First Time Replacing Hoses - Questions

[Justwondering]

I'm doing what I should have done when I put in the new a/c compressor-- replacing all hoses.
My first observation - what a rush! This was such a great project, I can really see why folks enjoy wrenching. Like a 3-d puzzle.

I have several questions.

Q1. What kind of clamp is this?

Q2. Is there a better way to remove it than using long nose pliers and prayer?

Q3. Is there a reason that I have both the clamps above and the worm? clamp (screw clamp) on the same hose but at different ends?

Q4. What does the water valve? do on the heater hose? Should I have replaced it when I replaced the hoses?

Q5. I couldn't find enough detail diagrams in my service manual so I don't know the name but here is a picture:

The short 90 degree elbow hose that goes from the opening near the thermostat (arrow) down to the opening at the bottom... that hose. What is the secret to getting the new one on?

Q6. How long between times changing out a thermostat and gasket? This gasket was gooey and just about non-existent.

Q7. Why did this clamp rust but other one near it didn't?

I backed the screw all the way out and the rusted clamp didn't move. Used a hammer and screwdriver to get it carefully levered off.

Q8. How often do you replace hoses?

Q9. Is it normal for the ends of the hoses to have to be cut to get them off the car? Some ends were very brown, none were brittle, but a couple had a bulge on the up side of the clamp.

 

[Darth-Car]

So many Questions, so little time.

That 3 prong clamp is a factory hose clamp, and they come off with pliers just fine. They are generally not available in the after-market in favor of the screw clamps.

The water valve shuts off the flow of coolant to the heater core when the car temperature setting are only calling for cooling. When you call for heat that valve opens, and allows coolant to flow through the heater core.

Hoses, and thermostats have improved greatly since the 70's. Now they can both go for many years without issue. As long as hoses feel soft, and flexible, leave them alone. The gauge will tell you when the thermostat is starting to fail.

 

[Aspen500]

The short 90* hose is the bypass hose. When the t-stat is closed it allows coolant to circulate through the engine while bypassing the radiator. The secret to getting it on is lube the insides with coolant and put it on the manifold, then bend as needed to fit to the pump. They can be kind of a pain sometimes.

Yes, it is normal to need to cut a hose to remove it when it's been on there for many years. They bond themselves to the fitting basically and in some cases, slitting is the only way it'll ever come off. Sometimes even then it won't

Spring clamps are preferred to worm gear. The spring clamps keep constant pressure no matter the temperature of the hose or age where the worm gear ones tend to get loose over time and usually dig into the hose as well. Plus, the spring clamps just plain look better You almost have to go to a car dealer to get new ones of the type you have though or a resto supplier. Don't know of any parts store that carries them.

Better than long nose pliers is the correct spring clamp pliers OR a wide jaw regular pliers that'll grab both tangs on the one side.

The one clamp rusted probably from either coolant seepage over the years or it was a lesser quality clamp to begin with than the others.

 

[Justwondering]

Thanks for the help!

I'll try that bypass hose again about 7 this evening. I think I was just getting way to hot this morning and then disheartened when I saw how much wiring damage was done by the packrat.

Tomorrow is a new day and hardware store will be open so I can get splices for wiring.

This evening my plan is to get the last three hoses on.

 

[Justwondering]

All the hoses are now reconnected.
I just need to repair the wiring the packrat ate.

 

[7T8 Custom]

You need to get some kind of motion sensing laser turret to zap all the critters that want to live in and/or eat parts of your car. Or I suppose a sealed garage to to store it in would work as well but I kind of like the idea of the turret.

 

[Justwondering]

I tried mothballs, but that was not working.
So I've moved on to the super duty glue traps -- two in the engine compartment, one in the front floor board, and one in the trunk.

At least until I get the turret delivered....

 

[BudW]

Q1. What kind of clamp is this?
Spring clamps. There is the flat version and a wire version.

Q2. Is there a better way to remove it than using long nose pliers and prayer?
They also make plyers and tools made to remove/install them. I kinda like them better, because with correct tools, they are faster and more likely not to leak afterwards.
That said, you can’t find those clamps just anywhere.
They can also manufacture the car faster with spring clamps.

The first two are lockable.

Q3. Is there a reason that I have both the clamps above and the worm? clamp (screw clamp) on the same hose but at different ends?
Some clamps are installed to engine before engine is installed. Some hoses may come from part supplier with clamp pre-attached.

Q4. What does the water valve? do on the heater hose? Should I have replaced it when I replaced the hoses?
If hot water valve is working (switching water on/off) and is not leaking, no need to replace it.
Note: no hot water circulation inside car when HVAC system is off or if A/C is in MAX position.

Q5. I couldn't find enough detail diagrams in my service manual so I don't know the name but here is a picture:
Mentioned earlier, that is the coolant bypass hose.

“What is the secret to getting the new one on?”
Holding your tongue just right.

Q6. How long between times changing out a thermostat and gasket?
The gasket - when it is leaking or if needed removed for something else.
Thermostat, when it quits working - which is not often. Those thermostats are pretty reliable.

Be sure to clean the thermostat bolt holes with a tap/or thread chaser and make sure they are dry before bolting down. A bit of light Loctite (blue, I think is the color) will help keep corrosion down.

Q7. Why did this clamp rust but other one near it didn't?
Most hose clamps are made of stainless steel - but not all are. Also, if coolant gets in one long term, it can make 'em rust.

