Fuel Level Always Reads Empty

[Leizurtime]

You guys were right, it is the correct style of sending unit. Save for the fact that it is missing the evap tube. Side by side, they nearly look identical. When I pulled my sending unit, instantly noticed the brass float missing, obviously the culprit. I thought about just putting the new float on the old and that would probably get me on the road again, but the old unit has suffered too much deterioration and I will be modifying the new unit with an evap tube. Think I got a guy who can weld one on for me.

 

[volare 77]

Honestly, if it was my car I would buy a brass float and clean the old one up. The repro replacements are never as accurate. Then sell the new one. Also those aftermarket lock rings are outright dangerous. They are flimsy at best. You are absolutely right about the location of the sending unit. If it leaks you will have a mess. Ask me how I know.

 

[Leizurtime]

Honestly, if it was my car I would buy a brass float and clean the old one up. The repro replacements are never as accurate. Then sell the new one. Also those aftermarket lock rings are outright dangerous. They are flimsy at best. You are absolutely right about the location of the sending unit. If it leaks you will have a mess. Ask me how I know.

I was tempted to Frankenstein the new piece onto mine, just to get me back on the road. However, i have doubts as to the condition of the existing unit. There's rust inside the resistance apparatus, on the wiring connections, tubing and the arm for the float doesn't move very freely. I'd feel allot safer about the new one. I may have to pull the old one in short order if i put it back in.

 

[BudW]

Honestly, if it was my car I would buy a brass float and clean the old one up. The repro replacements are never as accurate.

I almost agree with that. If his fuel gauge works fine, then yea, fix the float, replace the fuel sock, and keep going (you can get new floats and socks aftermarket).
If his gas gauge was not working, then I don’t have a good answer to give

Nice and shiny vs. his old one.

BTW, most Chrysler fuel gauges made in this time frame, didn’t have very accurate fuel gauges. It is as if the gauge registers only the last 4/5ths of the tank – with the first 1/5th not even being registered (IE: fuel gage is on Full tank for about 1/5th of the tank, then it shows 3/4th tank when take is actually at 3/5ths, and so forth).

Almost always, then a fuel sender that says tank is empty - the tank is indeed empty. I would rather have the empty part of sender work and be accurate, than the full aspect of the sender.

Actually I want both to be accurate, but not devised of a way to get both to work correctly without major re-wiring.
The cost and time spent vs. benefit gained is just not there, for me.

Also those aftermarket lock rings are outright dangerous. They are flimsy at best.

Reuse your old lock ring unless it is mangled beyond reuse.
The new seal should work fine. Install the seal dry and without any other sealant.

 

[Leizurtime]

So I tested the resistance on my old unit. It shows 75 ohms at empty and after moving the float slightly it goes to infinity. The new unit reads 10 ohms at full and I have another that I pulled from a diplomat it reads 11 ohm at full. So something appears to be wrong with the original unit.

 

[volare 77]

I forget exactly what the range is suppose to be but I think it is like 10 to 75 ohms. Most aftermarket cheapys seem to be about 10-90 or so. Also the sweep windings aren`t nearly as consistent on the aftermarket ones. If you only listen to one thing I say please do not use a aftermarket lock ring , find a NOS one. Mine was so flimsy the gauge started leaking in my garage and it put about 5 gallons of gas on the floor.

 

[BudW]

If you only listen to one thing I say please do not use a aftermarket lock ring, find a NOS one.

I will agree with Volare 77 – do not use an aftermarket sender lock ring – except for a paperweight (which it might do a poor job for that as well).

Either reuse your old one or find a NOS one somewhere.
The aftermarket ones will ONLY cause you more problems.

Go to FBBO or FABO and you will see that everyone has problems with the aftermarket lock rings.
BudW

 

[Leizurtime]

Found a guy to grind off the original evap tube and weld it to the new one. Luckily for me, i still have the original lock ring.

 

[volare 77]

looks good

 

[BudW]

Shiny!

Be sure to use new hoses.
Also, don't forget the ground strap clip thingy.

 

[Leizurtime]

I'm curious, I'm the pre-April 1977 model, with the hump gas tank and lower mounted sending unit. Will a latter 1977 gas tank fit in my model?

 

[volare 77]

No the later tank or sending unit will not fit. The early tank has a hump and the trunk floor is different.

 

[BudW]

I don't have an answer for you, yet – but you might want to look at this thread Love at first sight Post # 9, at the differences on trunk pan.

I'm contemplating changing to newer fuel tank and trunk pan, on my '77 wagon (made November 11, 1976 at 10 am (or 10am on 11/11/76).

MDH is Month Day Hour (but no record of minutes). In this case, just a few minutes early of 111111.
BudW