Voeltagear
Well-Known Member
How different are the Abody frame rails to the Fbody? Has anyone compared the 2 side by side? Just asking because the Abody frame rails are readily available.
Drivers side front frame rail
- Thread starter Voeltagear
- Start date
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
That’s like putting a front Abody fender on your Fbody, no work unless you hack the hell out of it and then it’s still not going to work!
Voeltagear
Well-Known Member
Ok. Just thought since the turnaround between the 2 chassis was so fast maybe they used some of the same tooling and the parts might be interchangeable. Especially where they wouldn't be seen. I haven't look real close at the aspen yet. I'll have it home this weekend. I know the driver's side frame rail is no good ahead of the cross frame. Any good sources still in business?
531SuperCoupe
Member
Just learned the other day that diplomats and Fifth Avenues use the same rails. Lots of those around to scavenge from.
Voeltagear
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info!
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Yes, F/M/J are the same. As you know, a-body isn't even close. Left front subframe rail rot is very common, even on relatively rust free F-body cars. My theory is battery acid fumes getting in at the front, and settling in the lower areas. Just a theory though and may be way off base!
If for some reason any A-body body parts fit your FMJ, then it is more of a fluke than anything else.
\The F-body (later modified to M and J-body) was a clean sheet of paper re-design. They did intend on using some existing mechanical parts (spool type engine mounts, steering gear, spindles, rear differential parts (not width, though) and so on/so forth.
After working on A (or older B)-body dashes, the F and M-body is SO MUCH easier, among other things.
IF A-body body parts would fit FMJ's - that would benefit us by a huge amount.
BudW
\The F-body (later modified to M and J-body) was a clean sheet of paper re-design. They did intend on using some existing mechanical parts (spool type engine mounts, steering gear, spindles, rear differential parts (not width, though) and so on/so forth.
After working on A (or older B)-body dashes, the F and M-body is SO MUCH easier, among other things.
IF A-body body parts would fit FMJ's - that would benefit us by a huge amount.
BudW
I like that theory.
Even on older Mopars, the floor pan by the L/F frame rail would rust out way before the passenger side does.
I've seen (and replaced) a bunch of battery trays on Mopars before, as well.
BudW
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
I would have thought if it was the battery that it would happen to other types of cars too. But I don't know what else is different to that one side.
It was mainly the earlier years prone to rusting out there
It was mainly the earlier years prone to rusting out there
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
The Fbody started rusting before it’s paint was dry…
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
The reason I bought a battery with a vent tube, which I ran down to the bottom of the car. Also keeps the top of the battery clean, and no terminal corrosion. It makes a huge difference.
GM's did the same thing, maybe worse. With the side post, people usually didn't see it but the battery terminal post would leak and it ran down and rotted everything out. Your battery can be a very lethal source of corrosion and other maladies if you don't keep an eye on it
