Any big block oil pan pictures on a F-Body

Engines, Exhaust and Fuel Systems

  1. volarebb

    volarebb Member

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    I am getting ready to swap a different big block into my Volare. The one in it now has a 187 oil pan with the notch for A and C body steering clearance. It does not look like the notch needs to be there. I could swap it to the new engine if I need to, but the new engine is already painted and ready to go. So any clearance issues turning to the right especially? The oil pan on the new engine it a stock Summit replacement pan with no notch. I am using Schumacher mounts on a s6 k-frame.
     
  2. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    I use a milodon pan with out the notch. I will add that I have fabricated mounts but my engine sits low in the k member with no interference with steering components.
     
  3. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    I can post a pic of mine when I get home tonight. I've got a Milodon stock replacement type pan (with matching pickup tube) and it fits prefectly, no issues.
     
  4. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    The FMJ bodies do not need the notch (that A or C-bodies need).
    Personally, I favor getting as big as an oil pan that will fit. The stock big blocks (not the HP versions) only held 4 quarts of oil - which is less than what most 4-cyl cars do.

    Your original notched oil pan (if in decent shape) might sell for as much as a good new oil pan will.
    BudW
     
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  5. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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    I put a 100% stock 440 mag in mine when I had it, zero pan issues. Mine was a /6 car as well.
     
  6. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Well, as promised (or threatened, lol) here's a pic of the Milodon pan. It used to be gold anodized but it started to discolor and, I never liked it anyways so,,,,,,painted it orange when it was off for the third time trying to solve my rear main seal leak (third time was the charm, or was it the 4th, long story :confused:). As mentioned, no clearance issues even at full lock in either direction.

    BTW, rear trans mount at stock height and S6 k-frame converted to V-8 (by welding on V-8 brackets on in place of the S6 ones), and "stock" mounts, sump sits flush with bottom of k-frame.

    DSC00517.JPG
     
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  7. Demonracer

    Demonracer Active Member

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    Aspen500, do you have a part number on that pan & pick up?
     
  8. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Milodon Chrysler Oil Pans This will show you what Milodon has available (which is a lot more than I want to re-type).

    Here is a note on their website that I thought was interesting:
    Screenshot 2021-01-22 153714.png

    This is a pan I've been eyeballing: (Milodon 31580)
    Milodon 31580.png
    I would like that extra quart of oil. I'm pretty sure it will fit, but not 100%, though.
    BudW
     
  9. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Mine came from Summit. It will tell you which pickup is needed. The stock pickup won't work because of the baffles in the pan.
    What I like is, the pan rails are dead flat which means no leaks. The pan I originally used came from 440 Source and it leaked like a sieve. See pic for visual of why. JUNK. Milodon has dead straight rails (I checked before using it, lol) and seemingly double the material thickness of the 440 Source one.
    Pan was MIL-30760 and pickup MIL-18660. In the Summit print catalog, Milodon has a chart and you follow across to find the pickup (and gasket, etc) for that pan. Not sure about how it's listed on-line since my internet sucks donkey dick, and I can't get the Summit site to load right now.:mad:

    Like XfbodyX said, in the original S6 to 440 swap back in '89 I used the pan that came on the engine. IIRC it came out of a '71 Roadrunner. No issues.

    DSC00424.JPG
     
  10. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Using the Milodon road race pan on my setup. 400 block with Shumacher mounts. Trimmed the welded lip on the K a little to with installation.

    20170731_150647.jpg

    20170129_161032.jpg

    20170731_150702.jpg
     
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  11. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    I see you've got the passenger side outlet pump housing also. Solves many cooling system plumbing problems when the outlet is on the same side as the lower radiator inlet (he says, going off topic a hair). Don't need the hose running across from one side to the other.
     
  12. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    Unless you want to use an early radiator it's the only way to go. You do need to address the radiator hose issue in that the hose needs to be larger at the water pump housing than the radiator. I used a hose sleeve over the radiator end.
     
  13. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    I used a molded hose with the larger diameter at the housing. What the hose is actually for, I don't remember anymore other than it was a Chrysler product. Should have wrote it down.:confused:
     
  14. Demonracer

    Demonracer Active Member

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    Thanks for all of the information, now we have a starting place for the pan in a 79 F body with a 511 stroker.
     
  15. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Problem is it conceals the timing pointer on my car. I'm running a cast aluminum cover. Actually going to change back over to the driver's outlet housing.
     
  16. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    What I did was make a TDC mark on the pump outlet itself. Still able to see the balancer mark and with a degree adjustable timing light, it isn't too bad to set timing.
     
  17. LSM360

    LSM360 Well-Known Member

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    Duke5A, Aspen500, and BudW are the heart and soul of the super valuable information here!!!

    I still owe Duke5A some pics of my awesome frame ties!!! Got to get under the car and take some soon!!!
     
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