alignment led to other issues!

77kickinaspen

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i started off by taking it down to expert tire my grandma was gonna let me use her acct sweet!

so i get there and ask for the back brakes to be adjusted and the front end alignment and was gonna get tires next weekend .....well after a half an hour they ask for the dreaded sir take a walk back with me and look at a couple things.......damn it!

they started off by saying my drivers side front is stiff to turn by hand the other is fine i adjusted the wheel bearings in it this morning cuz there was play but its the caliper is stuck and needs new rotors!
second off ur rims dont fit the car...uh what? that the spacing is wrong and dont cover the back drums they need more backspaced rims so no new tires....the front end looks good and stong but didnt align cuz of the issues he also showed me where my rear end front pinion seal is leaking the icying drizzled on the cake.

so heres my list of needs now

rotors
calipers
pads
rear end pinion seal
shocks
tires
rims
alignment

wow! geuss im going nowhere for my birthday in 2 weeks yay for me this is a rant im sorry this jus really sucks to look at!
 

Dr Lebaron

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Ya, but how much is it just BS and their trying to make a buck?
Front brakes are no big deal, but add in some flex lines and fuild with the parts.


And there isn't too many good people left who align old Mopars anymore.
Beware.
 

77kickinaspen

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thats what im wondering if anyone here has ever herd of that the back rims not covering the drums not the right size.

i alrdy did new flex line a few months ago when they blew out
 

77kickinaspen

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i do realize that thats the only reason i went there cus the guy had 20yrs experience over the other guy 9 yrs i said yea gimmie the guys that may have done a few aspens in the 80's
 

slant6billy

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In 1993 I took my F body to a NTW(NTB) store. The gave me a similar song. Needless to say they put clip on weights on Aluminum slotted ovals. They requested I put the front rims on the back and put what was on the back on the front. Notice I said I. If they did it, it would be added $$$$. They used an impact wrench incorrectly and the lugs spread on the stud. The icing on the cake was the attitude. I wasted 4 hours with them. I had to drive home on a spare- 2 of them - yes I carried 2. When one of the tires split the sidewall, they could not support it and sent me up the road. With receipt in hand, I went a ways to another NTB. The guy there corrected the other's f- up and some. As soon as some auto shops and garages have to think about doing a job or put thought to it- they throw in the towel and either do it wrong or refuse to do it- too costly I guess. Lesson learned- get to know your local mech/ auto shop first, then bring them business. Even then, you still can get burned. good luck.
 

AMP762

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I took mine to discount tire a couple weeks ago to get two tires on the frt. Sorry sir we can't install them on the frt. I said thanks for nothing,drove to wally world got the tires on the frt.cheaper and faster,no hassle.I did have to sign a safety waiver.Some kind of bs about new tires have to be on the back so you don't loose traction.
 

77kickinaspen

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well the caliper is stuck the pinion seal was clearly leaking had a large smear from seal to bottom of member and the tires one of them is showing cord he was a old guy and sounded like he knew what he was talking about cus evreything i chatted with himabout he knew my valiant got tires from same place i looked and the rims cover the back drums fully so maybe there is truth to this ima call around to the good guys around here and get estimates and advice.
 

77kickinaspen

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big question i just called evreywhere pretty much 200 bucks from oriealys 235 napa 292 carquest i even called local lithia and figured id try and nothing in stock but he told me that chrysler never sold indivudual rotors they were with hub assembly if thats true im hoping what i looked for was with the hub or do they seperate? oriealys was only one hat said and thats shows a hub rotor assembly so what to do? price aint bad even if i can get the hub and stuff from oriealys and calipers at the quest semi metallic dont come loaded with organics
 

Erics5th

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Yeah, do Rock Auto. Even with shipping they will still be cheaper than buying local. You can even get some rotors through Amazon!
 
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77kickinaspen

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srry that was total price rotors calipers and caliper bolts not jus rotors but i like that rockauto has them all with hub so ima prolly get those raybestos dd ones better then going china calipers prolly get thru carquest loaded semi metallics have to get the bolts from napa others said obsolete part

i also see where if i go with new hub and all that i should replace the wheel bearins also i found national and timkin i like timkin brand there a name brand is there one thats better i found the fronts for 40 bucks total so 250 total not to bad but more then i wanted to spend i geuss im not getting that 23inch hd widescreen computer monitor for diablo 3


sadly i wish i could go find a fmj out in ours all i would actually find is geo's hondas and old mustangs and cameros not worth the time to look at cus of rust
 
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res1vw21

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unless yours are rusted/broken or missing why do you need caliper bolts?

Timikins are good and I believe still made in the USA, nationals are now made in china.
 

