Fuel Tank, Sender, Pump and moving Tank

[Bruceynz]

Hi Guys,

Ok, I have embarked on another mission, as you are aware I am down grading my fuel pump.

I have some bits n pieces I am going to ship over so to make shipment worth while I bought a new fuel tank and sender unit off ebay. Big bulky items I can't USPS over to NZ.

But What I want to do is move tank over a bit but the fuel filler neck will be to short, if I do that, what do you guys to do get around that?

Thanks
Bruce

 

[88_AHB]

I'm assuming you want to move the tank over a notch where it sits to the tank straps? So that you can run dual exhaust all the way out the back?

I've thought of doing the same,if that is your goal here.I was planning on taking the original fuel filler neck out and get some same diameter tubing as the neck.Mock everything in place and measure how much I'd need to add.Then remove the neck, weld in the additional tubing needed to make the filler neck work again.If I had to guess as of right now about 1.5-2 inches additional tubing to add to the neck.

 

[Oldiron440]

You can by hose for the job....you should be able to get the exact length you need.

 

[Bruceynz]

Do you have a link, I thought the filler neck was steel or alloy, I have not had a good look, I don't recall it being made of hose, do you have a link to the material you are talking about?

Thanks
Bruce

 

[Aspen500]

You would need to cut your filler pipe in half and add in the needed length of fuel filler hose to make up the difference. Here is a link to some. Not sure off hand what the O.D. of the filler pipe is off hand but I'm thinking the first one shown on the page would work. It's 2" I.D. and 6" long. There are different diameters listed, you'll have to scroll and search the department.
Fuel Tank Filler Neck Hoses

It's also very possible a local truck or tractor parts store would have the bulk fuel filler hose, just buy the length you need. It's specific hose, do NOT use radiator hose or anything similar. It will fail.

 

[Bruceynz]

I would actually like a whole new filler neck, in USA for some reason the fuller is small diameter, the nozzle just fits in, I have to pump the gas real slow as if I go fast it clicks the pump off all the time, the Japanese cars here have a larger filler hole and the nozzle can flop around in the hole and let the air out, gas goes in real fast, whats the deal with the small neck diameter?

 

[Oldiron440]

Go to a tractor dealer they have all the correct hose you need and will sell you the length you need.

 

[Bruceynz]

Whats the deal with the small diameter filler neck in USA?

 

[Oldiron440]

Are you talking about the inlet hole at the top of the filler hoses?
If you are, the small hose hole is for unleaded gas, at one time we could buy unleaded or leaded gas. The leader gas filler gun had a larger facet line that unleaded so you couldn't put leaded in an unleaded vehicle. In the early unleaded days the converters were removed and the plate was knocked out of the fillers.

 

[volare 77]

Years ago you could get the large opening filler neck if you ordered one for a export vehicle. I highly doubt any of those are around anymore.

 

[78VOLAREWAG]

I just put the tank back in my Volare wagon last night. My filler neck slides a good 6 inches into the tank. Pretty sure now that I could slide the tank 1 rib, without modify the filler. Has anyone tried?

 

[Bruceynz]

Hey this is good news! Never thought of that, one or 2 ribs over would be all I need!

 

[Bruceynz]

Ok this is a pic I posted before, this is what it looks like in the back end for tank placement

looks like no rib/valley for strap??

 

[BudW]

In the mid ‘70’s, USA was going to unleaded fuel. Catalytic converters will get stopped up (and oxygen sensors) using the cheaper leaded fuel. There might have even been health related items as well using leaded fuel. I will attempt not to go into a rant about the whole issue - for I have some disagreements with issue. To prevent people from using leaded gasoline, the unleaded fuel filler nozzles had a smaller tube – which fit into the “flapped” hole in the cars fuel filler neck.

The cars that were not for unleaded fuel (mostly for export), did not have cat converters on them, had a full-size fuel filler neck. In the USA, leaded fuel was banned for sale starting in 1996 (and in NZ the same year, it appears).

Sense leaded fuel is no longer for sale, there is no need for that flap or flap plate in the fuel filler neck – so if you want to part with it, you could cut it out (I suppose).


Getting back to your original question, if a person was to find a second filler neck, a person could cut off a portion of it and weld two filler necks together to get the length you need. Personally, I would use the fuller neck hose to lengthen your metal tube with. The fuel tank is not under much pressure so I would not have a problem using hose.


Now to your last question, hum, while scratching his hairy chin. I don’t recall seeing a lack of a rib, there before.

Before committing to the fuel tank move/change, there are a few options available to you.
One is use of AAR/TA Challenger side exhaust

Another is to run the drivers side exhaust over and above the differential and run both out the passenger side of fuel tank. It would still be dual exhaust but exiting out one side. I think Aspen500 has this setup.

Even another option is to run exhaust between the leaf spring and behind the rear tires. I have seen pictures of that option in our forums, as well.

I hadn’t gotten that far along yet to have any recommendations. I really like the AAR/TA size exhaust – but that is not practical on more-door cars for it tends to burn rear passenger legs on entry/exit (this is not a problem on 2-door cars).
BudW

Pictures of AAR/TA exhaust system

 

[jasperjacko]

I ran a full 3" exhaust out pass side of car. May not look as cool as duals, but it works great.

 

[brotherGood]

Heres how my exhaust is currently routed. It dumps out before the wheels. My only complaint is how the exit is routed causes issues whenever trying to lift the car as it doesnt allow the leaf's to really move/rotate as needed.

I'm strongly considering either moving the tank or dumping at the axle when I change setups (headers/Xpipe/possible cutouts) but I'll look into that more the closer I get to it

 

[Bruceynz]

Ok have another muffler fitted, it tucks in the back between tank and leaf spring. It has Lowered sound level and given a deeper exhaust note. It seems it has dropped from 88dBa to 78dba it's hard to get exact reading as Numbers move a little when running, but that's aporox 10dba at idle. If you drove it or revved I am sure it would of been well over 95dba!!