There is a lot to unpack here.
I have the tendency to call any engine computer system for any FMJ (or B, R or C body) “Lean Burn” – even though Chrysler only used that term the first couple of years. For whatever reason, “Lean Burn” has been burned into my brain.
My experience is the computer system gets blamed for most problems but rarely is it the source of problems. I would say it is the source of less than 5% of problems that people blame on it. All the other 95%+ problems are normal non-computerized car problems (fuel, ignition, compression, etc.).
Now with that said, your clicking problem and intermittent problem might point that direction.
Automotive choke thermostats (the bimetallic spring portion) does wear out and will eventually stick in a mid-position after 10-15 years. On the shelf, they will last a long time, but the constant heat cycles (0 to 220’ and back/forth) and rust just does them in after time. I recommend changing the choke thermostat on any Chrysler carbureted vehicle (first) that is having drivability problems and if existing choke age is not known (or is over 10 years old, or older). Included with that is to make sure the choke heater circuit is hooked up and working and choke pull off is hooked up and working. It doesn’t matter if carburetor was made by Carter, Holley or Rochester (Q-Jet).
There is a lot of items that can make a clicking noise on your car. Only one that can injure a person is the ignition system and even then, you will inflect more pain from jumping/jerking away than what the high voltage ignition system can do to you. Touching something that is hot is a different matter, so I do recommend getting some gloves first, even cheap jersey gloves.
Areas I know that can click is:
- Starter relay (only when key is in “start” mode)
- Cruise servo (only when car is moving 30 MPH or higher and cruise is engaged)
- Wiper motor and/or wiper delay (when wipers are on – unless something is wrong with wipers).
- A/C clutch relay or other compressor related switches under hood that controls A/C compressor operation.
- The carburetor mixture control (MC) solenoid. This part is always in motion up/down and its noise can be a buzz, a rumble, a click, a stutter or several various other noises. Mostly the MC solenoid is not that apparent unless air cleaner is off, and you are working close by it – but sometimes it can be on the noisy side. Off to the front passenger side corner of carburetor is a 6-wire black plugin. Unplug that connector when engine is on (or unplug then turn engine on), can confirm the MC solenoid as being noisy. Just don’t leave it unplugged.
- On the firewall, there are two vacuum solenoids side by side (white circle, below). One turns the EGR valve on/off. The other solenoid (ASRV). This solenoid controls the switching valve for the A.I.R. pump (by the P/S pump). The A.I.R. pump sends air all the time but depending on temp of engine. The air is sent to exhaust manifolds or sent downstream to the rear catalytic converter. The firewall mounted solenoid or the A.I.R. pump mounted switching valve (yellow circle, below) can both make noise, sometimes – but unless there is a good-sized vacuum leak, they are either on or off.
- The PCV valve came make noise, sense that part is constantly moving – but generally not audible.
- A short in wiring harness can affect some electrical solenoids – making a click noise.
- Nonelectrical items can make noise as well, like a bad water pump bearing, idler pulley bearing and so forth.
Something to keep in mind. The Feedback carburetors have about 10% adjustability (5% movement to lean side and 5% towards rich side) so they have some flexibility to them – when using 100% gasoline. 10% Ethanol came out after our cars were made. Not only is the alcohol harmful to many metal/rubber components of our car – it also uses about 10% more fuel. On a properly running car using 5% Ethanol, you would be right on the border of carburetors limit to adjust the fuel ratio. A 10% Ethanol is not in that limit and will make car run, well like (insert a 4-letter word here). Please avoid using 10% Ethanol in our cars – or get carburetor re-jetted to use 10% Ethanol (but then don’t use any 100% gasoline). Personally, I think you are just better off with 100% gasoline.
BudW