90 degree oil adapter

[Bruceynz]

Hi Guys,

I just ripped it off and never thought much of it, just wondering how you line up the 90 degree oil adapter? It has this we 2 prong fork thing on it, is it supposed to point at something?

Thanks
Bruce

 

[BudW]

Kinda hard to see the “fork” in this photo.
For those who do not know, the before mentioned “fork” is at a 10 O’clock position in photo and it blends in with his (bench, I think it is).

For cars using exhaust manifolds and pre-cats, the fork does line up (I can’t remember what, right now) to clock it to the exhaust manifold.

If you are using headers – I would like for you to do something before installing this part to block:
Snugly attach a header to that side of engine using two bolts. Take an oil filter and see if you can screw the filter straight onto the block (there might not be a thread for it at this point, if not no worries – just use your imagination).
If filter can attach to block with filter without using the adaptor – that route might be best (or preferred).

Next, screw a filter onto your adaptor, snugly.
Without using the bolt, see if the 90’ adaptor will fit on without header interference. If not, then screw the adaptor on (snugly) and see which method would be easier to change oil with.

Headers tosses a wrench in the works, when it comes to oil filters. Different headers = different solutions for the filter.

In your case, it is easier to figure this out before it all goes into the car (so to speak).
Trying to get this figured out, after installing headers (in car) can be fun, especially with oil dripping in your face.
BudW

 

[Bruceynz]

True, I will just bolt it all up and snap some pics and show you. Never thought of that, DOH! and I have the headers sitting next to the engine, you know how you get a train of thought in your head and its not until some says do it this way! I had in my head I needed to do it when the motor was back in the car

 

[BudW]

Chrysler used two different 90’ small block adaptors.

The first one is cast iron and actually rotates the other direction. It was for the 340 exhaust manifold usage (both want to occupy the same space).

The aluminum version you have (a much lighter version) was used for cars with the pre-cat – for, again, the catalytic converter and filter want to occupy the same space.

I had a 340 with this exhaust manifold and iron 90’ adaptor – and changing filters was not fun.

Actually, changing filters on my ’86 5th Ave is not much better.
My wagon uses the straight on filter and it’s a breeze to change filters on.
BudW

 

[Greg55_99]

WARNING WILL ROBINSON DANGER!!! When torqueing the bolt that holds the adapter to the block do not screw it in too tightly. It will break with no warning. Ask me how I know.

 

[Bruceynz]

How many ft lbs should I torque it down to then?

 

[Bruceynz]

 

[Greg55_99]

Looking through the web with Google it looks like 50 ft lbs is the max.

 

[BudW]

The hollow stud (for filter attachment without the 90’ adaptor) is 30 foot/pounds (41 Newton Meters).
The hollow bolt (90’ adaptor) is 50 foot/pounds (68 Newton Meters).

I agree, the hollow bolt, a well as the 90’ adaptor are not that strong. I hadn’t broken either, yet – but have seen a lot of people break both.

From the picture, it looks like you will need to use the adaptor?
BudW