Q8. How often do you replace hoses?
When needed. They should be flexible, not spongy, not hard as a rock and no bulges.

Q9. Is it normal for the ends of the hoses to have to be cut to get them off the car? Some ends were very brown, none were brittle, but a couple had a bulge on the up side of the clamp.
If I’m replacing a heater core, for example, I will plan on cutting the hoses off.
If I don’t need to, then great - they will get reused.

You said “bulge on the up side of the clamp” - is a disaster just waiting to happen.
I buy heater hose by the box, to use in my fleet, or other cars I work on.

A quote I give people: “Heater hoses happen”!

 

[Justwondering]

So the only flaw in my set up was not cleaning out the bolt holes well enough. I also found the missing bolt (since replaced) that fell out when I removed the a/c compressor the first time.

I did take time scrap crud and blow as much of the dirt, grime, and mouse droppings off everything. Gross. Totally gross.

The manifold? that runs across the top of the engine-- has the hole that I pour the oil in - it is losing lots of paint on both sides. Much of the metal around the top of the engine is rusted and paint is flaking.

I think I got the bypass hose on well but it seems a little flat at the curve. I'm going to take it to the mechanic and have him go over everything I've done and make sure I haven't got something wrong.

Thanks for the guidance from everyone.

 

[Justwondering]

When I got the wiring patched this morning, the car had no water leaks that I could see.

Its now down at the mechanic getting a once over to make sure I did things correctly and to get the a/c charged.

Thanks for everyone's help on this.

 

[MiradaMegacab]

Put some white lithium grease on the hose bibs, nipples , radiator connections for easy future hose removals........

 

[BudW]

The factory didn’t put much emphasis on engine paint – and not uncommon for areas not to get painted or other areas that got lots of paint (the exhaust manifolds) for no reason.

If building an engine, using primer and a bit of time, makes for a much better paint job.

The tin-wear (valve covers and oil pan) are real bad for factory paint to stick on.
I wouldn’t be surprised if the original tin had a coating of oil (for stamping or manufacture) on them before painting, and we all know how well paint and oil mix.

I suspect that maybe why Chrysler went to black for engines, so paint wasn’t as noticeable (which is a horrible color for engines), in my opinion.

In this picture, working from bottom up, you have the water pump (barley seen), timing cover (has a flat dish like top surface), intake manifold then air cleaner (top).
Also seen in this picture is the coolant bypass hose and both heater hoses. Missing in this picture is the A/C compressor (this vehicle car came from factory without A/C).
You might not be able to see, but the front most bypass hose clamp was painted blue from the factory.

Valve covers. Note: paint on these is typical to what I see sometimes. Picture swiped from eBay.
.
Note: I have seen oil pans and valve covers rust from outside in, so a lack of paint is not a good thing.
In my opinion, a good painted surface is also easier to keep clean.

the top and bottom picture is from my '77 Volare 318 with 37k miles on it. The red arrows are missing paint (in case you can't see it.
There are some differences between the years (paint color, breather color and shape, intake is different, Lean Burn and a few other differences - but most is the same.

BudW

 

[Justwondering]

So everything I'm seeing on this engine is normal although not optimum for long life.

I don't want to be a bad owner... lol

 

[BudW]

basicially, yes.

No way to prove it, but I really think the factory didn’t de-grease the parts before painting.

Most of the engine rebuilds I’ve seen, the paint job is in a way different class.
Also, paint can be another layer of sealer at a gasket surface – so when painting an engine, be sure to give the gasket edges an extra shot of paint.

I can’t show you the missing paint on my ’86, because, I um, have a nice layer of grease on outside of engine to, um, keep it from rusting – yea that’s it.

Mumbles incoherently about something about replacing said 318 with something bigger soon . . .

 

[Justwondering]

Aw shucks...
I just checked the Dually and there is a sweet coating of power steering fluid all down under.
Its just protection til I get new hoses. Thats it .. protection.

 

[BudW]

It might be from transmission cooler lines/hoses, unless you opted for the manual transmission variety, possibly.

 

[Justwondering]

I'm thinking its the power steering. I just added some fluid before Monday's run and I know I put some about mid-July. Since I haven't driven it much, I'm thinking that leak is power steering.

 

[Justwondering]

Got the brake sensor put back in the correct place -- mechanic laughed about it. Said he could tell I did a thorough job, but missed that one thing.

Also, the driver side of the hood sits proud of the fender by about 1/4 inch so I can say that I must take that one heater hose off and make it just a bit shorter as well as re-route it under the other hoses so it doesn't push up on the underside of the hood.

None of the hoses except the top heater hose and the bypass hose were preformed, but at least its all running now.

 

[BudW]

Until front wheel drives came about, I don’t recall seeing many “pre-formed” heater hoses.
That said, coolant bypass hoses are another matter.

I only measure to get a rough amount of hose to purchase.
When cutting hose to length, I but both hoses side by side – so there is no question.

Measurements I have found published from Chrysler (’84 M-body) are:
Heater core to water pump 46 inches
Heater core to hot water valve 29 inches
Hot water valve to intake 13 inches
Note: I think those last two measurements are reversed.

BudW

 

[Justwondering]

I think the 46 inch hose is cut too long or I mis-routed it and it is pushing against the underside of the hood.
I'll check it when the temp gets below 100 again. lol