cases, even white paper towels placed against key areas is helpful.


Lastly, I’m not fond of “stop leak” especially for cooling systems - and can not recommend using it. The substance gets into unintended locations and stops flow, like heater cores, or in small holes drilled in picture (red circles). Once you flush out the coolant (which a person needs to do every 2 years) then the “stop leak” has been removed and leak reappears. If you have a coolant leak, it is best to just find and fix it (IMO).

That said, it can be a “wonder drug” for used cars (good or bad, depending if you are seller or buyer).
BudW

 

[Oldiron440]

As far as stop leak..... new carmakers use it in vehicles leaving the assembly line.

 

[Oldiron440]

Not the name brand, they all have there own.

 

[charlesvolare]

Shiny pistons!

You touched on quite a few subjects to comment on.
First, what are you using to determine coolant temp? The dash gauge is an “indicator”, but rarely reads correctly. An aftermarket gauge works much better, with mechanical gauge working better than electric (in my opinion).
I was cruising eBay not long ago, and ran across this and this might also be a great tool (if it will fit), maybe.
View attachment 31109

View attachment 31110
Note the max reading on last cap. It shows up to 400' F/200' C - dang that's hot.

I am not saying you have an overheating concern – all I’m saying is I would not go by the dash temperature gauge reading as your only indicator.


Second, any evidence of coolant in the oil or valley area?
A person might have to drain engine oil to make for sure.


Stock small block Mopars are not known to have a lot of head gasket problems. It happens, but not a real common thing.

Two things come to mind at the location indicated. One is leakage from intake gasket (which is a lot more common problem I see).
The other issue is block or head flatness at that location. You mentioned “everything was flat”, I’m guessing you checked both the cylinder head and cylinder block using an official straight edge and feeler gauge? Most people and machine shops will check cylinder head for flatness – but it is uncommon for shops or people to check the cylinder block for flatness (not saying it wasn’t checked – just covering my bases).

The same thing goes for cylinder head intake surface and intake needs to be checked for flatness – especially aluminum cylinder heads or aluminum intakes.

No matter what surface it is, it is hard to seal an un-flat surface with a flat gasket (or a flat surface with an un-flat (not parallel) gasket).

If assembled – the best way to check for coolant leaks (hot or cold) is with a cooling system pressure tester. In some cases, even white paper towels placed against key areas is helpful.


Lastly, I’m not fond of “stop leak” especially for cooling systems - and can not recommend using it. The substance gets into unintended locations and stops flow, like heater cores, or in small holes drilled in picture (red circles). Once you flush out the coolant (which a person needs to do every 2 years) then the “stop leak” has been removed and leak reappears. If you have a coolant leak, it is best to just find and fix it (IMO).
View attachment 31111

That said, it can be a “wonder drug” for used cars (good or bad, depending if you are seller or buyer).
BudW

I have an aftermarket mechanical temp gauge.

I've had the intake off a few times before I found the leak thinking it wasn't sealing correctly, lifter valley was fine. However there was one spot, and only that spot, that was milky when I changed the head gasket. Cruddy picture but it's between the cylinder 6 and 8 lifters.

I've found a guy selling a set of good magnum heads local for $100. I'm thinking I might try to talk to the guy, see if he'll take any less, and set them up PERFECTLY. I've started an engineering internship in the R&D department at comp cams here in Memphis and know I can now set it up way nicer than I have my current ones, port em, nice set of springs, valve job- I have access to the tools and knowledge of doing that all now, but I'd rather just make what I already have work.

 

[Duke5A]

I've got a set of new R/T valve springs, 2.2l retainers, and new head bolts I got years ago for a Magnum head swap that never happened. I'd let them go for a screaming deal if you want.

 

[BudW]

I have an aftermarket mechanical temp gauge.

Wonderful – you are already ahead of the game!


First of all – Chrysler engines (/6, small and big blocks will all do this), if the coolant (err, water) freezes in the engine it will crack the block in the process. Small and big blocks will crack in the lifter valley first.

If that happens, there is generally a crack that can be seen, and block will be rusty in that area – as well as a milkshake/coffee colored “soup” close by (water and engine oil doesn’t like to mix) – much like you have shown there.

You mentioned it is a “Cruddy picture” (no worries, I take those as well) – but for what I can see, there might be a crack in the block, possibly (white arrow).

Hopefully it is the lighting or the camera – for head gaskets are a lot easier to replace than a block is.
BudW

Note: I have seen a lot of good engines die this way - especially for those left outside for years - including 383 Road Runners and 440 6-pac's.

 

[charlesvolare]

Wonderful – you are already ahead of the game!


First of all – Chrysler engines (/6, small and big blocks will all do this), if the coolant (err, water) freezes in the engine it will crack the block in the process. Small and big blocks will crack in the lifter valley first.

If that happens, there is generally a crack that can be seen, and block will be rusty in that area – as well as a milkshake/coffee colored “soup” close by (water and engine oil doesn’t like to mix) – much like you have shown there.

You mentioned it is a “Cruddy picture” (no worries, I take those as well) – but for what I can see, there might be a crack in the block, possibly (white arrow).
View attachment 31140
Hopefully it is the lighting or the camera – for head gaskets are a lot easier to replace than a block is.
BudW

Note: I have seen a lot of good engines die this way - especially for those left outside for years - including 383 Road Runners and 440 6-pac's.

I hope it's just bad lighting/picture. Surely I would've noticed something like that... but it would explain that single spot of coolant oil...

 

[XfbodyX]

Look at the org. pic just to the right a bit, its the parting lines from the machined surface to the rough cast surface.

Similar casting ridge, similar surface pattern lines.

Did you use any sealant on that area it leaked or dry install the gaskets/

 

[XfbodyX]

Here is a simple opinion and remember the automotive field isnt for daisy pickers so dismiss any wording if its offensive to you.

Most blocks will seal with a composite gasket, small block oem decks have a odd curve to them and can be .005 off at times, and its always on an edge.

I never understand why folks wont take the .005 off that can be done in one cut that solves many possible issues, and its cheap.

Now the orange arrow, what the heck? Looks like a drunk guy with a tube of tooth paste tried to seal the intake. You can always lay the manifold on and draw a line with a sharpe marker, remove intake and make one 5/16 diameter bead about 1/4 inch in and the after all the bolts are snug, wipe off and close the ends with a swipe of a finger. And really the oil pickup can get plugged with next to nothing. Ive seen guys buy three tubes of rtv for one build when it takes a 1/2 tube.

Your deck looks pretty rough when blown up but as Bud mentioned a iffy pic. Thats a nasty leak, id look at the head really close as well. Im not sure even a ceramic sealer would fix that.

My new HD monitor for the semi blind shows oil in more then one spot, its easy to figure if its leaking out, it can leak internally.

Id think you could get that to seal there, not a modern pc way but it might beat pulling things out.

In this second pic is a teener that never ever leaked but it was off .004 so it got cut/squared.

 

[Oldiron440]

That goop can be deadly to oil pump relief valves!

 

[charlesvolare]

Now the orange arrow, what the heck? Looks like a drunk guy with a tube of tooth paste tried to seal the intake. You can always lay the manifold on and draw a line with a sharpe marker, remove intake and make one 5/16 diameter bead about 1/4 inch in and the after all the bolts are snug, wipe off and close the ends with a swipe of a finger. And really the oil pickup can get plugged with next to nothing. Ive seen guys buy three tubes of rtv for one build when it takes a 1/2 tube.

I was hoping no one would notice that, not my proudest moment.