Coil problem?

[SharkHead]

Replaced the original coil on my 89 Fifth Avenue yesterday with just the standard Carquest suggestion - today the car died at a stoplight and there is no spark coming off the coil, is there something special I should know about these coils or did I just maybe get a bad one?

 

[Mikes5thAve]

If you're sure it's the coil it's probably a dud. There's no special procedure to replace them other then hooking up wires right.

 

[Aspen500]

Made in China? Hate to say it but parts store parts quality is not good these days. We find parts bad right out of the box at work or they die a day later. It's sad and it sucks.

There are a couple different coils, one for points, one for electronic but even if it was a coil for points, it wouldn't die that quick.

 

[SharkHead]

I suspect that "made in China" could be the issue - I still have the old original which works (but arcs and leaks) - I am going to pop it back on and and she if she fires - will update.

 

[SharkHead]

I replaced the Carquest coil with another Carquest coil and it lasted all of 10 minutes, says right on it for use with external resistor, I assume this is the infamous ballast resistor, I recollect somewhere that the 89 did not have the ballast resistor, and I don't see one on my 89 anywhere, so do I need a coil with an internal resistor? BTW she fires right up with the original coil, Mopar part number 417 6009

 

[Aspen500]

Yes, it needs a ballast resistor, which would be bolted to the firewall, or the coil will "fry" from too much voltage. Kind of similar to running a 12 volt bulb on 24 volts. They are made to run approx 7 volts (IIRC) input during engine run and only have battery voltage during engine start when the resistor is bypassed. You need either a ballast resistor to drop the voltage OR a coil made to use 12-14 volts input. Most coils for aftermarket ignition systems don't need a resistor.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

If it is still running with the fuel control computer on the air cleaner there is no separate ballast resistor for it.
That mopar part number is right for the year of car.
Try a coil from a different store. Maybe carquest has junk coils or they're not listed properly for the right application.

 

[Aspen500]

Trouble is in most cases, if the listing is wrong at Carquest, it'll be wrong the same way at Napa, O'Reilly's, etc. it seems. We've run into that at work many times (and it sucks). My guess is they all get their coils (or whatever part) from the same vendor and never check to see if it's actually correct. It's a growing problem that gets worse every year.

 

[SharkHead]

Just to clarify-the car is all original with the original ignition system intact - (air cleaner computer) I agree that the problem seems to be either junk replacement parts or wrong listing - I am going to try and find an original mopar coil in salvage.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

People use new coils all the time with no problem. You shouldn't have to resort to used parts to make it work. Like I said try one from somewhere else. What part number is the new one?

 

[Aspen500]

As long as it doesn't say "for use with external resistor", you'll be good to go.

 

[SharkHead]

Okay, you guys have been most helpful, this is getting it down to the nitty-gritty, apparently the listings are wrong, for example if you go to RockAuto and look up the coil for an 89 Fifth Avenue and look at the illustration it will say for use with external resistor so what I really want is a coil that has its own internal resistor built-in, correct?

 

[SharkHead]

for the record CarQuest calls for an EBC1418 - burnt out two of them so probably not the right application!

 

[80mirada]

The car quest coil is just junk. The non-resistor ignition lean burn used the same coil as earlier lean burn and standard ICU. They have a voltage reducer in the controller to replace the resistor. I had the best luck with Wells/Airtex, and Standard Motor Products coils for stock replacement.

 

[SharkHead]

80 Mirada - R U saying the voltage reducer in the controller is an internal part of the coil? Or is the controller a separate part in the ignition system that could be bad?

 

[SharkHead]

Here is what NAPA is calling for - Ecatalog
direct cross reference for the carquest part numbers that burnt out - clearly says on it "for use with external resistor" The CarQuest unit does not say that but since they directly cross reference I have to assume it is the same in that regard--so I am still stuck here on what to use.

 

[SharkHead]

in reference to above-it edited out the URL when i posted so click on the ecatalog link on on the left check ignition coil- it will come right up-napa part # IC27

 

[80mirada]

The voltage reducer is in the Lean Burn Controller. It uses the same coil as an ignition with resistor. The car quest coil is a piece of shit, same as the one Advanced Auto Parts carries, and they are prone to failure. There are real Mopar 4176009 s on eBay, but they will cost about $40 with shipping.

 

[Aspen500]

Ah, I missed the part about the car still having lean burn Carquest and Advance Auto are one and the same company. IMO, Advance ruined Carquest when they bought it, but that's for a different thread.

Might be $40 for a real Mopar coil but it'll cost less with way less headaches and "what if it dies somewhere" syndrome in the long run. From what we see at work, Mopar has WAY more parts that say "Made in USA" than any other car company, especially GM parts which more often than not say "Made in China". I'm talking factory dealer parts, not aftermarket from a parts store. Guess what? Made in China GM parts are just about as junk as the Chinese aftermarket parts are. What I mean is, hopefully the Mopar coil is Made in USA.

 

[SharkHead]

found an original mopar in salvage--so far so good!