HELP- Factory choke on an Edelbrock carb

[slant6billy]

3rd thread today. The nice new Edelbrock Performer carb does not have the electronic choke option. So As most on here saw, I have a box full of bimetal mopar chokes. Has anyone mated a factory style choke to an Edelbrock carb? AND if you get it all connected, does it actually work?

 

[NoCar340]

Looking at a picture of the carb, methinks you'll have to source some linkage from an original Chrysler-issue AFB to make it work, and even then I'm not sure. The choke stat would have to come from an original AFB/AVS application like an early 340 or a 273-4V. It won't have the 12V assist and depending on the intake you're using, the cup for the choke stat may be too far from the carb.

 

[My imp]

Is it a #1407? If so, you can get an electric choke kit for it.

 

[slant6billy]

Thanks guys. The intake is a cast iron 340 from 71 (I think a cuda). I was half tempted to make the choke shaft fit the 1407, or like you suggest order the choke kit- model # 1478. Already have an order for the throttle level adapter #1481. Any suggestions where to pull the voltage signal for the choke? I thought about using the existing electric ceramic resistor on the manifold- I don't think it should get 12 volts directly.

 

[bremereric]

You won't need that resister anymore so if you can source 12vdc with the ignition turned on then it will work.

 

[NoCar340]

Yep, the Edelbrock electric choke kit for your carb uses 12V+, ignition on. What are you using for an adapter plate? The Edelbrock carb won't fit a factory spread-bore intake directly.

 

[slant6billy]

Edelbrock 1 inch adapter plate.

 

[slant6billy]

Just to state the obvious that carb in the pic is the Edelbrock that is coming off and not the brand new one mentioned. It is just for mock up as I put the throttle cable on, size up the choke and figure on what to do with the trans kickdown. If anyone has a clean driverside shot of their carb set up with the auto trans & linkage- please post. I think I'm in the right routing spots for things but perhaps there is a better way.

 

[NoCar340]

You really can't mock anything up without the lever adapter. It's the only thing that actually touches the carburetor itself, and the throttle stud bolts to it. Once you've got the lever adapter installed on the carb and mount the throttle stud to it, it'll all make sense and line up. The kickdown arm goes on the same side of the stud as the throttle and the return springs hook to the short side.

Your choke cable linkage arm is installed upside down, but I'm guessing you already knew that. There's no way you're going to make a factory choke stat work with that setup; you'll need the linkage from a muscle-era AFB if you're determined to make it work. The electric choke kit is less expensive and much easier.

 

[slant6billy]

Just ordered the parts ( e choke, mopar edelbrock adapter, and edelbrock throttle post).

 

[slant6billy]

Well, GOOD NEWS is it goes like RAPED APE. Any thoughts on grabbing the choke 12 volts + off the unused ballast post. That is, if I had a 5 wire box, it would be used, but I'm using a 4 wire chrome box. The directions from Edelbrock state not to connect to the coil. The other post is the Positive + to the coil. On the other side of the ballast - the ignition side is tied together. Is the 5 ohms enough of a separation from the coil? Or should I just grab a fused source under the dash? This is a different ballast from above. This is the one on the firewall.

Second minor issue: Trans link bar. I cannot for the life of me get it set up not to bind. I think the bar was bent by the previous owner of the motor and what it was in. According to him- E body cuda.