A/C Delete kit ?

[BudW]

it cut out twice - just as if the key is turned. So the gremlin is still there...

This sounds like either an electrical problem (partial open circuit in wiring, in ignition switch, in ballast resistor or something like that) or a low fuel level in carburetor/fuel supply (which it doesn’t sound like a fuel level concern).

The easiest way I know to check for fuel problems is to first check if fuel pump is working correctly. Test with a fuel volume test from pump.

If that tests OK then I like to take car onto a deserted section of interstate where I can run the car Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for a good stretch of time. If there is a fuel problem (float level or otherwise) the car will start to stumble as if it is running out of gas, during an extended time at WOT. 2nd gear usage might be preferred to prevent speeding tickets.
You might not have an area which you can do that, possibly (and it is against the law to break the local speed limits, here . . .).

Both of my cars will “run out of gas” after about 30 seconds at WOT. I’m not concerned about that issue too much sense I don’t need to drive that way – but at least I know where MY problem(s) is at – and it is not electrical.

Ruling out "fuel" can at least tell you where to keep searching at.

If you don't have procedures to test your fuel pump, then let me know. I can post instructions here.

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Thanks Bud. I Will leave the canister in place for now so I don't make too many changes at once.
The conversion kit is on its way from Summit and that will be the next thing to work on.
I do have a new fuel pump which I will put on just to be sure. To me it seems like the problem is electric. I hope it is related to the SCC since that will be disconnected shortly and the wiring will be simpler.
-And we also have speed limits and heavy fines over here

 

[Deleted member 1959]

About the carb: If I someday wanted to swap it for a rebuilt simpler pre-lean burn model which models could I use that will still fit the intake and the air cleaner ?

 

[lowbudget]

If it is a 2 bbl. a Holley 2280 or Carter BBD. I have the Holley on my 87 and the Carter on my 85. I haven't compared them enough to rate. I love the BBD on my Aspen though.

 

[BudW]

If going from a 2-bbl to a 2-bbl (both 318) then there is no need for an intake change.

If going from a 2-bbl to a 4-bbl, then yes the intake manifold (as well as air cleaner, throttle cable, transmission kickdown linkage and so forth) will be needed.

---
All 318’s from 1962 to 1989 all used the same bolt pattern that BBD and Holley 2280/6280 use (except for ‘74 Road Runners which uses the larger 360/383/400 Holley 2-bbl (2210/2245) bolt pattern).
That includes all of the 318 BBD, Stromberg (WW-3), Holley (2209/2280/6280) and ’71 Rochester (GV2) that will fit your existing intake manifold (except for the ’74 Road Runner which I doubt anyone will find one of those), that 318’s used.
Now with that said, many of the older carburetors are not calibrated to use PCV or other things like that,

Note: the difference between Holley 2280 and 6280 is the 6280 is computer feedback (not applicable in your case). The Holley 2209 is an older design and is hard to find.


For decades, the carburetor I recommend most, to install on 318 (2-bbl’s) that works the best (in my opinion) - is one from any ’77 318 which can be Lean Burn/SCC or not, or California Emissions or not.
They seem to be the best year calibration and that works best for almost all year changeovers (that use PCV valve – like yours does).
I even put one on my ’86 5th Ave to replace the Holley 6280 Lean Burn it had on it at the time (years before I bought my ’77 wagon).

Those recommended ’77 318 carburetor model numbers are:
BBD-8093-S 49 state and manual transmission
BBD-8094-S 49 state and automatic transmission
BBD-8096-S California Emissions and automatic transmission
BBD-8126-S High Altitude and automatic transmission
BBD-8135-S (same as BBD-8094-S)
BBD-8145-S (same as BBD-8094-S)
BBD-8170-S Lean Burn/SCC 49 state and automatic transmission
BBD-8171-S Lean Burn/SCC High Altitude and automatic transmission
BBD 8172-S Lean Burn/SCC California and automatic transmission

In all actuality, all 9 model numbers above are the same internally – except for High Altitude, which has a compensator for High Altitude (which works fine/normal everywhere else). Also (except for the High Altitude aspect) all 9 will interchange with each other – providing the idle switch and Throttle Position Sensor/transducer is carried over (if using still using Lean Burn/SCC).

The ironic thing is, is your carburetor is already one of the listed above. The jetting is the same, the base/body and top castings are the same on yours as on a 8094s/8135s/8145s. The only real difference between yours and the 8094s/8135s/8145s is the Throttle Position sensor/Transducer and switch, both of with sends a signal to Lean Burn/SCC computer. One could remove those two items or just leave them in place.
BudW

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Thanks again Bud. I will keep the list in my tech tips in case I would ever like to get a rebuilt pre- lean burn carb. Right now I am waiting for the conversion set to arrive and then we will see if the gremlin goes away with the SCC
I unbolted the air injector tube from the exhaust today. Had to cut a ½" spanner in half to be able to turn the bolt. Tomorrow I can cut the "teardrop" and bolt it in place - job done.

 

[BudW]

I forgot to mention, that ½” bolt head is not easy to get to.

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Hi guys
So I got the lean burn conversion done. Had a mechanic install a kit from Summit with new (normal) ignition with vacuum advance, ICU, and matching coil. The SCC is now just a pretty box attached to the side of the air cleaner. All the wiring has been redone and simplified.
I have done a few trips in it, and it has not cut out yet (fingers crossed).
The mechanic said he was not quite satisfied with the advance curve, and it does feel a bit weak when accelerating quickly from 40-60 mph. Is the vacuum port on the carb that used to go the SCC suitable for a conventional ignition ?

If this is an issue I will start looking for 1977 2bbl remanufactured carb from BudW´s list in #25.