Yes, but your paying for the can & propellant 50 percent or better. You're lucky if you get 6 oz's in a 12 oz can. I buy it by the gallon for $77. With a plain spray bottle you can adjust the spray pattern & pressure. I don't know good of a deal your Dad gets, but I can find out how much a case discount is. I used to work for Gellner Engineering part time & they swore by PB Blaster. I took in some Kroil & demonstrated it on one of the worst thing to happen on BB Chevy blocks. The oil galley (1/8") pipe plugs near the pan rail are either inverted Allen, or inverted square. Any rust belt block with any age to it will strip or break during removal. You always soak with penetrant first, if that doesn't work, try heat, if that doesn't work, try drilling! I tapped it with a hammer after squirting it down with Kroil, the PB Blaster fan squirted another with Blaster. The Kroil'd plug came right out, he was so frustrated he put to much torque &....... The crossmember from that '83 Ply cop car sat behind my house for almost 20 yrs in the elements. I tried to break the steering gear mounting bolts & nut loose w/o Kroil. 1/2" IR impact at full boogie wouldn't even budge them. A couple of squirts &.... Came right off, didn't even let it soak! The cross members eng. & trans both rusted through, so those those fasteners were really rusted in place. I'm no salesman. I started using Zep, then Blaster, now Kroil. I've used Kroil for over 22 years now. I've found nothing better. On School Bus emergency door hinges, they seize from not being opened & then pressure cleaned & allowed to sit all summer. They will seize to the point of bending the hinge, door, or door frame on the bus. I use a concoction of Kroil & Anti Seize mixed in a Plews hand pump oil can that I force into the hinge. Within seconds, the rust starts running down the body, & within minutes, the hinge will stay free until the next time it gets pressure washed & hot opened.