@Camtron, the L/F door lock switch is a single switch – which also happens to be the same switch used for power windows/door locks on other three doors.
The L/F window switch is a 5-gang switch and is the switch between the power mirror switch (round knob) and the bottom (door lock) switch.
There are two screws to remove the metal/chrome switch panel from the side/bottom of arm rest (if you want to call it that). On bottom side of the metal panel, is three screws that attach the switch.
It is not hard to bend the metal when pulling that long switch panel up and out – for that metal part is not hard to bend. There is a lot of (stiff) wires going to that switch panel and the wiring just don’t want to move (bend out of the way).
What I do is if I’m at a pull-a-part and trying to extract the switch, I will pull the switch/metal bracket up and unplug once up – but there is an extremely high chance the metal top plate will get bent into a horseshoe.
If I’m trying to not damage any parts (ie: the car the switch is to go into), I will remove the entire door panel leaving wiring intact, then after door pane is removed unscrew the (three?) cone-shaped Phillips screws that hold the arm rest/switch to the door panel. Pull wiring through the door panel a bit, then unplug the swtiches from back side – so you are not fighting against the wiring harness.
The electrical connectors are not that strong so it can be easy for one to pop apart. Not that hard to pop back together if it does unpop but a pain in the ___ if it does. Also, the door locks are always hot (have 12 volts) so be careful using a screwdriver . . .
Speaking of which, disconnecting the door lock switch and mirror switch first and re-connecting last is my suggestion.
BudW