Mroldart2u

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I am not going to disect the OP's original post but will interject my thoughts on the matter.. first would have said, and you cant do the Front end alignment exactly WHY? ( i didnt really understand in the first post) and what does the backspacing have to do with the alignment, and or the brake adjustment? Sounds like they just wanted to sucker you into a bunch of repairs that maybe be needed but that you can do yourself...Am not for sure WHY you need NEW rotor/hubs and cant turn them but maybe grooved, worn to thin to resurface etc. Calipers can be rebuilt also, but most ppl do replace because they are 'loaded' with the pads.... I would research a little more deeply before just buying new and replacing... (yeah i'm REAL cheap ) BTW new front tires first, THEN alignment if your tires are worn enough to show cord.... It CAN make a difference in the alignment. M2C
 

Mroldart2u

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I took mine to discount tire a couple weeks ago to get two tires on the frt. Sorry sir we can't install them on the frt. I said thanks for nothing,drove to wally world got the tires on the frt.cheaper and faster,no hassle.I did have to sign a safety waiver.Some kind of bs about new tires have to be on the back so you don't loose traction.

HUH? what were you trying to install on the front? And btw I ALWAYS replace the fronts first with new tires before the rear.... (safety reasons, being a blow out on rear is more manageable than one on the front) I have NEVER heard the 'loss of traction' spiel...
 

BHA43

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HUH? what were you trying to install on the front? And btw I ALWAYS replace the fronts first with new tires before the rear.... (safety reasons, being a blow out on rear is more manageable than one on the front) I have NEVER heard the 'loss of traction' spiel...

The "old school" way was to put the new/best on the front. The NEW way, brought on by I would assume front wheel drive taking over & people not able to drive a "loose" car! I myself like doing a little dirt tracking! Most places have a warning storyboard & make you sign a release for liability!
 

77kickinaspen

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they said they couldnt do a brake adjustment even jus to th back unless the whole brake system checked out safe and the tires they wouldnt even take them off cus of liability and the brake that was sticky i got it freed up most the time jus sometimes it will stick but its worn down pretty far and both rotors have bumps in them ive been wanting to do the brakes for awhile now is best time i would say then tires then maybe alignment.

the only reason they didnt align was cus the backs dont cover the drums on the back they cant work on it they told me i dont care if they were trying to make a buck i do see where they saw the oil in the rear end leaking the tire was showing cord and tire was barley spining a half a turn the pass would go around twice atlewast it was all stacked agenst me not much i could say to them......(hey work on my unsafe car)

itll take a couple hundred bucks to get it right but it will all be new ima order the stuff up my are unturnable really low pass might be able to but while im there why not replace it all.and the caliper bolts i figured jus get new as well cus when i last mesed with the brakes the capiler hose bolt broke so who knows how strong those bolts are either?i dont wanna get into it and have it break and wait 2days for shipping on those this is my daily driver

i think ima need

oil seal timkin
rotors raybestos/or bendix
calipers loaded semi metallics from car quest
bearings timkin
hub nut retainer and nut doorman says these should be replaced evreytime there taken off

then all will be new and good wont have to worry bout front brakes for awhile ive been dreading th back drums more but ill do them seprate times wont be so bad on the wallet.
 

res1vw21

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Damn dude, do you realize how hard your posts are to read? Take a second to read through them....
 

ramenth

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HUH? what were you trying to install on the front? And btw I ALWAYS replace the fronts first with new tires before the rear.... (safety reasons, being a blow out on rear is more manageable than one on the front) I have NEVER heard the 'loss of traction' spiel...

The "old school" way was to put the new/best on the front. The NEW way, brought on by I would assume front wheel drive taking over & people not able to drive a "loose" car! I myself like doing a little dirt tracking! Most places have a warning storyboard & make you sign a release for liability!

The new school way of thinking is brought to you by a lawsuit against Michelin and an approved Michelin dealership, oh, about five or so years ago. And, yes, it was on a front driver. The store installed the new tires on the front of the car and she drifted out of control in wet conditions. Think about it. No weight on the ass necessitates the good tread being on the rear of a front driver. Even with bald tires, the weight of the drivetrain will still allow for some traction to be gained on the front. (Drive a front driver with about an inch of water on the road with two bald tires on the rear and you'll see what I'm talking about.) Now go reverse of that in rear drivers, front to rear weight bias is a little different, but traction set up is different. What happens if you goose a rear driver with bald tires in wet conditions? Back bumper has a tendency to pass the front bumper. Weight of the engine will still keep some traction on the front for steering purposes.

Remember, guys, we're talking about average drivers here, not car guys. Think that 40 year old woman who has only driven Honda Civics all her life and who just talked her hubby into buying her the new Mustang or that idiot who doesn't even know how to check his own oil weaving in and out of traffic yakking on his cell phone. These aren't safe drivers to begin with, so the shops have to cover their asses for liability.

I give out free rotations with every LOF in my shop. But anymore, if there's a couple of tires that have significantly less tread than the other two, the two good ones are going on - or staying on - the rear, no matter what the car.
 
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