Hard start

[Deano]

I've finally gotten my car running well enough to start driving it places a little farther away. Thing is, if I go into a convenient store or shut it off for a minute or two, it's hard as hell to get it running good enough to get going. After I get it running, it's fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, filter, new plugs and wires, rotor, and distributor cap. I've managed to repair the vacuum leak (brake booster). What else is there?

 

[Master M]

Carburetor may need some attention. I had a similar issue to yours.

 

[Deano]

It's a two month old new -remanufactured- carb. I had a "mechanic" install and adjust it for me. Maybe he didn't really know as much as I thought he did.

It takes a few tries to finally get it started, stalls when I put it into any gear, but when I get it running, it's fine.

 

[Master M]

I know the Lean Burn does just that, it leans it out almost to the point of dying especially when cold. My original carb was rebuilt
and it runs good. I did have a problem like yours when it wouldn't start after sitting for a few minutes after shutting it off.
I disconnected the fuel line at the carb and it was partially plugged with some white stuff. I cleaned it out and has not done that since.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Did you replace the choke that bolts to the intake when you did the carb? Usually hard starting after it's been running is a carb/choke problem.

 

[Deano]

The choke wouldn't close when the engine is warm, would it?

I replaced the choke when I put the first carb on it. I've already installed two different BBDs (first one was remanned by National, the other by TomCo) now trying to eliminate the problem.

If I were to disconnect the fuel line at the filter under the car, would it damage anything if I took an air hose and blew back toward the tank? Obviously I would take the fuel cap off before I did anything like that.

When I had the new exhaust installed on it, I was walking around under the car and noticed a filter under the passenger seat. It was bone dry. Could I have a partially blocked fuel line?

 

[Mikes5thAve]

If there's something wrong with the choke it could start closing too soon causing issues. I was chasing problems non stop with the shitty 2bbl on my 360 and one problem a mopar buddy found was that heat riser valve on the exaust manifold wasn't working right.

low air in the line shouldn't cause problems but you'd be blowing any crud back into the sock in the gas tank, if it's still in place after all these years. You'd be better to disconnect the line at both ends to blow it out. There shouldn't be a filter under the car and no real reason for it unless someone knew there was crap in the lines and they were trying to pre filter it. You might want to pull that one out or at least try changing it.

 

[Deano]

Low air in the line shouldn't cause problems but you'd be blowing any crud back into the sock in the gas tank, if it's still in place after all these years.

I never thought about that.

At first startup, I always have to take the air cleaner lid off and set the choke myself. The blade closes but not far as it should.

The filter is along the frame rail, right at the passenger seat. One of these jokers.

 

[Aspen500]

Check to make sure the heat riser valve moves and isn't stuck shut. It can cause hard hot restart due to the excessive heat under the carb base boiling the fuel and basically flooding the engine and emptying the fuel bowl. It's worse nowdays than it was 30 years ago due to fuel being formulated for high psi EFI which means it will boil/vaporize at a lower temperature. Modern gas isn't really made for carburetors.

Normally there is only the filter after the pump. You can see if the pickup sock is plugged by removing the gas cap and blowing low psi air into the line and listening for the "gurgle". I mean like 10 psi or less and not when the tank is completely full. If it's restricted. that may clear it out enough to be OK.

Just a couple ideas anyways.

 

[AJ/FormS]

FYI
I really don't think this has much to do with your problem, but;
If that filter is in fact in the 5/16 supply line, the clamps have to be tight and the hose supple, because the pump will much rather suck air there than fuel.
That filter is lower than the bottom of the fuel tank and so should always be full. If it siphons back to the tank, it proves my case. If there are gear-clamps on it, then there should be two per side with the screwheads rotated 180degrees.
The same goes for the jumper at the fuel sender.
Your problem is most likely caused by fuel percolating into the manifold.

 

[Deano]

I finally figured out what the problem was. Turns out that the firing order is VERY important! I installed a new electronic ignition system from Summit. Still ran like shit. Father in law, who is a longtime MOPAR mechanic, comes over and asks me if I've done anything else to my car. I don't just tell him, I show him. Fire the car up. Ran like shit some more. He starts going over the plug wires and plugs. I had the 6 and 8 plug wires swapped. Also had the distributor an 1/8 turn out of time, which put the wiring one complete lug off. Rerouted said wires and it runs like a new one! Three years after buying the car, I'm finally able to put some real miles and not worry about it.

Before, I would have to drive with both feet, feathering the throttle just to keep it running while I was stopped or slowing down. Now, I'm single footin' it!

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2!
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2!
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2!